D30 with 36's

[big cherokee]

im runnin a dana 30 hp with 37 and a lockright and yes you brake shafts not a ball joint yet but i just carry extra shafts and take it easy on the shinny pedal.

 

[orvpark]

i'm running some 36" swampers and a lockright, i know it's not ideal but the tires were nearly free. i've ran them on about 5 trips and rode plenty of 3's and a few 4's.

down here our rocks our loose and wet so traction isn't gonna be what breaks things it's sudden traction.

if you are brave (or stupid) enough to do what i'm doing do yourself a favor or two:
weld your caps
buy radials (not as deep tread and weigh quite a bit less)
don't bounce
don't get your steering in a bind (only turn when your rolling)

i've made it so far without breaking anything, when i do buy tires it will be some milder, lighter 35's just for reliability's sake

1/2" isn't gonna get you far

whatever you do carry spare parts and know how to slap them in

 

[rust bucket xj]

well, i run the setup minus the locker, my axle likes to creak alot. One thing you need to do is beef the tierod, i just welded a piece of angle on it, works and was cheap.

One thing alot of people seem to forget is any 35 thats not a tsl aint gonna measure close to a 35 when mounted, especially aired down. TSL do not bulge, and keep the ground clearance. The ujoints wont be the problem if you run 297 with welded caps, shafts prolly wont break, i'd worry about unibearing hubs, and balljoints, they dont last, even on 31s. Rather run 760 joints with welded caps. I am doin it for now but am goin waggy 44 as soon as i can get everythign together for the front leaf swap. Same size joints but reall shafts, real hubs, real balljoints, real bearings, real tubes.

My neighbor has 36 sx on his tjs and they uh destroyed the lockright he had, 2 of them came out in multiple pieces, one was about 100pcs. He has yet to hurt anything else but he is on warn shafts and 760 joints

 

[toyworx]

Super30 will put up with 35's no problem.

I run Q78's which are a little over 35" with a Locker, 27spline Superior Alloy's and CTM's and I bash that thing like a rental and haven't broken anything yet. Then again i'm $1200.00 just into the shafts and CTM's. If i didn't already have the 27 spline locker i would have gone with the 30spline super kit.

 

[Big Red]

Super30 will put up with 35's no problem.

I run Q78's which are a little over 35" with a Locker, 27spline Superior Alloy's and CTM's and I bash that thing like a rental and haven't broken anything yet. Then again i'm $1200.00 just into the shafts and CTM's. If i didn't already have the 27 spline locker i would have gone with the 30spline super kit.

I'm so confused!!! I have a rev 30 with 4.56 gears and a arb and a rear xj dana 44 with 4.56 gears and a detroit and it has held up very good with no breakage on the rubicon and fordyce. I do watch it though and only use the arb when I need it, otherwise I keep the front end open.

I just got a hp44/9" for a pretty low price, the 44 has a lock rite and 3.50 gears, the 9"has a full detroit and 3.50 gears. I'm debating as to whether I should put these new axles under my jeep or just simply get alloy shafts with good u-joints for the 30? I run 35" pro comp xts and it has held up well to that and the hp 44 doesn't give you anymore u-joint strength that a 30 does and that is what breaks most of the time anyways.

Do you guys think I should spend the $ to get these axles geared to 5.38/5.43 and run them or sell them? The hp 44 has the rare leaf springs so I don't need to do the ford radius arms, I was thinking front leafs, but the guy that is might be setting up my gears told me to stay with the stock 4 link due to the unibody. I know I want to, but I'm on a tight budget right now. The 30 isn't that bad. I just use my xj to wheel, so it doesn't see lots of street miles.
Troy

 

[hjeepxj]

I'm so confused!!! I have a rev 30 with 4.56 gears and a arb and a rear xj dana 44 with 4.56 gears and a detroit and it has held up very good with no breakage on the rubicon and fordyce. I do watch it though and only use the arb when I need it, otherwise I keep the front end open.

I just got a hp44/9" for a pretty low price, the 44 has a lock rite and 3.50 gears, the 9"has a full detroit and 3.50 gears. I'm debating as to whether I should put these new axles under my jeep or just simply get alloy shafts with good u-joints for the 30? I run 35" pro comp xts and it has held up well to that and the hp 44 doesn't give you anymore u-joint strength that a 30 does and that is what breaks most of the time anyways.

Do you guys think I should spend the $ to get these axles geared to 5.38/5.43 and run them or sell them? The hp 44 has the rare leaf springs so I don't need to do the ford radius arms, I was thinking front leafs, but the guy that is might be setting up my gears told me to stay with the stock 4 link due to the unibody. I know I want to, but I'm on a tight budget right now. The 30 isn't that bad. I just use my xj to wheel, so it doesn't see lots of street miles.
Troy

D30's cant go past 4.88 gearing.

I guess you just answered your own question.

 

[Big Red]

D30's cant go past 4.88 gearing.

I guess you just answered your own question.

I knew that, I meant the hp44/9" gearing. With 35" tires, 4.88 are more ideal, but my 4.56 gears work too. Just getting to the trail and up the mountain passes takes a little more gas.

 

[hjeepxj]

I knew that, I meant the hp44/9" gearing. With 35" tires, 4.88 are more ideal, but my 4.56 gears work too. Just getting to the trail and up the mountain passes takes a little more gas.

Touche.

 

[Big Red]

Touche.

:laugh3: :wave: Some stuff is insufficient, others adequate, while still others overkill. I like to lean towards overkill if possible to reduce costly and time consuming trail repairs. Just with all the opinions out there and every alloy manufacture stating they have the best stuff, it nice to have this site where we can get our ideas out there and cut through all the b.s. :wave:
Troy