CPS testing procedure 97 XJ sport 4.0

[Ecomike]

It is a common point for ground failure of the sensor grounds

 

[DTW97XJ]

Yeah I see it there, but I only have 1 set of wires and 1 ring. Are all those grounds coming from that general area, from those harnesses?

 

[Sidewinder CC]

Here's some pics of your grounds. The G101 pic is of a '99 XJ, the 97 will have the alternator ground (G103) there as well.

G100:

.
G101:

.
G102:

.
G106 (Left inner fender near PCM):

Radio Noise Suppression bonding strap:

 

[Sidewinder CC]

Ok, I have replaced the CPS with a genuine part, I was able to find one locally. It seems to have helped with the cranking situation, no more long crank/no start issues. I have also replaced the TPS with a genuine part. My issue of accelerating is still somewhat there. When the trans auto shifts through gears while slowing down or speeding up there is a delay in acceleration for example but the RPMs will rise, trans will kick in, the I can feel it accelerate. Its almost like there is something holding the jeep back until it finally gears itself properly then the RPMs drop back down to normal.

For the transmission shifting issues, you may want to adjust your Throttle Valve Cable to see if it helps.

Open this link. Click on the images to make them larger.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5602547

It may help to print these images and take them to the Jeep when making the adjustment(s).

 

[Ecomike]

Awesome photos, I see a lot changed since Renix rigs were built. That's a lot of grounds.

 

[DTW97XJ]

Yes! These are great! The G106 looks questionable Ill clean it up and see if it improves anything. I did use a meter to check continuity to ground on chassis and it seems to beep at me, ill clean them up nonetheless. Ill let you know what I find.

 

[Ecomike]

Beeping does not count. You need to get a real reading of less than one ohm from the ground to the battery negative post.

A beep could be 199 ohms which is way WAY too high

 

[DTW97XJ]

Ok, good to know man, thanks for the heads up I will do another run down with the meter.

 

[four_shot]

While puttering around, check the trans fluid level.

Some times not enough (or too much) fluid can cause all kinds of gremlins. Be sure to check with the engine running on level ground.

 

[DTW97XJ]

Well, I have probed my ground and on a 200 ohm scale I am getting 00.3 for all reading. I checked everything you have pictures above, literally probing the wires to ensure they were being testing before connection. I have adjusted my cable 3 times and the brake like switch as that could affect the TC.

 

[DTW97XJ]

So today while running some errands with the wife I got a CEL. I immediately did the key trick and was given a 12, 45...and then the 55 which of course is end of codes. On a 97 I have read this 45 can be either NSS or lockup solenoid. I am considering pulling the NSS to clean it but not certain this will resolve anything. Many say this code is too generic to really determine but just wanted to know what you all thought. Still having this strange shifting issue, RPMs rising until trans kicks into gear than they drop back down. Thanks.

 

[Ecomike]

So today while running some errands with the wife I got a CEL. I immediately did the key trick and was given a 12, 45...and then the 55 which of course is end of codes. On a 97 I have read this 45 can be either NSS or lockup solenoid. I am considering pulling the NSS to clean it but not certain this will resolve anything. Many say this code is too generic to really determine but just wanted to know what you all thought. Still having this strange shifting issue, RPMs rising until trans kicks into gear than they drop back down. Thanks.

That sounds like the TC lock up solenoid or wiring to it (including the ground) from the TCU to the solenoid, making the TC cycle the lock randomly. The solenoid by itself (isolated)should read about 14 ohms IIRC. It think it can be tested with the wiring at the TCU for that 14 ohm reading. Try it hot and cold, it may be bad hot and good cold.

 

[DTW97XJ]

I tested terminals 11,12 and 13 with respect to ground on 200 ohm scale, getting a reading of 14.5 for each. That was while jeep was still quite warm. This is whats so confusing because I was almost certain it had to be the lockup solenoid as well.

 

[DTW97XJ]

I went ahead and ordered some new solenoids, I figure I might as well swap them out while I am doing a fluid/screen change. Not sure this will change much but I figure what the hell, why not?

 

[Ecomike]

Is the brake switch going bad????

 

[DTW97XJ]

It is possible, however I have adjusted it twice. Ill see if I can determine a test procedure for it.

 

[Digger87xj]

a simple resistance check though the tcc circuit of the brake switch will tell you if it's bad. Anything over an ohm and I'd toss it.

 

[Sidewinder CC]

It is possible, however I have adjusted it twice. Ill see if I can determine a test procedure for it.

How did you 'adjust' it. There's really no method of adjusting the brake lamp switch. Once the plunger ratchets in to place it can't be moved.

If your brake pedal bushing is good just replace the switch. They're cheap.

 

[DTW97XJ]

Where do I test connector at TCC, which pins? The plunger can be pulled out and it ratchets, thus extending the range of the plunger. I was under the impression this was an adjustment.?

 

[Sidewinder CC]

Where do I test connector at TCC, which pins? The plunger can be pulled out and it ratchets, thus extending the range of the plunger. I was under the impression this was an adjustment.?

If the plunger can be pulled out it's probably defective. I have an old switch that was once installed and the plunger cannot be pulled out to its original position.

Here's the test procedures. Pins 1 and 2 are the brake lamp switch contacts that the TCM uses for the TC lock circuit (and the transmission interlock solenoid circuit).