4x4JeePmaNthINg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
-
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Colorado B/S Thread
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
- Location
- Colorado
Green2door
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
The Colorado BS thread
Anyone know a good metal supply shop in the springs? Need to patch a crack on the frame and build some type of bracing for my rear shock mounts. The only places I've found I'm required to buy wayyyy more than I need.
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Anyone know a good metal supply shop in the springs? Need to patch a crack on the frame and build some type of bracing for my rear shock mounts. The only places I've found I'm required to buy wayyyy more than I need.
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Re: The Colorado BS thread
Just ask to look through their drops and see what you can find.
Just ask to look through their drops and see what you can find.
Green2door
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
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Ya that's what I've been doing. No luck so far though.
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trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Glaser off 31st and hwy 24. Nice people, been going there for years. They have a good cut section to pick from too
Glaser off 31st and hwy 24. Nice people, been going there for years. They have a good cut section to pick from too
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Needs to pick up new batteries to replace the two new yellows that were stolen with my XJ last year. Getting a great deal on them so it hurts less than it could . I'm going with 3 batteries since I need them to weld with in emergency and I need the amp reserve for the subwoofers that will be going where the back seat was ... don't ask why that much woofer in a trail rig ...lol...I just can't fit them in my Dodge and don't want them in my commander just to be stolen while parked , so they are going in the beast.
Needs to pick up new batteries to replace the two new yellows that were stolen with my XJ last year. Getting a great deal on them so it hurts less than it could . I'm going with 3 batteries since I need them to weld with in emergency and I need the amp reserve for the subwoofers that will be going where the back seat was ... don't ask why that much woofer in a trail rig ...lol...I just can't fit them in my Dodge and don't want them in my commander just to be stolen while parked , so they are going in the beast.
4x4JeePmaNthINg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Finally looking at the hell I found a few months ago, makes me feel sick.
If I took the head off to peak inside am I doing any diservice to a shop looking over the block?
At this point I assume the crank is garbage.
Finally looking at the hell I found a few months ago, makes me feel sick.
If I took the head off to peak inside am I doing any diservice to a shop looking over the block?
At this point I assume the crank is garbage.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
So I assume the crank was supposed to be ground and the rods reconditioned? Looks like they didn't mike the crank/rods and plastigage it when putting it back together. Poor workmanship. The crank may be able to be simply polished, but if it wasn't ground enough, the grinding should clean it up.
Notice that the babbit bearing material wasn't wiped off by the crank but rather squeezed out the sides.
This can also happen if they didn't use any assembly lube and installed the crank dry. That is why I always spin the oil pump with a drill and cycle the crank several revolutions before starting up first time.
So I assume the crank was supposed to be ground and the rods reconditioned? Looks like they didn't mike the crank/rods and plastigage it when putting it back together. Poor workmanship. The crank may be able to be simply polished, but if it wasn't ground enough, the grinding should clean it up.
Notice that the babbit bearing material wasn't wiped off by the crank but rather squeezed out the sides.
This can also happen if they didn't use any assembly lube and installed the crank dry. That is why I always spin the oil pump with a drill and cycle the crank several revolutions before starting up first time.
- Location
- In a strange land
Re: The Colorado BS thread
If I am remembering right this is your original motor with several hundred K on the clock. If so, then that crank is not junk. If original and as of yet untouched then it should clean up at 0.010" undersized. This is why they make undersized bearings. An untouched crank should be able to be turned at least once. Going to 0.020" undersized is less desirable, but still done on a regular basis.
The real question is what happened to oil flow for those journals. That will take more disassembly and poking and prodding to find out.
Just note that what you have on the stand is not a lost cause. That is all rebuildable. But don't let it turn into a rusty mess. Keep all the parts in their respective orders (like which bearing caps go with which journals) and keep it out of the weather.
If I am remembering right this is your original motor with several hundred K on the clock. If so, then that crank is not junk. If original and as of yet untouched then it should clean up at 0.010" undersized. This is why they make undersized bearings. An untouched crank should be able to be turned at least once. Going to 0.020" undersized is less desirable, but still done on a regular basis.
The real question is what happened to oil flow for those journals. That will take more disassembly and poking and prodding to find out.
Just note that what you have on the stand is not a lost cause. That is all rebuildable. But don't let it turn into a rusty mess. Keep all the parts in their respective orders (like which bearing caps go with which journals) and keep it out of the weather.
4x4JeePmaNthINg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Tom nobody went through the engine, I started disassembly for a further look into the motor.
Anak you are correct, 220,000 before I found sizeable shavings in the pan and started down the motor swap journey.
I had time now that most of my gremlins with the swap are being found, so I pulled the crank and rod caps for a look, ide like to pull the valve head and take a look.
Thanks for the advice, good to know it's not completely a paperweight
Tom nobody went through the engine, I started disassembly for a further look into the motor.
Anak you are correct, 220,000 before I found sizeable shavings in the pan and started down the motor swap journey.
I had time now that most of my gremlins with the swap are being found, so I pulled the crank and rod caps for a look, ide like to pull the valve head and take a look.
Thanks for the advice, good to know it's not completely a paperweight
Last edited:
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
In that case, mike the journals and see if you can remove the crud with a leather belt and some cerium oxide. You may be able to just put in some new bearings. Too bad I am not back in Colorado or I would help.
In that case, mike the journals and see if you can remove the crud with a leather belt and some cerium oxide. You may be able to just put in some new bearings. Too bad I am not back in Colorado or I would help.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Any thoughts on the newer direct injected 5.3l L83 v8 ? It's rated at 355/380 on gas and 380/416 on e85 . These are easily had at low miles and cheap just like the old 5.3 and 6.0 were when they were relevant .I don't know much about the motor for swapping vs a older 5.3 . I'm going to be picking up a drivetrain for swapping next year because that's the logical conclusion to this build up vs a stock 4.0 .
Any thoughts on the newer direct injected 5.3l L83 v8 ? It's rated at 355/380 on gas and 380/416 on e85 . These are easily had at low miles and cheap just like the old 5.3 and 6.0 were when they were relevant .I don't know much about the motor for swapping vs a older 5.3 . I'm going to be picking up a drivetrain for swapping next year because that's the logical conclusion to this build up vs a stock 4.0 .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I know the afm gets to be a concern for the motor after some miles but if you pick up one low enough it wouldn’t be a problem I wouldn’t think. I liked the one I totes around a bit.
I know the afm gets to be a concern for the motor after some miles but if you pick up one low enough it wouldn’t be a problem I wouldn’t think. I liked the one I totes around a bit.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
These are all 15k- 25k mile complete take outs . I was looking at the gm 6.2 ,but these new direct injected 5.3s are plenty of power and they are the base v8 in all the gm trucks so they are cheap vs the upscale 6.2 .
These are all 15k- 25k mile complete take outs . I was looking at the gm 6.2 ,but these new direct injected 5.3s are plenty of power and they are the base v8 in all the gm trucks so they are cheap vs the upscale 6.2 .
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I haven't really messed with those yet but the only thing I think maybe an issue would be fuel pump control. Mostnof the newer stuff has a fuel pump module that talks to PCM to control fuel flow to the high pressure di pump. Whether or not that's an issue I have no idea. Direct injection also has lots of carbon issues so that is a maintenance requirement that must be done or they run like crap. Honestly I think annolder ls would be simpler and more reliable.
I haven't really messed with those yet but the only thing I think maybe an issue would be fuel pump control. Mostnof the newer stuff has a fuel pump module that talks to PCM to control fuel flow to the high pressure di pump. Whether or not that's an issue I have no idea. Direct injection also has lots of carbon issues so that is a maintenance requirement that must be done or they run like crap. Honestly I think annolder ls would be simpler and more reliable.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Older 5.3 are high miles and not much more power than a drop in Golan 4.6 since they are only 285/325 ... lol... it's not getting started until after a solid year of wheeling ...lol... before the treps dry rot .
Older 5.3 are high miles and not much more power than a drop in Golan 4.6 since they are only 285/325 ... lol... it's not getting started until after a solid year of wheeling ...lol... before the treps dry rot .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Well I will be upgrading my Yukons to 300m rcv ... if anyone is interested in the Yukons let me know . The shafts are in excellent condition the super joints are a bit roughed up on the trunions from not greasing enough , but they still are plenty useable and still way stronger than Spicer life series . I'm replacing them for the strength during steering under power the cv joint provides .
Well I will be upgrading my Yukons to 300m rcv ... if anyone is interested in the Yukons let me know . The shafts are in excellent condition the super joints are a bit roughed up on the trunions from not greasing enough , but they still are plenty useable and still way stronger than Spicer life series . I'm replacing them for the strength during steering under power the cv joint provides .
- Location
- Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
For a hp 30 or?
Going from ujoints to Cvs??
For a hp 30 or?
Going from ujoints to Cvs??
