Brake issue! !!
- Thread starter pezman65
- Start date
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Getting there. I pray I flared my last line this morning. Everything is plumbed and test fit back into place, just waiting for the brake pedal to come in from EBay.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
That depends on this question to you: do you wish you did? Apparently it didn't come stock, but I don't know what it would hurt.
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No, you don't need the spring. No, it doesn't matter which front brake port for which brake line in the proportioning valve.
I have tried every conceivable type of brake bleeding process and always the best is the old have a friend pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valves routine.
Proper way of doing it from a drained system and you will need 2 of the large, full brake fluid bottles (and an already bench bled master cylinder);
1- Very important!! Check brake fluid level in master cylinder frequently! If it goes too low and sucks in air, you will have to start all over again!
2- proper order of bleeding is right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Drivers side is always left.
Open windows and have your buddy say the command responses loud enough for you to hear and vice versa.
3-Have buddy pump pedal 3 times medium speed and on 3rd pump, hold the pedal down. Have buddy tell you "OK" or "Ready" when he is pressing on the 3rd pump. Make sure he knows not to release pedal unless "You" tell him to.
4-Crack open RR bleeder until flow starts to slow. Close bleeder then tell buddy to "Do it again" for the next round of 3 pumps. Continue doing this until almost all of the air bubbles are out of the stream of the brake fluid coming out of the bleeders. Do this for all 4 wheels in the proper order.
5-Then, do it all again for all 4 wheels in the proper order but this time, make sure that "ALL" air bubbles are gone for at least 3, 3 pump cycles for each wheel to assure that absolutely ALL air bubbles are gone.
The reason that I do the full, 4 wheel brake bleed rotation twice is because the rear brake line, and the front proportioning valve, have "T's" (splitters) in them and I have found that when doing the initial bleeding, when you let up on the brake pedal, the back flowing brake fluid can draw some of the air that is in the other side of the "T" in the brake line. The second round usually eliminates all of the air and you should have a rock hard brake pedal if done correctly. If air is not "all" gone, do another rotation.
I have tried every conceivable type of brake bleeding process and always the best is the old have a friend pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valves routine.
Proper way of doing it from a drained system and you will need 2 of the large, full brake fluid bottles (and an already bench bled master cylinder);
1- Very important!! Check brake fluid level in master cylinder frequently! If it goes too low and sucks in air, you will have to start all over again!
2- proper order of bleeding is right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Drivers side is always left.
Open windows and have your buddy say the command responses loud enough for you to hear and vice versa.
3-Have buddy pump pedal 3 times medium speed and on 3rd pump, hold the pedal down. Have buddy tell you "OK" or "Ready" when he is pressing on the 3rd pump. Make sure he knows not to release pedal unless "You" tell him to.
4-Crack open RR bleeder until flow starts to slow. Close bleeder then tell buddy to "Do it again" for the next round of 3 pumps. Continue doing this until almost all of the air bubbles are out of the stream of the brake fluid coming out of the bleeders. Do this for all 4 wheels in the proper order.
5-Then, do it all again for all 4 wheels in the proper order but this time, make sure that "ALL" air bubbles are gone for at least 3, 3 pump cycles for each wheel to assure that absolutely ALL air bubbles are gone.
The reason that I do the full, 4 wheel brake bleed rotation twice is because the rear brake line, and the front proportioning valve, have "T's" (splitters) in them and I have found that when doing the initial bleeding, when you let up on the brake pedal, the back flowing brake fluid can draw some of the air that is in the other side of the "T" in the brake line. The second round usually eliminates all of the air and you should have a rock hard brake pedal if done correctly. If air is not "all" gone, do another rotation.
Last edited:
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Warlock, this wiring run from the old ABS module under the back seat...did you trace and remove all connections from this harness and remove all associated wiring? It runs along the drivers side, across the drivers floorboard, over the trans tunnel to the passenger side then through the firewall. It ties into the main engine bay harness at my finger in the last pic.
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Last edited:
Nah, I just unhooked everything, removed the controller that is under the rear seat, cut the wiring to the rear axle sensors flush with the floor pan on the bottom side, leaving the grommets to keep the holes sealed, and removed the light bulb for ABS out of dash. No problems so far.
I guess you could seal the connectors in the engine compartment with some rtv if you see water in your part of the country. I live in the desert so I just left them open.
I guess you could seal the connectors in the engine compartment with some rtv if you see water in your part of the country. I live in the desert so I just left them open.
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Ok thanks - also, is the switch on the proportioning valve bidirectional relative to the connector? The connector will go on both ways, but I can't seem to figure out which way is correct.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Pezman, are you able to bleed the brakes and get a harder pedal?
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It is just a switch, it doesn't matter which way you put it on.
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Progress - got the pedal in the mail today and immediately installed. Bled the MC on the vehicle with a universal kit with the plastic fittings then installed the lines from the MC to the PV. Then proceeded to pump to see if I could generate pedal resistance. I don't know why I thought I might....
Tomorrow I'm going to run by Harbor Freight to get a vacuum bleed kit and see what happens. So far it's not leaking.....
Oh yeah, and don't over-torque the little plastic switch on the PV. If you do, go ahead and buy yourself a screw extractor. Ask me how I know....pretty much finger tight is all you need.
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Tomorrow I'm going to run by Harbor Freight to get a vacuum bleed kit and see what happens. So far it's not leaking.....
Oh yeah, and don't over-torque the little plastic switch on the PV. If you do, go ahead and buy yourself a screw extractor. Ask me how I know....pretty much finger tight is all you need.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Is it normal to hear the vacuum hose "breathe" every time you press the pedal with the engine off? Not used to this setup.
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dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
Nope. Is the check valve working?
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Unsure? The pedal goes to the floor every press right now because of air in the line - not sure if that has anything to do with it.
To remove the check valve do you just rip it off? Seems like it's on there pretty good.
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Wait, what do you mean by "breathe"? Do you mean a slight hissing sound when you press the brake pedal? If the engine is off and you are pressing on the brake pedal, you should hear the stored up vacuum in the booster when pedal is pressed because it is now being used. The sound will be slight but I can hear mine and other vehicles that I have owned. It's nothing to be worried about.
I wouldn't mess with the check valve if you don't have to. You could possibly damage the gasket/grommet trying to pull it out. The fact that you are hearing the stored up vacuum in the booster tells you it is working.
Now, if you mean something like a leak in the hose from the intake manifold, that is something else.
I wouldn't mess with the check valve if you don't have to. You could possibly damage the gasket/grommet trying to pull it out. The fact that you are hearing the stored up vacuum in the booster tells you it is working.
Now, if you mean something like a leak in the hose from the intake manifold, that is something else.
Last edited:
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
I added a hose clamp to the hose at the manifold this morning and had my wife press the pedal while I listened. It's just coming out of the manifold backwards out of the throttle body. There isn't a leak at the valve or at the hose. I'm assuming this makes sense and that its generating significant pressure.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Alright now we're talking. Bled the brakes as much as I could for a first shot. Buttoned it up and took it for a spin. First success is that it cranked back up after sitting for 2-3 weeks. Awesome.
Second success is that I can lock up the fronts and I'm imagining the drums are out of adjustment. I'm going to bleed one more time.
I had a slight drip from one connection at the proportioning valve so I tightened that connection up and it quit so far.
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Second success is that I can lock up the fronts and I'm imagining the drums are out of adjustment. I'm going to bleed one more time.
I had a slight drip from one connection at the proportioning valve so I tightened that connection up and it quit so far.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Discovered that the rear brake line output is weeping ever so slightly. After two days of driving it is only barely "wet" at the base of the threads and hasn't dripped - that was one of the custom line runs I did so it must be an improper seat on the flare. I'll have to replace, unfortunately.
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