- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thats a good idea, while the housing is bare. I know there are some Akebono knuckles and calipers sitting in PNP right now.....
Build thread White '99
- Thread starter Jeepedo129
- Start date
Thats a good idea, while the housing is bare. I know there are some Akebono knuckles and calipers sitting in PNP right now.....
- Location
- Henderson, NV
So Ive ordered my TNT long arms, but its on back order pending lower arms to be manufactured. So probably won't see them until early to mid March. :bawl:
so until then I have to occupy my time and satisfy that itch to build something with this little creation.
I have never seen a 97+ XJ that did have a wobbly center console, and mine was no different. Ive seen several people fab up new mounts and decided that I was tired of a wobbly console, No body like a wobbly console.......
I started with some 1/8" strap that I had laying around and some 14GA scrap to make the base.
the bend on the back right leg is tricky, to clear the Airbag module, it has to have an offset bend, then another angled bend to match the floor and I had to cut a notch out to clear the corner of the module. took several tries to get it right.
I welded both sides for added strength.
After I got it to clear the airbag module with it touching it, I moved on to the studs that the center console screws into. I used some square 3/4" tubing an caped them off. Then I put the rear vent tube in its place and marked the position of the studs. then burnt them in.
Once I got everything to fit where it should I threw on a coat of black paint and put it all together, then with the center console installed, I drilled the holes in the studs for the mounting screws a step smaller than the screws, then drilled them in.
Im really happy how this turned out, no more wobbly center console
plus when I'm driving around there are less rattles.
so until then I have to occupy my time and satisfy that itch to build something with this little creation.
I have never seen a 97+ XJ that did have a wobbly center console, and mine was no different. Ive seen several people fab up new mounts and decided that I was tired of a wobbly console, No body like a wobbly console.......
I started with some 1/8" strap that I had laying around and some 14GA scrap to make the base.
the bend on the back right leg is tricky, to clear the Airbag module, it has to have an offset bend, then another angled bend to match the floor and I had to cut a notch out to clear the corner of the module. took several tries to get it right.
I welded both sides for added strength.
After I got it to clear the airbag module with it touching it, I moved on to the studs that the center console screws into. I used some square 3/4" tubing an caped them off. Then I put the rear vent tube in its place and marked the position of the studs. then burnt them in.
Once I got everything to fit where it should I threw on a coat of black paint and put it all together, then with the center console installed, I drilled the holes in the studs for the mounting screws a step smaller than the screws, then drilled them in.
Im really happy how this turned out, no more wobbly center console
plus when I'm driving around there are less rattles.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Oops, double post
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- Location
- Henderson, NV
Updates,
Got my TNT Long Arm in last week, due to some shipping issues, (ups using my box as a punching bag) I had to wait until last night to install it.
I had to run to HD to get new drill bits, and a Unibit. As a note for anyone that want to install this, make sure you have a long 1/2 drill bit, some kind of unibit that will go up to 3/4 and a tap for M10x1.5. The front bolts on either side need to be tapped, and if, like me, you have frame stiffeners, your going to have drill it out and get lucky to hit the hole
Got it on both sides! While I was down there I cleaned up the rust and touched up some of the welds around where the belly pan mounts to the frame.
Belly pan is beefy, and weighs quite a bit, so installing by yourself is kind of a pain.
My old arms had very worn bushings, and basically fell out when I removed the bolts. After the arms were removed, it was time for the point of no return......
I did a rough measure of about where I wanted my pinion and caster to be, I tried to put it right in the middle so I wouldn't get vibes, or bad driving characteristics. My angle finder is a bubble level so not super accurate..... but I believe I'm about 3.5-4 deg of caster and about 8 deg pinion. After that I tried to center the tire in the wheel well, coils are straight, and no vibes.
I have to say, the ride is a million times better, I dont try and avoid the bumps in the road anymore haha
Got my TNT Long Arm in last week, due to some shipping issues, (ups using my box as a punching bag) I had to wait until last night to install it.
I had to run to HD to get new drill bits, and a Unibit. As a note for anyone that want to install this, make sure you have a long 1/2 drill bit, some kind of unibit that will go up to 3/4 and a tap for M10x1.5. The front bolts on either side need to be tapped, and if, like me, you have frame stiffeners, your going to have drill it out and get lucky to hit the hole
Got it on both sides! While I was down there I cleaned up the rust and touched up some of the welds around where the belly pan mounts to the frame.
Belly pan is beefy, and weighs quite a bit, so installing by yourself is kind of a pain.
My old arms had very worn bushings, and basically fell out when I removed the bolts. After the arms were removed, it was time for the point of no return......
I did a rough measure of about where I wanted my pinion and caster to be, I tried to put it right in the middle so I wouldn't get vibes, or bad driving characteristics. My angle finder is a bubble level so not super accurate..... but I believe I'm about 3.5-4 deg of caster and about 8 deg pinion. After that I tried to center the tire in the wheel well, coils are straight, and no vibes.
I have to say, the ride is a million times better, I dont try and avoid the bumps in the road anymore haha
- Location
- Henderson, NV
On a side note, I wasn't able to install my transfercase skid. The one TNT sent me has a funky end on the frame side and doesn't fit. Im guessing its for a different vehicle. So i guess I'll have to send back my Skid...... again :banghead:
cherokeeproject
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cypress, TX
looking good, your build is very similar to what im aiming for on mine. you'll have to let me know what you think of the TNT kit. Ive been drooling over this kit for a while but I still cant completely convince myself that I want a y-link / radius arm setup. but I love the fact that TNT uses the integrated skid plate / cross member..... decisions decisions...
so I have to ask, what happened with that Sanden compressor? ever get it working to give you the OBA? that bit had me intrigued so im thinking I might try and make something like that happen on mine.
so I have to ask, what happened with that Sanden compressor? ever get it working to give you the OBA? that bit had me intrigued so im thinking I might try and make something like that happen on mine.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thanks man, So far Ive really liked the radius arms, This is my first long arm kit so I cant speak for others, but as it stand right now, I really like them, the ride is loads better, plus with the driveline dialed in it doesn't vibrate so driving on the freeway is awesome. the only draw back so far that I can see it with the high clearance arms, the come pretty close to my exhaust and the frame on the drivers side, so ill have to clear some more metal out. BUT that belly pan is PURE beef.... 
As far as the compressor....... it's still in R&D......
I got started with it and I'm ready to start putting pieces together but it just got pushed to the back burner. But it is still something I really want to do and depending on what happens here in the next month I ill get back on it. :thumbup:
As far as the compressor....... it's still in R&D......
I got started with it and I'm ready to start putting pieces together but it just got pushed to the back burner. But it is still something I really want to do and depending on what happens here in the next month I ill get back on it. :thumbup:
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Nice, Brandon. I had a similar idea for the fractured console mount, well done.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thanks Jeff! It is a pain to make, but well worth it.
cherokeeproject
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cypress, TX
Thanks man, So far Ive really liked the radius arms, This is my first long arm kit so I cant speak for others, but as it stand right now, I really like them, the ride is loads better, plus with the driveline dialed in it doesn't vibrate so driving on the freeway is awesome. the only draw back so far that I can see it with the high clearance arms, the come pretty close to my exhaust and the frame on the drivers side, so ill have to clear some more metal out. BUT that belly pan is PURE beef....
As far as the compressor....... it's still in R&D......
I got started with it and I'm ready to start putting pieces together but it just got pushed to the back burner. But it is still something I really want to do and depending on what happens here in the next month I ill get back on it. :thumbup:
good to know. I've got a spare compressor out of a 98 XJ with a bad bearing ($40 fix) that im hoping to use for OBA, I want to mount it underneath my power steering pump as well so I can keep my A/C and everything else, so i'd like to see how well the mounting works for you and how the heat from the exhaust manifold affects it. Its pretty far down on my list of things to do but if I beat you to it i'll be sure to fill you in on any lessons learned.
clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
here's what I built, HP30 from a 98 XJ, ballistic truss, home made C gussets, plated upper pass side control arm mount,, plated the trackbar bracket(it's thin metal and tends to wallow out.) 3/8 plate on the LCA mounts for skids(tied into the axle tubes) 4.56's and a list of stuff that I have to go on it. I have a total of $60 out of my pocket into this project.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
That is the main reason I stopped that project, just because I didn't know how much it was going to take to mount it where I want to. So if you do it I would love to see someone try this!
- Location
- Henderson, NV
That's not bad at all. I'm almost in more than that with just the spacers from JKS for the wj steering lol. :laugh:
I picked up a d30 with 4:10s in it and I got a set of wj knuckles and calipers. I'm almost ready to start the wj conversion. Just need unit bearings and ball joints. Then figure out steering and track bar.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
And I poser pic for good measure.
Any further and I would have rolled over haha,
but really I had tons more to go that's just the best I could do in the church parking lot. At full left lock at that much droop the TRE for the tie rod hits the sway bar..... So yeah
Any further and I would have rolled over haha,
but really I had tons more to go that's just the best I could do in the church parking lot. At full left lock at that much droop the TRE for the tie rod hits the sway bar..... So yeah
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
And I poser pic for good measure.
Any further and I would have rolled over haha,
but really I had tons more to go that's just the best I could do in the church parking lot. At full left lock at that much droop the TRE for the tie rod hits the sway bar..... So yeah
looks sharp, i miss when mine was clean.
ive had a lot of issues with the adjusting colllar hitting the sway bar link (i run a ZJ tie rod) i always have to make it a point to bias the bolts out of the way. no issues at the driver side with the actual TRE hitting the sway bar links.
FWIW... people always complain about stock steering. but after watching a buddies jeep, im convinced that its not the limiting factor:
- Location
- Henderson, NV
But that flex tho....... Ha. That's a good lookin jeep.
I typed wrong, at full right lock and that much droop, the TRE hits the passenger side sway bar and locks the steering in place. I was a little worried about this, but I went wheeling in the west desert and never had an issue. Plus in the coming weeks I'll have new steering.
Btw, after much criticism about my tiny tires, I will be getting some new 33s, and with the wj steering I'll need to bump up to a 16" wheel so I figured I'd wait until then to go bigger. If anyone was wondering why I'm still running 31s
I typed wrong, at full right lock and that much droop, the TRE hits the passenger side sway bar and locks the steering in place. I was a little worried about this, but I went wheeling in the west desert and never had an issue. Plus in the coming weeks I'll have new steering.
Btw, after much criticism about my tiny tires, I will be getting some new 33s, and with the wj steering I'll need to bump up to a 16" wheel so I figured I'd wait until then to go bigger. If anyone was wondering why I'm still running 31s
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Albert Jr.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Curacao
The Jeep is looking very nice.
The axles are looking good also.
The axles are looking good also.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Started planning out my axle. I ordered my RuffStuff steering kit, and my wj brake spacers from jKS.
I'm going to strip the axle of all of its brackets, minus the drivers UCA. Also, I'm going to move the coils back over the axle and rotate the inner Cs for proper caster and pinion angle.
At 10* of pinion I'm at 1.5* positive caster...... No good. I went and measured my jeep, and I'm way off on my earlier measurements, from what I could see last night I'm at 3.5* of pinion and 6.5* of caster. So not bad.
I'm confused as to why it's positive caster, from what I've read it should be a 1.5-2* negative caster, so I'll have to read some more before I dive into rotating them.
I'm going to attempt to remove and reuse the stock coil buckets, I'll see how that goes haha.
I'm going to strip the axle of all of its brackets, minus the drivers UCA. Also, I'm going to move the coils back over the axle and rotate the inner Cs for proper caster and pinion angle.
At 10* of pinion I'm at 1.5* positive caster...... No good. I went and measured my jeep, and I'm way off on my earlier measurements, from what I could see last night I'm at 3.5* of pinion and 6.5* of caster. So not bad.
I'm confused as to why it's positive caster, from what I've read it should be a 1.5-2* negative caster, so I'll have to read some more before I dive into rotating them.
I'm going to attempt to remove and reuse the stock coil buckets, I'll see how that goes haha.
Why are you putting the pinion at 10 degrees? It should be the same as you jeep at 3.5 degrees. That is if you pinion angle is good on your jeep as it sits or are you planning ahead to what it will be... But that seems like a big difference.
Also, I would measure caster with a flat edge against the side of the Cs, I think it would be hard to know if your centered the way you have it shown.
Also, I would measure caster with a flat edge against the side of the Cs, I think it would be hard to know if your centered the way you have it shown.
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- Location
- Henderson, NV
I'm planning on going up 2 or so more inches. I'm going off others that have 6-6.5" of lift, but you're right it seems like a lot. I figured I was already at 7ish deg on my jeep, so I'm going to do some more figuring this evening when I get home.
