Brake issue! !!

I've reached the point of plumbing my proportioning valve. Are the outputs from the PV to the front wheels interchangeable? I assume they are but I'd love some confirmation :) I see a better route to reuse a brake line from the passenger side on the drivers side output.


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My first double flare. Forgot to put the fitting on lol.

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LKN_xj said:
Is yours a HO 4.0?


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Yes, my XJ have a 4.0 HO.

I made a mistake in my first post. The booster vacuum port is the third port for the firewall or second port from the throttle body.

Going from the throttle body to the firewall are
1) the breather to the value cover
2) brake booster vacuum
3) air temperature sensor
4) the vacuum to run the cruise control, AC vents and what else is connected to it.

I guess you could move things around or remove a plug and replace it with a barbed fitting.
 
LKN_xj said:
I've reached the point of plumbing my proportioning valve. Are the outputs from the PV to the front wheels interchangeable? I assume they are but I'd love some confirmation :) I see a better route to reuse a brake line from the passenger side on the drivers side output.


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My friend that helped me said that they were interchangeable so it doesn't matter as long as they're both front ones.

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techno1154 said:
Actually it is at the extreme end of the manifold near the firewall and bearly visible in this picture next to the temperature sensor.
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I hook my booster up to the one that is kept as LKN is asking. All that cap off and put a hose on it to the booster that's it
LKN_xj said:
No - I was asking for confirmation the capped vacuum port was where I connect the booster. There are no wires I'm concerned about - the only wires go to the proportioning valve and brake switch.

My concern stemmed from the fact that the manifold booster connection on the jeep at the junk yard that I pulled my booster from, was in a different location - more towards the firewall like you mentioned.

I think we are straight now :)


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Yeah to all above posts :)

I'm catching up! I went to the junkyard today to pick up a 96 pedal but they lied and the vehicle wasn't there. I found a few on eBay that I'll take a look at and pick one of those up. I picked up a universal master cylinder bleed kit last night. I have one custom line from the proportioning valve to a union that I flared and installed for the passenger-side brake line, then I should be able to bleed and test it out after the pedal comes in.

Also, for anyone looking for a better flaring tool than the ones that you rent, buy this one from Napa for about 30 bucks. The biggest problem with the rental tools are that the line pushes through the mandrel under flaring force. This one locks in really tight and is space efficient and you can do it on the vehicle.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/SER161A/

And a YouTube video explaining how it works.

https://youtu.be/gfJmdZZr5GM

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Warlock1 said:
Hmmm, that's strange, my brake pedal (1991 ABS) did not have a spring. Maybe when they built it they forgot to install it at the assembly line. Oh well, don't need it anyway with the upgrade.

Wow! 3 1/2 hours? And Oh man, you guys sure did a lot of extra work to install the brake pedal. I just reached up under the dash, took about 1 minute for the clip and about 5-6 minutes for the brake pedal nut and bolt and pedal out. Never touched dash, gauges or seat (just slid the seat all the way back). About 8-10 minutes to reinstall pedal all hooked back up. It's kind of cramped, but I've seen worse.

Oh wait, you guys removed and reinstalled the whole brake pedal and bracket assembly? Oh man, I just took out the pivot bolt for the brake pedal and removed the pedal only. Well it's all good, you now have spare parts if you need it. Lol
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Yeah the learning curve is here right now next time I'll know I had to take it off anyway at the assembly to reinstall the spring. :eek:

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pezman65 said:
Yeah the learning curve is here right now next time I'll know I had to take it off anyway at the assembly to reinstall the spring. :eek:

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Looking up a few posts, Warlock said you don't need the spring on the pedal. I can't find a 95-96 pedal assembly with a spring...


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My 91 had a spring on it. the junkyard 96 did not I took the spring off and put it on the 96 . I just figured they forgot to give it to me so am I wrong? geez this has been a PITA!

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So I have brakes and it stops. and I go down the road about 30 it stops but not on a dime but when I back up I can skid.but I cannot skid going forward. Not sure I trust it for freeway driving yet, what am I doing wrong? please help !pulling hair

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If you're having air issues, I'd look at moving those lines down below the master. Idea is that air can get trapped in them since they are above the resivoir. When plumbing breaks it's always a good idea to make sure all the lines go downhill.
 
dan1977p said:
If you're having air issues, I'd look at moving those lines down below the master. Idea is that air can get trapped in them since they are above the resivoir. When plumbing breaks it's always a good idea to make sure all the lines go downhill.
Click to expand...



Interesting - the 95 I pulled the booster from has a line from the rear of the prop valve, up over the top of the booster toward the drivers fender, then back across the firewall, takes a couple steps against gravity then down to the passenger wheel.

Unless you totally remove the stock passenger front brake line from the wheel to the proportioning valve and re-run it along the back of the engine going down, It's going to be impossible to use the stock passenger side front brake line in the system because it runs from the proportioning valve up along the bottom of the windshield wiper linkage area then back down over to the right front wheel.


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Last edited:
LKN_xj said:
Did you bleed the master cylinder and the proportioning valve?


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I did bench bleed the master cylinder but not the proportional valve. how would I go about doing that?a little naive on this....

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pezman65 said:
I did bench bleed the master cylinder but not the proportional valve. how would I go about doing that?a little naive on this....

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I've never done it either but if you look at the front of the proportioning valve there's a little rubber That covers a standard bleed screw. You should be able to bleed it the same way.


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