Brake issue! !!
- Thread starter pezman65
- Start date
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
There are plenty but this is a first I've ever heard of the spacer not being optional but even more, I've never heard of needing to pull the pedal too. The pedal makes a ton of sense and if the angle isn't perpendicular, I can see how straightening that out could facilitate a need for the spacer.
The aluminum spacer is only 1/4"-3/8" thick. While I am not saying that the spacer is 100% a must have, It seems to me that if it wasn't necessary, they would not have put it in originally.
In looking at how the brake pedal comes up against the bracket that holds the brake light switch, it is entirely possible that without that extra space that the spacer would provide, the brake pedal could be under a slight amount of preload. When you press on that brake pedal to stop the vehicle, you press on the booster shaft which in turn engages a valve enabling the vacuum assist. That extra preload might not be a good thing. Since it is so simple to put in, and since you are already in the junk yard for the brake pedal, all you need to do is undo the 4 nuts holding the booster and pull the whole assembly from the firewall and grab the spacer. Grab the gaskets while you are at it.
Like I said, you might need it or you might not, but the factory is not in the habit of installing something that is not necessary. They would rather save a buck at all costs. Think about it. I used it and my brakes are amazing. YMMV
In looking at how the brake pedal comes up against the bracket that holds the brake light switch, it is entirely possible that without that extra space that the spacer would provide, the brake pedal could be under a slight amount of preload. When you press on that brake pedal to stop the vehicle, you press on the booster shaft which in turn engages a valve enabling the vacuum assist. That extra preload might not be a good thing. Since it is so simple to put in, and since you are already in the junk yard for the brake pedal, all you need to do is undo the 4 nuts holding the booster and pull the whole assembly from the firewall and grab the spacer. Grab the gaskets while you are at it.
Like I said, you might need it or you might not, but the factory is not in the habit of installing something that is not necessary. They would rather save a buck at all costs. Think about it. I used it and my brakes are amazing. YMMV
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Pezman you are looking for this:
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
If this becomes a sticky, a couple notes for future readers that have already been stated here (mostly by Warlock 
)
The two bolts holding the pedal on under the dash (not the ones mutually holding the booster on), are most easily removed by removing the gauge cluster.
And here is a screen grab of a 1995 pedal on eBay compared to the 1991 pedal from my jeep - tried to simulate the eBay pic. Note the booster rod connection point being different. 1995 is lower down the rod = greater arc movement = more rod travel.
1995:
Mine (1991)
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)The two bolts holding the pedal on under the dash (not the ones mutually holding the booster on), are most easily removed by removing the gauge cluster.
And here is a screen grab of a 1995 pedal on eBay compared to the 1991 pedal from my jeep - tried to simulate the eBay pic. Note the booster rod connection point being different. 1995 is lower down the rod = greater arc movement = more rod travel.
1995:
Mine (1991)
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
You guys mind confirming this is image is correct? If it is correct, then my brake fittings from my stock lines (from legacy ABS setup) won't fit. In other words, the wrong size fittings are on the wrong lines from the old system.
Curious if Pezman was able to just bolt it up, or if he had to re-run hard lines.
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Curious if Pezman was able to just bolt it up, or if he had to re-run hard lines.
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You guys mind confirming this is image is correct? If it is correct, then my brake fittings from my stock lines (from legacy ABS setup) won't fit. In other words, the wrong size fittings are on the wrong lines from the old system.
Curious if Pezman was able to just bolt it up, or if he had to re-run hard lines.
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Yes, your picture is correct. If you look at post #71, I detail how the lines are routed.
As far as the fittings go, the 1995+ master cylinder uses the "bubble" type flare and metric fittings. If you have the older type "double flare" tool, you can also make the "bubble" type flares with it. Just only do the first operation with it, don't do the second "double flare" part where you fold the end back in on itself.
Because I had several systems in this Jeep, and hand made all of the brake lines, I can't say with any certainty that any of the old fittings from the ABS setup will fit. I am thinking that in 2 of the many fittings in that system (there must be 10-14 of them) hopefully two will fit but you definitely have to hand make the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. If you don't have the tool, you can probably rent or borrow one from the local auto parts place. If worse comes to worse, and you don't have the fittings, the local auto parts place will have sections of brake lines with fittings attached that you can use to make new lines or to grab the fittings from.
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Ok thanks. Warlock mentioned above they were metric but I'm seeing all aftermarket diagrams and most threads mentioning imperial. Can you confirm what you used for your fittings on the prop valve?
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I got off work today and put the new brake pedal in wasn't too bad took about three and a half hours and yes taking out the instrument panel did help getting to the two bolts for sure! Thanks LKN. Also taking out the driver's seat helped a lot. Will bleed tomorrow. I'm wondering if I should've bench bleed the master cylinder again? I didn't while it was off. maybe I should have after the thought?
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when I was cleaning up I noticed that the brake lights were still on so the brake switch does not hit the new brake pedal have to modify or adjusted out if possible, the clip on it looks kind of like a pita.any thoughts?
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Sorry for the late response - glad you got the gauge cluster removal figured out. It's not hard and now you know!
As for the switch, do you have the "black box" switch mounted on a bracket underneath the dash? If so you should be able to just push the ribbed shaft further into the mounting hole to bring it closer to the pedal to turn the light off.
To confirm, it turns off if you manually press the butting with your finger right? This is assuming you have the switch type I was referring to.
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LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Yea - that's the only adjustment it has. The button doesn't require much force to push.
For me I need to:
1) Pick up my flaring tool - after reading a lot and knowing the infrequency of which I will be using it, I decided on one Napa offers which doesn't allow the brake line to slip through the mandrel under flaring force.
2) Cut the fitting from my current rear brake line and my front right line, then install the fittings I bought last night at the store which mate to the proportioning valve. All but one would bolt right up, but another was buggered really bad and needed vice grips to remove. I'll replace that one. Then I'll re-flare the line to fit with the proportioning valve.
3) Go to the junk yard and pull the 96 pedal they have out there
4) Bolt it all up!
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