Dana 30 Build?

[Boostwerks.com]

Mine ate shafts without any driving like a drunken hillbilly. A lot of wrangler guys run 40's on dana 35's with minimal failures, yet they are still the exception and I wouldn't recommend putting any money into a 35, or a 30 for larger than 35's.

Have you ever stopped to think that maybe YOU are the exception? (not at all saying 40's on a d35 is ok lol)

 

[rockclimber]

I'll happily go on record by saying I would buy a used JK 44 for the front of my XJ before wasting any money on a 60 for anything larger than 35's. Why? Simply because I'm looking at the whole picture, instead of just falling for common internet pipe dreams. Do I need to justify my reasons? No. Do the real life research for YOURSELF, and come to your own conclusions!

Why? Why would you waste time with weaker outers, weak tubes, and a weaker center?

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Why add substantial weight if it's not needed? You are after all rock climbing right? Tubes are a non issue (truss). The revised HP44 center/axles and U joints are more than strong enough for an XJ on 37s. Factory E locker, more ground clearance, easily tucks allowing for more up travel/requires less lift, no need to cut/shorten, availability... need I go on?

 

[Mr.OverKill]

my point is simple.... it isn't any more expensive to build a 60 than it is to build a 44, so if you plan on going big, why waste the time, money and energy in building a 44 when in 1 to 5 years you will probably be building a 60? beef up your 30 till you are ready for the big tires, just save the money and time and build the 60 from the start and save the money you would have spent on the 44

 

[travisk]

What's the weight difference between a 60, 44 and 30?

 

[Mr.OverKill]

What's the weight difference between a 60, 44 and 30?

its un sprung weight, unless you are trying to go fast, it doesn't really matter, I would guess 50 lbs. difference in each in turn

 

[travisk]

its un sprung weight, unless you are trying to go fast, it doesn't really matter

That might be an oversimplification. I could think of plenty of scenarios where hauling an extra 100lbs uphill isn't helpful, sprung or unsprung.

I've never been able to find a good physics-based analysis of sprung vs. unsprung weight off road. Lots of opinions, though.

 

[zachandandy]

How the hell could I be the exception? Even if I drove like an asshole, how does the front break and the widely accepted as weak dana 35 rear hold together? Yes you can polish a 30 to hold up to 35's, but it will still be weaker and cost more than a stock 60. As far as needing to narrow, you don't. As far as limiting uptravel, by maybe an inch due to larger housing? And the stock matching rear axles available for the 30 aren't exactly strong. It's cheaper to go to 1 tons than to polish the stock junk.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

my point is simple.... it isn't any more expensive to build a 60 than it is to build a 44, so if you plan on going big, why waste the time, money and energy in building a 44 when in 1 to 5 years you will probably be building a 60? beef up your 30 till you are ready for the big tires, just save the money and time and build the 60 from the start and save the money you would have spent on the 44

^ This

 

[Lowrange2]

its un sprung weight, unless you are trying to go fast, it doesn't really matter, I would guess 50 lbs. difference in each in turn

Not that I feel like arguing about it but...

A stock Dana 30 weighed in at ~230 pounds fully dressed, a stock Ford Dana 60 weighed in at ~570 pounds fully dressed. I didn't have a 44 to weigh at the time. It's certainly more than a 50 pound difference between each...

I run a built LP44 on 35's that I've yet to break. I must not be doing something right.

 

[offroadman83]

Wow haven't been on this board in ages and somethings never change LOL. I am getting back into XJs as I have been out of em a while. Had 1 ton wranglers, toyota stuff, cherokee on 44/9 and lots of rigs.

Point is you can break anything. I believe 35s can be run plenty safe on a dana 30 and many have here including me. I did break it once when I landed full throttle assault over a hill (good 3 to 5 ft. under tires). I broke the steering, joints and shafts LOL. Basically if you wheel smart a dana 30 will last. On 37s your pushing your luck but hey if thats what you wanna do, go for it. If you got the money build a 60 but be ready to shell out 1000 just for the axle. -------------Kyle

 

[rockclimber]

Not that I feel like arguing about it but...

A stock Dana 30 weighed in at ~230 pounds fully dressed, a stock Ford Dana 60 weighed in at ~570 pounds fully dressed. I didn't have a 44 to weigh at the time. It's certainly more than a 50 pound difference between each...

I run a built LP44 on 35's that I've yet to break. I must not be doing something right.

I agree on the weight thing.

As far as the 44s go. It's tires above 35" that I don't trust them on.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Not that I feel like arguing about it but...

A stock Dana 30 weighed in at ~230 pounds fully dressed, a stock Ford Dana 60 weighed in at ~570 pounds fully dressed. I didn't have a 44 to weigh at the time. It's certainly more than a 50 pound difference between each...

I run a built LP44 on 35's that I've yet to break. I must not be doing something right.

Exactly. For some perspective, it would be like strapping a plate bumper and a winch to your D30. Now picture it moving. :moon:

Just a heads up for those who haven't considered the weight factor.

 

[beer_goggles_009]

One other thing to consider is location and type of wheeling. I see the OP is in the Southeast and alot of the people saying D30 with <35" tires will last are in Cali. Much different wheeling in the those two places.

Throttle is needed in the land of mud and slippy rocks.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

One other thing to consider is location and type of wheeling. I see the OP is in the Southeast and alot of the people saying D30 with <35" tires will last are in Cali. Much different wheeling in the those two places.

Throttle is needed in the land of mud and slippy rocks.

And the hammers, the rubicon, John Bull etc are easier on the D30 than mud and slippery rocks?

 

[beer_goggles_009]

I'm not getting dragged into an argument on what is more difficult or harder on parts. There is not an answer and that is not the point of this thread.

As I said in my last post the wheeling is different. Rigs get built different and the driving techniques are different. And before you ask.... yes I have been wheeling in the Hammers and a few other trails out west and wheel in the southeast quite often.


jim

 

[Vanimal]

Exactly. For some perspective, it would be like strapping a plate bumper and a winch to your D30. Now picture it moving. :moon:

Just a heads up for those who haven't considered the weight factor.

my rig gained about 600lbs when i went from d44's and 35's to a d60, 14b, and 37's. i can say without a doubt that it wheels MUCH better regardless of the weight. wheeling is far less stressfull to boot.

 

[Vanimal]

I'm going OT to make a point...

We have made over 330whp on a stock 1.6L Honda motor...beaten daily for 4 years without issue. How? because we took our time and did it correctly. Countless thousands of other enthusiast's have done the same with some making 500+whp. However, some choose to throw 5K+ into their motors to make the same power simply because the interweb fools told them they needed to do so. Should I have wasted my money as well? It's a common theme I've witnessed over the past 12 years with ALL aspects and facets of motorsports.

I'll happily go on record by saying I would buy a used JK 44 for the front of my XJ before wasting any money on a 60 for anything larger than 35's. Why? Simply because I'm looking at the whole picture, instead of just falling for common internet pipe dreams. Do I need to justify my reasons? No. Do the real life research for YOURSELF, and come to your own conclusions!

Just like Cal had mentioned, if you want to build a 60... all the power to ya! Simply just make sure you've considered all the variables involved before shelling out your hard earned money, as there is a lot more to consider than just the strength of the axle.

i did my research myself in the way of wasting money on a hp d44. and then i built a d60 for half the price and was much happier not having to worry about u joints and ring gears everytime i wheel fairly difficult trails.
If i were to do it over again, i'd continue running my cheaply build d30 (simple locker, chromoly shafts) until i had the ambition to go bigger than 35's and then i'd build a d60.
Pretty sure you're not looking at any pictures aside from what you read on the internet.

 

[rockclimber]

i did my research myself in the way of wasting money on a hp d44. and then i built a d60 for half the price and was much happier not having to worry about u joints and ring gears everytime i wheel fairly difficult trails.
If i were to do it over again, i'd continue running my cheaply build d30 (simple locker, chromoly shafts) until i had the ambition to go bigger than 35's and then i'd build a d60.
Pretty sure you're not looking at any pictures aside from what you read on the internet.

no no... cal said anyone who doesn't think D44s are awesome has never built one!

clearly you must be FOS

.!..!.

 

[cal]

no no... cal said anyone who doesn't think D44s are awesome has never built one!

clearly you must be FOS

.!..!.

No, I was singling you out.