Colorado B/S Thread

i should add i planned on burning outside in with cooling in between. after tacking. burning into the pumkin last, the only plan i had was preheating and wrapping it to cool.
 
trippled said:
I'm gonna have to weigh my junk when it's done. But I think I'll be close to 5000ish. Or I could be completely wrong...
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That's about what my xj weighed .it was 5600lbs with my. Brother and I in it ... 40 inch spare on an mrw ...and tools . It has to weight around 5500 dry now ..
 
Took cleavland rock on the money side in the rain on the 4th . Of all the rigs there on 40s and 42s and one extremely bad ass willys on mogs and 54 mickeys the iron curtain and the willys were the only two to climb the money side however it was raining when stickys cleaned cleavland...i will never go back to dot rubber... I never did get video on the way up , but we never planned to come back down but after going up the rest of little rock obstacles and bull shitting with the group of new friends we decided to come back down...lol... I ended up dropping my passenger tire on the wrong line off the face of cleavland put the stinger and throttle to 100% use on a vertical stand came down tested out every weld and mount on the rear as thousands of pounds of rig returned to ground ...lol... I put my lap belt and harness on just before coming down . Got that video on my buddy's phone which I'll share when it's posted. The drop for me was better than going up I wasn't worried about going up coming down is full commitment to gravity .
 
Going to order the new exhaust this week to replace the cracked manifold. My under hood temps are so hot they make everything painful to the touch even the struts are so heat soaked they hurt to touch and they are not even really under the hood they are just getting got from the towers collecting heat . I though about the the exhaust manifold leak and it is bellowing out up at an angle right inti the bay not down, so I'm thinking a lot of this hear soak might be from this super heated exhaust being pumped out of this crack. Any way I'm going to send the struts in for a go through for seals but won't run them until I get the exhaust fixed and engine bay temps down since I think the heat may be killing seals .
 
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10217481708582535&id=1470615178&sfnsn=mo

I had almost 9 inches of shock shaft showing on these struts rear is supposed to be 5-6 front only 4.5 but they tend to lose ride height so I left them high. The excessive heat up front + altitude tends make them rise...lol... but anyway made for a great test of the rear mounts . This was more fun than going up which was uneventful.
 
Are the links to my buddy's Facebook page not letting folks view them ? I'm not used to linking video especially to another person's page . The HC video he took he erased much of it trying to edit it why I don't know since there wasn't a lot of dead time on any obstacle not even going up cleavland which he forgot to record...lol... but the wheel stand is reasonably decent it's a real stand not a tire raise...completely vertical nosedown 6'clock ass up a 1200'clock .

I ask because one of the guys mentioned this on our tuners page.
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
i should add i planned on burning outside in with cooling in between. after tacking. burning into the pumkin last, the only plan i had was preheating and wrapping it to cool.
Click to expand...

Pretty much how I did it... just added some post heat so that it could cool at a slower rate. Not sure if it was needed, but no cracks!
 
Gotta say...the more time goes on...the more I can't farkin stand "Jeep" people. The OGs are still fine, but good god the amount of butthurt and trash talk by "Jeep" people about the new Bronco is asinine. Toyota people used to be bad...but hell I'd almost take the overly confident Toyota Overlander person over the overly inflated ego Jeep "offroader" anymore.
 
67626
 
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:roflmao:

LOL well played sir!
:patriot:
 
The gentle sound of taps is playing for the fallen emissions equipment that now will be put in storage.

Truck runs better in most everyway with all the emissions off and the EFI live tuning . A flu pro straight pipe to the exhaust tip replaced the cat and DPF it's louder but not so loud with Windows up you would want to plug your ears ... but a stab of the fuel pedal is very authoritative now as is the exhaust brake sound .
 
Engine noise is hard to pin point when you have no real muffling system on your 4.0 . Anywho the sound I thought was exhaust which did lead me to finding a cracked manifold and is probably why my under hood temps are higher than normal is probably not my engine noise. I noticed going into reverse the noise will go away and sometimes stall goimg drive to reverse it also likes to change its idle... so either I have loose bolts on converter/flywheel or the flexplate possibly cracked. I also need to make sure my bell house to block are not loose again it did that b4 but made no noise but would stall going drive to reverse.

I don't think the noise is internal I suspect the noise is there between the trans and motor ...lol...I hope it's motha cracked plate because o have pull that entire trans to put anew one on .
 
I bet I'm going to kick myself in the ass. I had purchased torque converter from some shop can't recall off Sheridan and i76 for the transmission that was sent with the xj bit turned out to be a 21spline unit and I got a new trans with converter and killed it due to not flushing heat exchanger which caused it to run hot and killed the input seal...lol... so I put the current aw4 in but figured I'd pit that remanufactured converter in that I paid $150 for, well I'm pretty sure that converter is making my noise which means I'll need to pull the entire f-ing trans to swap it out...lol... I can guarantee had I just left the converter on the trans that came with it that it would still be ok ... huuuuuuuh ! It was pretty easy to pull the aw4 out of the xj when it had leafs and no belly skid or suspension cross members welded in the middle now it's shit show .
 
Thinking about the jeeps idle pattern of idling up and down like timing issues along with the weird crank times sometimes starting right up others not so much I'm probably going to find my...fkexplate... cracked up towards the middle as I'm betting it's moving around throwing the CPS/timing off ...lol... still the same Bullshit job as the converter having to pull everything to get to it...a 5 gallon can of gas and a match ;-)
 
Need to get my under hood temps down to stop heat soaking the struts and steering. I'm not sure how much the exhaust leak contributes to the heat but I Need to fix that first to see ... The steering gets hot enough to puke fluid out so the pump isn't long for the world running those temps I have a 14 dual pass on it , but I think moving up to a 2.75 Cylinder is probably going to happen since it takes less pressure to move the tires with the bigger cylinder and should reduce temps . I just can't run a trail without cooking the fluid and puking it out .
 
1-tonxj said:
Need to get my under hood temps down to stop heat soaking the struts and steering. I'm not sure how much the exhaust leak contributes to the heat but I Need to fix that first to see ... The steering gets hot enough to puke fluid out so the pump isn't long for the world running those temps I have a 14 dual pass on it , but I think moving up to a 2.75 Cylinder is probably going to happen since it takes less pressure to move the tires with the bigger cylinder and should reduce temps . I just can't run a trail without cooking the fluid and puking it out .
Click to expand...

You slipping George! You won't have underhood temps, if you don't have a hood, just saying... ;)
 
anyone know if the cheap H/F style bearing pullers are worth a damn on a carrier?

im torn between cutting old ones off/ buying new bearings to make some set ups and pulling the current and using those.
 
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