Custom rear bumper build

Yeah, theres vertical pieces between the two mounts every 6" on the inside of the bumper. theres some added side bracing and some gussets on the receiver in there too. i used a different hitch pin and kept it as short as possible cause of the tight fit back there.
 
Do you think you could tell me how much material and what type that you used just to make the bumper to this point. how much and what type of plate, how much and what type of rectangular tubing. I want to make the bumper that you have made to this point with some minor differences and just want to go to the metal shop once. thanks for your time

Rick
 
oh and one other thing, would you have took some large angle iron and reinforced the unitbody while you had it all cut apart that way it wouldnt get bent up? Seems like it would be a good idea if I have it all off to go ahead and do this, what do you think?
 
truck7575 said:
Do you think you could tell me how much material and what type that you used just to make the bumper to this point. how much and what type of plate, how much and what type of rectangular tubing.
Click to expand...

I started with 10ft of 2" x 4" x 0.25" rect tubing and used roughly 8ft. I started with a 1' x 10' piece of 0.25" plate and used like 7ft.


truck7575 said:
oh and one other thing, would you have took some large angle iron and reinforced the unitbody while you had it all cut apart that way it wouldnt get bent up? Seems like it would be a good idea if I have it all off to go ahead and do this, what do you think?
Click to expand...

I could have but i didnt at the time, the jeep is currently getting everything plated for the 1ton swap now anyways. having the gas tank out also makes it ALOT easier to work on anything back there.
 
I wonder why everyone seems to think 0.25 2x4 is necessary for sleeving the rear unitbody to make bumper mounts. It seems to me that you would use thinner 2x4 steel because as others have said the unitbody would bend before the 2x4 steel well dont you want it the other way around dont you want the 2x4 to bend before the unitbody? why not use 3/16 instead of 0.25 or even 1/8 u can replace the 2x4 but not the unitbody plus it would be easier to get the nut strip in and all while not losing that much strength. Just seems silly to do all that then hit some thing and tear up the unitbody. anybody feeling me on this?
 
truck7575 said:
anybody feeling me on this?
Click to expand...

nope, cause 0.250" wall is awesome and i dont wanna trust a d-ring tab welded to 0.125". when you think of rear framerails bending on impact, its usually a stocker hitch that gets bent downwards cause its under the rail and causes a ton of damage. with the mounts inside the rail, its not really gunna go anywhere. once the rect tubing is bolted to the unibdoy, neither is gunna wanna bend, itll jsut find somewhere else to bend (most likely further down the rail)
 
I still don't understand, you never want to attach something stronger to something weaker if the something weaker you dont want broke. You can destroy your entire jeep but once the unitbody is done your done. So attaching super strong tubing to a weaker frame rail still doesnt make any sense to me. Now if you ran the super strong tube all the way down the inner of the unitbody I think that makes sense or if you have your entire unitbody sleeved with 0.25 plate then I can see your argument for the 0.25 tube there but I dont understand using it with the stock unitbody. Thats why they build all the crumple auto body panels today... they want the body to crumple and absorb the impact before the frame and your head does.
 
He said he was plating the frame for a full ton axle swap, yeah?
So the entire unibody is going to get something from 10 GA to 3/16" plate thrown on it.
Also, take into consideration that he isn't bolting this (massive, sexy) bumper into sheet metal. Well, he is, but the sheet metal is forming a well boxed structure - the uni body. If the rig gets plated, those bumper mounts should spread the load well enough to avoid any breakage -- bumper, bolts or body.
Unless the legends of his breaking abilities are true, that is...
 
truck7575 said:
I still don't understand, you never want to attach something stronger to something weaker if the something weaker you dont want broke. You can destroy your entire jeep but once the unitbody is done your done. So attaching super strong tubing to a weaker frame rail still doesnt make any sense to me. Now if you ran the super strong tube all the way down the inner of the unitbody I think that makes sense or if you have your entire unitbody sleeved with 0.25 plate then I can see your argument for the 0.25 tube there but I dont understand using it with the stock unitbody. Thats why they build all the crumple auto body panels today... they want the body to crumple and absorb the impact before the frame and your head does.
Click to expand...

Why would i wanna make the bumper thinner and weaker the the framerails? that defeats the point of the bumper. crumple zones on a jeep are stupid. my buddy had a ARB bumper that had those stupid crumple zone mounting plates, worst thing ever!!! the rear framerails/bumper is about the only area of the jeep that was still pretty straight after years of wheelin the piss outta a unibody with no plating.



yossarian19 said:
He said he was plating the frame for a full ton axle swap, yeah?
So the entire unibody is going to get something from 10 GA to 3/16" plate thrown on it.
Also, take into consideration that he isn't bolting this (massive, sexy) bumper into sheet metal. Well, he is, but the sheet metal is forming a well boxed structure - the uni body. If the rig gets plated, those bumper mounts should spread the load well enough to avoid any breakage -- bumper, bolts or body.
Unless the legends of his breaking abilities are true, that is...
Click to expand...

thanks for the complaments!! yes, the jeep is currently getting fully plated anyways too which will just help even more. i also shoulda mentioned that i have a gas skid that the bumper bolts all passed thru. this created a gaint area of plate that is all sandwiching the framerail.


rihuld.jpg
 
Foxwar71: Thanks for doing this writeup! I chose to do my bumper mounts the same way.
What do you think about tapping the 2x4 itself, rather than messing with nutplates?

Mine is already done, but I figured it might be easier on the next guy.
 
souske said:
What do you think about tapping the 2x4 itself, rather than messing with nutplates?
Click to expand...

Thats a good idea too, I just didnt feel like messing around with taps at the time. the only issue i can think of would be only having a 1/4" thickness for threads. ideally with a 1/2" bolt, youd want at least 3/8-1/2" thickness of threads to take full advantage of the fasteners strength.
 
foxwar71 said:
Thats a good idea too, I just didnt feel like messing around with taps at the time. the only issue i can think of would be only having a 1/4" thickness for threads. ideally with a 1/2" bolt, youd want at least 3/8-1/2" thickness of threads to take full advantage of the fasteners strength.
Click to expand...
X2, and it's easy to tack a couple nuts down, so why not?

I wouldn't trust 1/4" worth of threads on a bolt that size.
 
How long were the 2x4 peices that went into the framerail? Im going to be ordering metal, and was wondering how much to get just to do those mounts?
 
I think this bumper build was done well. If you cage the jeep and run the cage mounts down to the end of the bumper insert tube ie 2X4 .25 then hopefully the unibody will not bend on impact. Lets face it if some one smashes into the back of any vehicle at a high rate of speed 35mph plus you are screwed and so is the vehicle and at that point the vehicle is a loss and you build all over again and do something better. So great job man I could not have done it better myself.
 
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