LYKOS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bent Mountain Va
Yes, yet another coolant thread. I can't find a thread with my specific combination of problems and I don't know if they are related or not. I would truly appreciate some experienced opinions.
System specs:
All components less than two years old, most less than 12 months
Runs in the 195* to 208* degree range on highway, hard pulls, city driving, it's consistent at these temps.
CSF 3 row installed six months ago
e fans installed this weekend
new pump
new tstat two months ago (195*)
new tstat housing
Good flush
new hoses last year
rad cap last year (16#)
Running Rotella ELC
Heater core has been flushed repeatedly and flows well when flushed.
Two problems:
First, the heat doesnt work. It gets luke warm (90* at the vent) at best. Slightly warmer on hard pull. Blender door is functioning properly and blend door motor has been removed cleaned and greased and works fine.
Upper radiator hose gets nice and hot, the temp switch for the fans kicks on and off as it should (it's mounted in the upper heater hose). Checked via torque II app from the ECM.
Lower hose does not get as hot, not nearly as hot. Talyn suggested checking that the hard line is not blocked and it is not.
Is it possible the heater core can have plates or tubes blocked but still flows well? As in the coolant, or water in a flush, simply follows a different path around the blockage? I am admitting I am truly ignorant as to how a heater core is designed and how coolant flows through it.
I have NO idea WTF is going on with this. HELP it's cold!!!
Next problem:
Some coolant loss of about an overflow jug about every 6000 miles. I live at the top of a 7 or 8% grade. When I stop the Jeep at the top I can hear some bubbling and smell coolant however I cannot see any signs of a leak. Just before I installed the CSF I had a new stock radiator and it did the same thing.
Yes, it's a 0331 head, no there is no overheating, no milky oil, no residue under the oil cap and my oil analysis comes back fine. I am not stupid enough to dismiss the possibility of a cracked head BUT there are no signs of it so far.
I'm thinking replace the radiator cap before I go and buy a coolant pressure system tester.
C'mon guys, I know you love a challenge. What do you think? What would you check next?
System specs:
All components less than two years old, most less than 12 months
Runs in the 195* to 208* degree range on highway, hard pulls, city driving, it's consistent at these temps.
CSF 3 row installed six months ago
e fans installed this weekend
new pump
new tstat two months ago (195*)
new tstat housing
Good flush
new hoses last year
rad cap last year (16#)
Running Rotella ELC
Heater core has been flushed repeatedly and flows well when flushed.
Two problems:
First, the heat doesnt work. It gets luke warm (90* at the vent) at best. Slightly warmer on hard pull. Blender door is functioning properly and blend door motor has been removed cleaned and greased and works fine.
Upper radiator hose gets nice and hot, the temp switch for the fans kicks on and off as it should (it's mounted in the upper heater hose). Checked via torque II app from the ECM.
Lower hose does not get as hot, not nearly as hot. Talyn suggested checking that the hard line is not blocked and it is not.
Is it possible the heater core can have plates or tubes blocked but still flows well? As in the coolant, or water in a flush, simply follows a different path around the blockage? I am admitting I am truly ignorant as to how a heater core is designed and how coolant flows through it.
I have NO idea WTF is going on with this. HELP it's cold!!!
Next problem:
Some coolant loss of about an overflow jug about every 6000 miles. I live at the top of a 7 or 8% grade. When I stop the Jeep at the top I can hear some bubbling and smell coolant however I cannot see any signs of a leak. Just before I installed the CSF I had a new stock radiator and it did the same thing.
Yes, it's a 0331 head, no there is no overheating, no milky oil, no residue under the oil cap and my oil analysis comes back fine. I am not stupid enough to dismiss the possibility of a cracked head BUT there are no signs of it so far.
I'm thinking replace the radiator cap before I go and buy a coolant pressure system tester.
C'mon guys, I know you love a challenge. What do you think? What would you check next?
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