philagony94xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Schererville, Indiana
Are your rockers in good shape?(read are there rust holes in them). If yes then weld these in as replacements, if no well then you could go either way(bolt-in or weld in).
Build thread White '99
- Thread starter Jeepedo129
- Start date
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Ya my rockers are in pretty good shape, I've come to the conclusion that welding them on to the frame stiffeners will probably be the easiest and the strongest.
I made a little bit of progress on the sliders today, I'm building the drivers side first to get the form right then I'll fab up the passenger side. I cut and capped off the slider and began building the supports.
My lay out is pretty simple, 2x3 .120 wall tubes cut at 5' and 45ed each end. I'm using 1.5x1.5 .120 for the supports and tack weld to the pinch seam. Front arms will be 9" set in from the edge of the slider and the back is set in 1'. I preplanned for a long arm kit so I chose my spots for the arms based on that.
Because I want the slider fairly close to the body I had to jog the legs on the 2x3 to clear the pinch seam but my solution to that is cut a 2" cut out and bend up the slack to meet the slider so it's sealed and a smaller side profile.
Got the supports on and did a quick test fit, and I'm pleased with the way it sits so I moved on to finish welding the supports.
Also snagged a tank skid for a great deal of 30$
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Looking good. Did you get your CB installed and tuned yet?
- Location
- Wasatch Range
So I guess I should update my thread. I've been drivin the jeep for a couple weeks, and my jeep feels brand new. No unibody echoes and dash board squeaks. The only issue I have is with the track bar mount. As I said above the 10ga steel between the frame and the mount have made the bolts not line up. My solution for now is I used a plasma cutter and oblonged the holes then put a washer on the bolts. Since I still have the stock track bar that isn't adjustable, my steering wheel is cockeyed. :doh:So the next on my list is an adjustable track bar.
Also, don't know if this is a track bar issue or the frame stiffener, but my drivers side coil is rubbing on the track bar mount when the suspension travels. Stay tuned.....
My money is on the too short trackbar.....
- Location
- Henderson, NV
I just picked up a Wilson 3' magnetic base antenna and the guy threw in a Uiden pro 510xl all for 20 bucks.
I already had a cobra radio but the guy said he had the antenna tuned to the radio so ill probably run the Uniden just to save time and I can sell my basically new Cobra for at least what I got this set up for.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Updates!
I know you're all excited for my updates ( crickets ) ...... Anyway I've been busy this week tryin to get my jeep ready for its first Naxja trail run. As you can see I've been building some quick and easy rock slides which are all finished and installed. I couldn't be happier with the way turned out.
After everything was welded and test fitted I primed with some self etch and then gloss black enamel.
I welded the supports directly to the frame, now that I've done it i wish I would have done some type of plate at the end of the support so that I could be sure that it was sealed but nevertheless here is the finished product.
I was hoping to get some kind of locker but it looks like time and money aren't on my side for this. Today I'm installing a few things, gas tank skid, and my CB radio. Also, picked up a RE HD track bar and mount for 55$ and ordered new bushings and flex joint bushings, even though the ones on there are just fine.
Here's the new track bar.
I know you're all excited for my updates ( crickets ) ...... Anyway I've been busy this week tryin to get my jeep ready for its first Naxja trail run. As you can see I've been building some quick and easy rock slides which are all finished and installed. I couldn't be happier with the way turned out.
After everything was welded and test fitted I primed with some self etch and then gloss black enamel.
I welded the supports directly to the frame, now that I've done it i wish I would have done some type of plate at the end of the support so that I could be sure that it was sealed but nevertheless here is the finished product.
I was hoping to get some kind of locker but it looks like time and money aren't on my side for this. Today I'm installing a few things, gas tank skid, and my CB radio. Also, picked up a RE HD track bar and mount for 55$ and ordered new bushings and flex joint bushings, even though the ones on there are just fine.
Here's the new track bar.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Installed the new track bar, and my suspension noises are all gone!
Out with the old in with the new
Had to mess with the holes on the track bar bracket due to my frame stiffeners but a plasma cutter made easy work. But it was worth the work, The ride is much better.
Out with the old in with the new
Had to mess with the holes on the track bar bracket due to my frame stiffeners but a plasma cutter made easy work. But it was worth the work, The ride is much better.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Updates
I've been pretty busy with life lately, I graduated, then holiday vacations and so on, so the jeep has got very little attention
But there where a couple small things that I did that I thought I should share.
First thing, was something that I wanted on my old jeep. I added hood lift supports so I don't have to use the stupid lift rod.
I found the perfect supports for the xj, they are the hood supports from a 3000 GT. $10 from the JY and a little bit of scrap metal made this build possible.
These supports work great because they come with a mounting bracket and a mounting bolt on the other end.
The bottom mounting bracket shares one of the hood hinge's bottom outer studs and then I used a self tapping screw in the second hole to keep it from rotating.
I cut a triangular bracket for the top out of some scrap I had layin around, I believe it's 10 ga. I painted the mounts with some self etching primer and I will eventually paint them white. But now I don't have to use the rod, for ten bucks, this mod is way worth it.
I've been pretty busy with life lately, I graduated, then holiday vacations and so on, so the jeep has got very little attention
But there where a couple small things that I did that I thought I should share.
First thing, was something that I wanted on my old jeep. I added hood lift supports so I don't have to use the stupid lift rod.
I found the perfect supports for the xj, they are the hood supports from a 3000 GT. $10 from the JY and a little bit of scrap metal made this build possible.
These supports work great because they come with a mounting bracket and a mounting bolt on the other end.
The bottom mounting bracket shares one of the hood hinge's bottom outer studs and then I used a self tapping screw in the second hole to keep it from rotating.
I cut a triangular bracket for the top out of some scrap I had layin around, I believe it's 10 ga. I painted the mounts with some self etching primer and I will eventually paint them white. But now I don't have to use the rod, for ten bucks, this mod is way worth it.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
The next project I'm working on is still in the planning stage. I got a free Sanden 7 piston compressor from a '98 and I want to add OBA to my jeep.
I've searched the web and read tons of different ways of moding the compressor to be OBA. I would like to go with the Grease style and add zerk fittings on the housing. However the main road block in my plan it the mounting of the compressor. Many people with Sandens either use their existing compressor, or move their battery and mount the new compressor to the side of the old one. As I want to keep my AC, using the existing bracket is not an option. Moving the battery can turn into a giant pain if you want it to be done right and look decent under the hood. So I've decided I am going to be adventurous and try mounting the compressor where the 4.0 grands mount theirs, right under the PS pump. There will be a couple road blocks to deal with, but I believe that if this works, I will still have room under the hood, and it will look factory.
This is where I would like the compressor to live. I have since put in a K&N filter system so I have a little more room.
I've already disassembled the compressor and cleaned it all up. Just need to block off the small passage way on the valve side , drill in some zerks, and pack full of grease and the compressor will be done.
Next on the list will be drafting up some kind of mount for the compressor, with regard to the belt tensioner. Since the compressor will be right in that area, I might have to find alternate ways of tensioning the belt. I have thought of making the compressors mounting bracket movable like some Alternators.
Another factor will be to see if the compressor being so close to the exhaust, will have negative consequences.
More to come. Stay tuned!
I've searched the web and read tons of different ways of moding the compressor to be OBA. I would like to go with the Grease style and add zerk fittings on the housing. However the main road block in my plan it the mounting of the compressor. Many people with Sandens either use their existing compressor, or move their battery and mount the new compressor to the side of the old one. As I want to keep my AC, using the existing bracket is not an option. Moving the battery can turn into a giant pain if you want it to be done right and look decent under the hood. So I've decided I am going to be adventurous and try mounting the compressor where the 4.0 grands mount theirs, right under the PS pump. There will be a couple road blocks to deal with, but I believe that if this works, I will still have room under the hood, and it will look factory.
This is where I would like the compressor to live. I have since put in a K&N filter system so I have a little more room.
I've already disassembled the compressor and cleaned it all up. Just need to block off the small passage way on the valve side , drill in some zerks, and pack full of grease and the compressor will be done.
Next on the list will be drafting up some kind of mount for the compressor, with regard to the belt tensioner. Since the compressor will be right in that area, I might have to find alternate ways of tensioning the belt. I have thought of making the compressors mounting bracket movable like some Alternators.
Another factor will be to see if the compressor being so close to the exhaust, will have negative consequences.
More to come. Stay tuned!
clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
If I were you I would've put body seamsealer around the perimeter of the stiffener/s
1yellowjk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Haughton LA
Like your build and REALLY like the write-up for the frame stiffeners, That will be on my ever growing list of things to do to my new XJ.
Keep the updates coming.
Keep the updates coming.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Not a bad idea. I did this on my rear stiffeners when I installed them.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
You're probably right, I have actually been pushing that off cause of the cold, which is not the best. However, I'm going to be doing a bunch of stuff on the jeep for WOTR;
new 4.5 leafs from Fat Bobs,
1.5" coil pucks up front
Brake lines
Possibly a shackle, depending on ride height.
SYE kit,
no slip lunch box locker in the back,
a quick n' easy tube bumper with tow points
and I have a set of 33s sitting in my shop.
(Haven't decided if I should put the 33s on yet or not due to my stock gearing.)
So when I'm out adding on the jeep, I'll put seam sealer on all of my stiffeners, as well as touch up some spots to add some strength. This week and next will be very busy!
Thanks, it's always good to hear when people like your work! Defiantly install frame stiffeners as a first step to any xj build. Your body will thank you.
I've even been contemplating adding more to the under body, I would like to add some rolled steel rod stock from leaf hanger to hanger. Bent to match the tranny tunnel. Just for some more strength as well as steering box stiffeners. My last xj had stress cracks and I didn't even wheel that hard.
Stay tuned.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Updates:
In anticipation for the WOTR down in St George, I have been putting some money in the jeep.
First, my leaf packs where some Frankenstein pack the previous owner put on, I believe they where the stock springs with a overload spring used as a helper with a 2" block. In other words my springs sucked. When we went up Providence Canyon, my jeep was loaded and then caked with mud, my jeep sat lower than the stock height!!!
So I bought a new pack from Fat Bobs in Ogden. They are a 4.5" Rough Country pack. The new pack is on the bottom, and the old is on top. You can see where the overload spring was bolted on. On this leaf, it actually broke off when I went through a dip some months ago.
I soaked the spring bolts, and the ubolts with Freeze Off, and for the most part that worked.......for the most part........
The ubolts came off with a big cheater, but the main spring bolts were seized in the bushing. A sawzall had to be used to cut out the bolts. PITA!!! But all is well now. I installed a 4* shim then installed the new hardware with anti seize and lubed the bushings and bolts with grease.
Next I installed BDS extended stainless steal brake lines.
These are pretty straight forward. Unbolt, rebolt, and bleed. Just make sure you have crush washers on both sides of the bolt.
I moved on to installing the 2" puck to level out the jeep. With the new springs I was sitting at almost 24" from the center of the tire to the fender. I believe that's around 5.5-6" of lift. (Correct me if I'm wrong.) Pucks are a pain to install, but a very cheap and easy way to add some inches.
Before, with 31s
After with 33s
33s are boggin me down on power, so until I'm geared I'll keep the 31s.
More to come soon!
In anticipation for the WOTR down in St George, I have been putting some money in the jeep.
First, my leaf packs where some Frankenstein pack the previous owner put on, I believe they where the stock springs with a overload spring used as a helper with a 2" block. In other words my springs sucked. When we went up Providence Canyon, my jeep was loaded and then caked with mud, my jeep sat lower than the stock height!!!
So I bought a new pack from Fat Bobs in Ogden. They are a 4.5" Rough Country pack. The new pack is on the bottom, and the old is on top. You can see where the overload spring was bolted on. On this leaf, it actually broke off when I went through a dip some months ago.
I soaked the spring bolts, and the ubolts with Freeze Off, and for the most part that worked.......for the most part........
The ubolts came off with a big cheater, but the main spring bolts were seized in the bushing. A sawzall had to be used to cut out the bolts. PITA!!! But all is well now. I installed a 4* shim then installed the new hardware with anti seize and lubed the bushings and bolts with grease.
Next I installed BDS extended stainless steal brake lines.
These are pretty straight forward. Unbolt, rebolt, and bleed. Just make sure you have crush washers on both sides of the bolt.
I moved on to installing the 2" puck to level out the jeep. With the new springs I was sitting at almost 24" from the center of the tire to the fender. I believe that's around 5.5-6" of lift. (Correct me if I'm wrong.) Pucks are a pain to install, but a very cheap and easy way to add some inches.
Before, with 31s
After with 33s
33s are boggin me down on power, so until I'm geared I'll keep the 31s.
More to come soon!
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Next, with the added lift, I had some mean vibes man... Driveline vibes that is.
So I ordered the Rugged Ridge SYE kit. I had the RR sye in my last jeep and was very pleased with it. Plus their kit is 180$ compared to the other companies that are around 300$.
Install went pretty smooth. I tried doing it in the Jeep this time just so I wouldn't have the hassle of pulling the T case
The chain isn't really that loose, I took the pic with the front yoke loose and almost out haha
It's amazing how much thicker and beefier the new output shaft is.
For a driveline I used a front driveline from a auto XJ. It's not quite the perfect length but it was free$. The slip still has about 2 in more of travel, so I threw in a new u joint and had a buddy balance it. I took the jeep and flexed it out as much as I could, and the driveline isn't maxed out:thumbup:
Any higher, and I'll probably have to put in a custom shaft.
It's amazing how much better the ride is when you don't have driveline vibes. And after I spent about an hour with a tape measure aligning the front end, It
feels like a new Jeep.
Thursday I'll start building a tube bumper with some 1.5" DOM and some frame brackets I bought from Roxiold.
Stay Tuned, More to come!
So I ordered the Rugged Ridge SYE kit. I had the RR sye in my last jeep and was very pleased with it. Plus their kit is 180$ compared to the other companies that are around 300$.
Install went pretty smooth. I tried doing it in the Jeep this time just so I wouldn't have the hassle of pulling the T case
The chain isn't really that loose, I took the pic with the front yoke loose and almost out haha
It's amazing how much thicker and beefier the new output shaft is.
For a driveline I used a front driveline from a auto XJ. It's not quite the perfect length but it was free$. The slip still has about 2 in more of travel, so I threw in a new u joint and had a buddy balance it. I took the jeep and flexed it out as much as I could, and the driveline isn't maxed out:thumbup:
Any higher, and I'll probably have to put in a custom shaft.
It's amazing how much better the ride is when you don't have driveline vibes. And after I spent about an hour with a tape measure aligning the front end, It
feels like a new Jeep.
Thursday I'll start building a tube bumper with some 1.5" DOM and some frame brackets I bought from Roxiold.
Stay Tuned, More to come!
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Nice progress, Brandon!
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thanks Jeff, and for all your help an advice on and off the forum. I'm feeling pretty good with my build so far. It's been mostly budget minded, but I try to buy the good stuff when I can.
I have been very anxious to install my rear locker, but I'm waiting on a spring kit from 4wheel parts. I ordered it two weeks ago and still hasn't shown up.:smsoap: We'll see if I'm rocking open diffs at WOTR.
Bumper is mostly built, not my best work but I'm decently happy with it. Just need some polishing and paint. ( I stole the bumper idea from xjeeper haha)
Other than that, the rig is set for some wheelin.
Last edited:
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Well I'm happy to report that my rig did very well Down WOTR even with open diffs, I was able to follow built Rubis and XJs. Drove down wheeled and drove home just fine.
Next on my list, well, the next couple things..... My suspension has always been a little noisy, I'm guessing the bushings in my LCAs are worn, They pop every so often. So, Ive been shopping for an upgrade. With my Tax return here and a bonus from work coming I have a little over 1K to drop on the jeep so after much thought and self debate and research I am looking at getting the TNT long arm kit. I want a better ride for my DD and I like the belly pan that comes with the kit. thought heavily over a 3-4 link kit, but I've always had a thing for radius arms.....
I was hopping to get an ARB or E-locker, but with my gearing it would be stupid to drop the dough on a locker that wont able to work with higher (numerically) gears. I was also planning on starting to build up my D30, do to a small event in WOTR that made me realize I probably should beef it up.
not as high as it seems......but yeah.....
Next on my list, well, the next couple things..... My suspension has always been a little noisy, I'm guessing the bushings in my LCAs are worn, They pop every so often. So, Ive been shopping for an upgrade. With my Tax return here and a bonus from work coming I have a little over 1K to drop on the jeep so after much thought and self debate and research I am looking at getting the TNT long arm kit. I want a better ride for my DD and I like the belly pan that comes with the kit. thought heavily over a 3-4 link kit, but I've always had a thing for radius arms.....
I was hopping to get an ARB or E-locker, but with my gearing it would be stupid to drop the dough on a locker that wont able to work with higher (numerically) gears. I was also planning on starting to build up my D30, do to a small event in WOTR that made me realize I probably should beef it up.
not as high as it seems......but yeah.....
- Location
- Henderson, NV
I do however have a question about building a D30.
I would like to buy a 30 from the JY and have it sitting in the shop to work on. I know i want a HP and a non disco, but other than that are there any special years to avoid or to look for?
Going to put a Ballistic fab truss possibly coil perches, jks track bar mount, C gussets and LCA skids.
then ARB 4:88, and alloy 30 spline kit.
anyway
more to come
I would like to buy a 30 from the JY and have it sitting in the shop to work on. I know i want a HP and a non disco, but other than that are there any special years to avoid or to look for?
Going to put a Ballistic fab truss possibly coil perches, jks track bar mount, C gussets and LCA skids.
then ARB 4:88, and alloy 30 spline kit.
anyway
more to come
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Rotate the inner c's and add WJ outers/ brakes
