Cruiser's RENIX diagnostics thread

[Ecomike]

Not sure what that is?

This is the new style that has a connector built in (new style conn), the old style had a pigtail wires then an old style GM weather pack connector.

http://www.injector.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=65&idcategory=12

I am told this HO model (91-2001) works if you do the connector-wire swap.

The Renix OEM MAT (or IAT) is brass body in the firewall-driver's side of the intake manifold, behind the throttle body.

 

[JoshInReno]

Not sure what that is?

This is the new style that has a connector built in (new style conn), the old style had a pigtail wires then an old style GM weather pack connector.

http://www.injector.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=65&idcategory=12

I am told this HO model (91-2001) works if you do the connector-wire swap.

The Renix OEM MAT (or IAT) is brass body in the firewall-driver's side of the intake manifold, behind the throttle body.

Think I found it.

2.5ohms and falling. It is still in the manifold (warm, but not hot). I may have to wait until tomorrow to pull it out.

 

[cruiser54]

Resistance at B with key off: 0.7
Wiggle test: 0.8

Ground is good.

Key on -

Reference: 4.9v (A to B)
Output: 0.64v (B to C)

So if I understand the directions correctly (I sure hope so), my output needs to be adjusted to 0.83v? 4.90 x .17 = 0.833

Pretty close to that.

Remove your IAT sensor. I'll bet it's all glommed up with carbon. Gentlly clean it off with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. Not yours.

 

[Ecomike]

Think I found it.

2.5ohms and falling. It is still in the manifold (warm, but not hot). I may have to wait until tomorrow to pull it out.

Was the MAT disconnected? Was that across the two sensor wires only?

If yes it is totally fubared!!!!! Dead, defunct, toast!!!!

 

[JoshInReno]

Suggestions on how to remove IAT? Doesn't want to budge - can't seem to get a good angle on it.

 

[Ecomike]

Use a presoak like BP Blaster to soak the thread area first, let it set and soak agood 30 minutes. Do this twice if needed. A closed end wrench works best. If it is really bad, just cut the wires off at the sensor, save the wires-connector, and use a socket and wratchet to get it off.

 

[JoshInReno]

Was the MAT disconnected? Was that across the two sensor wires only?

If yes it is totally fubared!!!!! Dead, defunct, toast!!!!

If I am doing it correctly and I got the right sensor?

 

[Ecomike]

I can't see the sensor in the photo, but the rest looks right. You failed to mention the k in front of the ohm symbol (Omega), which means x1000, so that is 3290 ohms if you have the rest of the meter controls and connections set right?

That is a far cry from 3.29 ohms!!!!

40 F is 7500 ohms
70 F should read 3400 ohms
100 F is 1600 ohms
160 F is 450 ohms

That is the ambient air temp of the air the sensor is seeing pass by the sensor.

 

[JoshInReno]

IAT is out. Filthy. Cleaning now.

 

[JoshInReno]

As clean as I could get it without putting in a sonic cleaner. I just might do that though...

Part numbers on the sensor: 2382 323001 902

 

[cruiser54]

That's as clean as I've ever gotten them.

 

[JoshInReno]

Resistance of 3.300k at 65 degrees in my shop.

Held the sensor in front a space heater for a second and the resistance started to drop like a rock.

Re-installed in Jeep. Let come up to temperature and shut if off when hit 1500rpm.

Problem still exists. :helpme:

 

[Ecomike]

Vacuum leak, intake manifold that opens up larger as it gets hot? Is it repeatable?

Try disconnecting the TPS, then try disconnecting the O2 sensor, to see if the idle is normal!!! Do the same with the IAT. IT will not run at all with the MAP, so don't try that. Also, if it idles at say 800 rpm at start up, disconnect the IAC, let the engine get hot and see what the idle does, and report the results here.

 

[JoshInReno]

Vacuum leak, intake manifold that opens up larger as it gets hot?

This is about the only thing left I can think of. I haven't found a vacuum leak ANYWHERE in the lines.

Everytime I touch the thing, the situation gets worse. It used to idle in drive at 900rpm and now it's at 1100rpm. Idle in park started out at 1200rpm and now it's at 2000rpm!

I'll start pulling connectors soon - tied up at work now that the boss is back in town.

 

[JoshInReno]

Pulled connectors while running:

IAT: no change.
TPS: no change.
IAC: no change.

Have not yet pulled O2 connector yet. Will let come up to temp later today with IAC connector pulled. I will post that result when I do.

 

[Ecomike]

Pulled connectors while running:

IAT: no change.
TPS: no change.
IAC: no change.

Have not yet pulled O2 connector yet. Will let come up to temp later today with IAC connector pulled. I will post that result when I do.

I need you to pull just the IAC connector only now, right after a cold start!!! Then run it up to full temperature. If the idle goes high it IS A VACUUM LEAK that gets worse as it gets hot!!!!

If the idle is nearly the same hot as when you pulled the IAC controller connection, then the problem is an ECU ground or sensor or wire fault!!!

There are only two ways the idle can increase, one is if the ECU tells the IAC to open!!!! That can only be caused by faulty data to the ECU!!!! Thus wire problems or bad sensors.

The other is a vacuum leak that increases with temperature!!!

 

[JoshInReno]

I need you to pull just the IAC connector only now, right after a cold start!!! Then run it up to full temperature. If the idle goes high it IS A VACUUM LEAK that gets worse as it gets hot!!!!

If the idle is nearly the same hot as when you pulled the IAC controller connection, then the problem is an ECU ground or sensor or wire fault!!!

There are only two ways the idle can increase, one is if the ECU tells the IAC to open!!!! That can only be caused by faulty data to the ECU!!!! Thus wire problems or bad sensors.

The other is a vacuum leak that increases with temperature!!!

Pulled connector after starting cold engine.

2000rpm when up to temp.

I cannot find any vacuum leaks, but it is hard to listen for one when engine is sitting at 2000rpm.

 

[JoshInReno]

Is there a resistance test I can do on my new IAC that I just installed? I wonder if I got a bad one.

 

[cruiser54]

Pulled connector after starting cold engine.

2000rpm when up to temp.

I cannot find any vacuum leaks, but it is hard to listen for one when engine is sitting at 2000rpm.

Vacuum leaks need to be diagnosed with a liquid, like throttle body cleaner. Spray it where you suspect the leaks are/could be. When you hit the leak you will know.

 

[JoshInReno]

Vacuum leaks need to be diagnosed with a liquid, like throttle body cleaner. Spray it where you suspect the leaks are/could be. When you hit the leak you will know.

Is there a diagram somewhere of all the possible spray points?