Can't even get the oil filter adapter T60 wrench onto the bolt.

Status
Not open for further replies.
You can borrow my tool i made from a torx socket like others suggested. If i can find it. You also need a 3/8" breaker bar. Mine is a craftsman. It happens to be fairly thin.

Honestly your little wrench probably wouldn't have loosened the nut even if you got it on. Even after i got my t60 socket on my craftsman 3/8 breaker bar, i still had to find a piece of 2 foot scrap pipe, and slip it on the breaker bar for more leverage. You will never have enough torque on that little wrench to get that bolt off.

Email me, i'll mail u my tool or you can come get it in 12188.

[email protected]
 
Chrisp929 said:
You can borrow my tool i made from a torx socket like others suggested. If i can find it. You also need a 3/8" breaker bar. Mine is a craftsman. It happens to be fairly thin.

Honestly your little wrench probably wouldn't have loosened the nut even if you got it on. Even after i got my t60 socket on my craftsman 3/8 breaker bar, i still had to find a piece of 2 foot scrap pipe, and slip it on the breaker bar for more leverage. You will never have enough torque on that little wrench to get that bolt off.

Email me, i'll mail u my tool or you can come get it in 12188.

[email protected]
Click to expand...

While you may very well be right, I used the same size and style he has (but mine was a chrome vanadium forged(?)) one and I used a 3 foot pipe (1/2" steel water pipe I think), and got lucky with mine. But I soaked the joint for a day or two in PB blaster first!!
 
I have dealt with this so many times I have a really good solution for the problem. I took a Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar, cut the drive off of it then take a quality T-60 socket and cut the bit off about 1/4" above the end of the teeth. Weld this piece to the swivel section still left on the breaker bar. I use a 1/2" BB because of the length of the handle, it gives me a great mechanical advantage. Once I get the bolt broken loose then you can run it out by hand if you push the adapter in towards the block. This gets the O rings out of their seats so the bolt will spin freely.

Now, once the bolt is out. I weld a 1/2x13 nut to the end of it(plug weld it) so I can use a 3/4" wrench to tighten it down and to service the O rings again in the future.
 
Dude, you're psyching yourself out on this. Step away from it for a few days, throw that piece of crap L wrench away, get the 'right' tools, and tackle it this weekend.

Here's what I used:

IMG_20121203_202113_564.jpg


IMG_20121203_202130_177.jpg


IMG_20121203_202903_777.jpg


Took a cheap 12mm combo wrench, cut the open end off with a hacksaw in my living room. Got a T-60 torx socket from O'Reilly, popped the torx piece out. 2' of pipe to add leverage to the bit on presto, just me, under the Jeep. No welding, power tools, etc.

Is it ghetto as hell? Yah. Did it work semi-effortlessly? Yah.
 
Last edited:
x2, take that "L wrench", and throw that shit in the garbage. (Not really, its a usefull tool, but not for this) Because of the design, the wrench twists instead of rotating perfectly allong the work leg.

When you get a socket, and knock out the tip, put a wrench on the torx much closer to the tip, etc, the twisting forces are nullified, and it doesnt cam-out.

WORST case senario, get a nice and crisp pair of vice grips, and lock onto the bolt.

When i got my 98, being used to renix era hex head, i had to do exactly as everyone else mentioned, worked like a charm. I then converted back to a renix Oil filter neck/bolt, a new center nipple, new o-rings from morris4x4, and a FL-1A large oil filter. Oil system and filter are now happy.
 
Last edited:
Can I just hacksaw the L-wrench to make a stubby bit? It is made in USA, by the way. Won't that give me the same result as detaching a T60 bit?

I'm not worried about leverage, I'm worried about the bit slipping out during twisting. I think it's smart to have a friend hold a prybar against the frame rail and back of bit to keep it in. If I strip it, then I can't even pay a professional to fix this.

For those who used a breaker bar from underneath, did you use a lift? I can't see having any room under the bar for a cheater bar. Unless you guys all have 6" lifts?
 
Lurch, you could have use a short fat pipe the first 6-12 inches and a bell reducer, with out cutting the tool end off. Other wize a nice picture how to post!!!:clap:
 
The next step is to try a "bit", instead of the L-wrench.
With a "bit" instead of a L-wrench, I can also hammer it into the Torx hole with the end of a wrench.
It may help keep it seated once I start to turn.

But, I've been advised that I can not cut off the end of the "tempered steel" L-wrench without serious cutting tools.
All I have is an angle grinder. I can get access to a vice but don't have a cutting device like many of you professionals do.

If someone can PM me and mail me their "bit", I will use that with a 12mm wrench and cheater bar. I will pay postage and return it ASAP.
I pretty much can assume that if I buy a T60 socket, I will not be able to get it out of the socket, or it will take me weeks to get it off, or I'll maim myself in the process.

I still have 3 questions:

1) If you used a cheater bar, was there clearance under the XJ? Or did you use the cheater bar from the engine bay? A long cheater bar will ALREADY be hitting the ground on my stock 0" lift XJ.
So, am I wasting my time with all this BS since I don't even have a lift anyway? Or can it work from above?

2) Do you HAVE to use blue locktite? Has anyone done this just and just bolted the OFA back on without LockTite?

3) I think I will replace the rusty OFA bolt for $15-$20. If this thing rusts more, it will be on forever. Then again, these new o-rings will outlive the XJ.

At this point, it would have been cheaper to take this work to the dealer right from the start.
I am already into this project a solid 20-25 hours on the forum, and $70+ (L-wrench, LockTite, angle grinder, degreaser, o-rings), so I really want to get this F'er off now.
 
Last edited:
Not to sound like a jerk but you could buy one for less than it would cost to ship it. I'm thinking around five bucks. Unless you live in some black hole that doesn't have an auto zone on every corner.
 
The ones at AutoZone don't have the screwed in ones. No way I am going to try to detach it by force. I'm not a real man and have delicate hands. I'd rather pay to ship it. $5/ea way. This will also save me the 20 hours of trying to separate it from the socket, maiming and blinding myself with a blow torch and hammer, and posting 5 times on the forum to ask for help. Yea, shipping.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of putting an oil filter adapter on? Are you trying to use a different sized filter moving forward, are you trying to relocate it slightly?
 
It is pressed in not screwed in, or it would come out when you tried to use it. It should come out with a punch (or a piece of steel rod or an old bolt and some pliers...) and hell, even a carpenters hammer.

This ain't the huge undertaking you're turning it into.
 
Cottontail said:
Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of putting an oil filter adapter on? Are you trying to use a different sized filter moving forward, are you trying to relocate it slightly?
Click to expand...

There is an adapter on the 4.0 from the factory.

Early ones point the oil filter up towards the valve cover, later ones toward the rear.

With the frame in the way, you can't just put a filter straight onto the block like in a YJ/TJ.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

1
Filter media on floor mats?
Replies
10
Views
670
twags2004
T
A
Holding onto rear axle
Replies
3
Views
196
Anak
Anak
M
The Infamous Oil Filter Adapter
2 3 4
Replies
69
Views
13K
nin773
N
bradleyheathhays
1st transmission problem in 28 years
Replies
2
Views
205
lawsoncl
L
P
1999 XJ is getting the best of me. No Start.
Replies
13
Views
269
Anak
Anak
Back
Top