Boostec Supercharger Information
- Thread starter O-Gauge Steamer
- Start date
- Status
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
FYI. Mr. Rimmer does not do, nor does he have any knowledge about, building Strokers.
- Location
- Thornton, CO
What? Strokers are cake, they don't really take tuning. When is the last time you saw a thread about someone going with a stroker and having running/idle issues and needed tuning solutions?
As a side note, Rick Rimmer has been in and out of business so many times; I don't know how anyone could give him $4000 of their hard earned money. He doesn't even offer product support for his previous designs.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
With the exception of an initial over rich starting condition, strokers are pretty much a plug and play deal. They just work. The PCM has enough flexibility to learn that it needs to drive more fuel to keep the AFR where it needs to be. I built a 4.7L for my 97.
But, a Forced Induction engine is going to require intervention. Lots of it. You need to pull the ignition timing back when under boost. How much you pull it back depends on the grade fuel you use and the amount of boost you have on tap. You need to kick more fuel under boost as well.
I am not here to bad mouth anyone. I am attempting to document my experience with the Sprintex kit so others can make informed decisions. As to Mr. Rimmer, I did have to part ways due to many factors. None of which are anyone's business. Mind your beeswax. But he does have a poor track record with keeping a busness alive. Fact, not opinion...
The Sprintex Supercharger, mechanically, is a bolt on kit. With the exception of the throttle cable bracket, everything is well thought out and assembles very easily. If you can replace the manifold gasket, you can do the mechanical portion of the installation. The cable bracket needs a slight tweak at install. Otherwise, the CC cable holds the throttle open a tad giving a uncontrollable idle. From an engine management standpoint, I do know that Sprintex was working with Perfect Power to develop a new`controller to replace the SMT8-L. The replacement is said to address the timing issues that I uncovered. I just could not wait on it so replaced the lot with an AEM F/IC8. The F/IC6 works as well, just does not have a frequency table. I needed the table in order to correct the speedo. To install either the Perfect POwer or the AEM is going to require you to cut into the harness. I found the AEM ECU harness for Sprintex then AEM discontinued the product due to connector availablity issues. I made exactly two harness assemblies for Sprintex/Boostec prior to the part being discontinued.
If you are not handy with wiring, avoid any form of forced induction. Or pay someone, who is qualified, to do the installation.
You will notice that I have referred to the SC kit as a "Sprintex" kit. That is because that is what it is. Designed and manufactured in Australia. Mr. Rimmer is the North American Distributor for Sprintex.
I constantly get asked it the kit is worth the money. That is a hard question to answer. It depends. It depends on the condition of your engine. You absolutely can not add forced induction to a marginal engine as it will destroy that engine. Not news. Those of us that have been around forced induction for a while (Me? Since the 60s. my Dad was an original Hot Rodder in NorCal) know only too well what happens to an engine with high miles. It will turn into a grenade. The increased cylinder pressures will take out the rod bearings if they are less than good. The mains do not fair much better either...
So, if you are in a rebuild situation, my suggestion is go displacement, with a stroker build. The stroker will run just as long as a stock engine (it should, it still has all stock components...) with no major tuning issues. If you are doing the remove and replace yourself and just using a machine shop, a stroker should be a relatively inexpensive solution and should cost less than forced induction. I got 300hp (it was dyno'd) out of my 4.7. BUT, it was an expensive build as I used the aluminium big valve head and the most aggressive cam I could.
Cams. We should discuss cams. It matters not how the forced induction is produced, the camshaft should be changed to reduce the amount of overlap. With both valves open (overlap), you are dumping boost right out the exhaust. I have started inquiries with all of the Cam Manufacturers to see which one, if any, would be willing to grind a FI cam. so far, no responses. If I get any answers, I will start an additional thread.
If you are adventurous and can do your own tuning and have an engine in good condition then, perhaps, forced induction is the way for you to go. Choices, right now, are limited. Currently there are two systems available. The Sprintex and the Avenger. Now you are going to ask which one is better and I am not going to answer that. Do your due diligence. Any project needs to be thoroughly researched prior to the start. Your decision.
What boost level the Avenger kit delivers I do not know. I do know that I can get an occasional 6 pounds here at 6,500' on a day with high barometric pressure. Otherwise, it delivers 5 pounds all day, every day. Truth is, you can't compress what is not there. Here, at altitude, the air is less dense so it is more difficult to compress. Does not matter if we are talking about the SC or just the cylinder under normally aspirated conditions. As there is an average 2 pound ambient difference in absolute air pressure 14.73 verses 12.5) between my house and sea level, I would expect the SC to deliver 7 to possibly 8 pounds of boost at sea level. Depening on the barometric pressure. And on an engine with 8.8:1 compression, that is a safe place to be. I have ran as much as 12 pounds on an engine with 9:1 compression but it was difficult to control detonation. This is in the pre-PCM days of vacuum/mechanical advance distributors. Talk about a PITA...
The AEM F/IC works off of Absolute Manifold Pressure (amoung other variables) and takes a snapshot at zero rpm to determine what working altitude it is at based upon the Absolute Pressure at that point. Just like the stock PCM does. It then has a starting point on the map for fuel and ignition. After the start, the process becomes dynamic with respect to the manifold pressure.
I have attempted to be fair, accurate and unbiased in this thread. Forced Induction as an aftermarket refit is not for everyone. If Chrysler had had a forced induction setup during the XJ production years, it would be an easy add on as the factory PCM would be directly usable. As that is not the case, you will be adding a piggyback of one sort or another and, you will need to tune it. I am still refining my tune. And, I expect to continue refining it for the foreseeable future.
This thread started witht he assumption that the kit would be plug and play. This is what Sprintex intended. But, owing to the differences between the PCMs this turned out not to be the case. Are the issues resolvable? Absolutely, I have done it. I have heard a runour that Boostec is fiddling about with AEM F/ICs based upon my success with it. Be advised, if the kits now ship with an AEM F/IC in lieu of the Perfect Power and I do not know that to be the case, it will have a generic tune and you will need to tweak it in. I know the tuner and his capabilities. I can also tell you that as of today, 23 March 2012, the Installation Instructions posted on the website is incorrect. It shows a plug and play wiring harness that does not exist. These instructions, as far as I am aware, are all there is available.
But, a Forced Induction engine is going to require intervention. Lots of it. You need to pull the ignition timing back when under boost. How much you pull it back depends on the grade fuel you use and the amount of boost you have on tap. You need to kick more fuel under boost as well.
I am not here to bad mouth anyone. I am attempting to document my experience with the Sprintex kit so others can make informed decisions. As to Mr. Rimmer, I did have to part ways due to many factors. None of which are anyone's business. Mind your beeswax. But he does have a poor track record with keeping a busness alive. Fact, not opinion...
The Sprintex Supercharger, mechanically, is a bolt on kit. With the exception of the throttle cable bracket, everything is well thought out and assembles very easily. If you can replace the manifold gasket, you can do the mechanical portion of the installation. The cable bracket needs a slight tweak at install. Otherwise, the CC cable holds the throttle open a tad giving a uncontrollable idle. From an engine management standpoint, I do know that Sprintex was working with Perfect Power to develop a new`controller to replace the SMT8-L. The replacement is said to address the timing issues that I uncovered. I just could not wait on it so replaced the lot with an AEM F/IC8. The F/IC6 works as well, just does not have a frequency table. I needed the table in order to correct the speedo. To install either the Perfect POwer or the AEM is going to require you to cut into the harness. I found the AEM ECU harness for Sprintex then AEM discontinued the product due to connector availablity issues. I made exactly two harness assemblies for Sprintex/Boostec prior to the part being discontinued.
If you are not handy with wiring, avoid any form of forced induction. Or pay someone, who is qualified, to do the installation.
You will notice that I have referred to the SC kit as a "Sprintex" kit. That is because that is what it is. Designed and manufactured in Australia. Mr. Rimmer is the North American Distributor for Sprintex.
I constantly get asked it the kit is worth the money. That is a hard question to answer. It depends. It depends on the condition of your engine. You absolutely can not add forced induction to a marginal engine as it will destroy that engine. Not news. Those of us that have been around forced induction for a while (Me? Since the 60s. my Dad was an original Hot Rodder in NorCal) know only too well what happens to an engine with high miles. It will turn into a grenade. The increased cylinder pressures will take out the rod bearings if they are less than good. The mains do not fair much better either...
So, if you are in a rebuild situation, my suggestion is go displacement, with a stroker build. The stroker will run just as long as a stock engine (it should, it still has all stock components...) with no major tuning issues. If you are doing the remove and replace yourself and just using a machine shop, a stroker should be a relatively inexpensive solution and should cost less than forced induction. I got 300hp (it was dyno'd) out of my 4.7. BUT, it was an expensive build as I used the aluminium big valve head and the most aggressive cam I could.
Cams. We should discuss cams. It matters not how the forced induction is produced, the camshaft should be changed to reduce the amount of overlap. With both valves open (overlap), you are dumping boost right out the exhaust. I have started inquiries with all of the Cam Manufacturers to see which one, if any, would be willing to grind a FI cam. so far, no responses. If I get any answers, I will start an additional thread.
If you are adventurous and can do your own tuning and have an engine in good condition then, perhaps, forced induction is the way for you to go. Choices, right now, are limited. Currently there are two systems available. The Sprintex and the Avenger. Now you are going to ask which one is better and I am not going to answer that. Do your due diligence. Any project needs to be thoroughly researched prior to the start. Your decision.
What boost level the Avenger kit delivers I do not know. I do know that I can get an occasional 6 pounds here at 6,500' on a day with high barometric pressure. Otherwise, it delivers 5 pounds all day, every day. Truth is, you can't compress what is not there. Here, at altitude, the air is less dense so it is more difficult to compress. Does not matter if we are talking about the SC or just the cylinder under normally aspirated conditions. As there is an average 2 pound ambient difference in absolute air pressure 14.73 verses 12.5) between my house and sea level, I would expect the SC to deliver 7 to possibly 8 pounds of boost at sea level. Depening on the barometric pressure. And on an engine with 8.8:1 compression, that is a safe place to be. I have ran as much as 12 pounds on an engine with 9:1 compression but it was difficult to control detonation. This is in the pre-PCM days of vacuum/mechanical advance distributors. Talk about a PITA...
The AEM F/IC works off of Absolute Manifold Pressure (amoung other variables) and takes a snapshot at zero rpm to determine what working altitude it is at based upon the Absolute Pressure at that point. Just like the stock PCM does. It then has a starting point on the map for fuel and ignition. After the start, the process becomes dynamic with respect to the manifold pressure.
I have attempted to be fair, accurate and unbiased in this thread. Forced Induction as an aftermarket refit is not for everyone. If Chrysler had had a forced induction setup during the XJ production years, it would be an easy add on as the factory PCM would be directly usable. As that is not the case, you will be adding a piggyback of one sort or another and, you will need to tune it. I am still refining my tune. And, I expect to continue refining it for the foreseeable future.
This thread started witht he assumption that the kit would be plug and play. This is what Sprintex intended. But, owing to the differences between the PCMs this turned out not to be the case. Are the issues resolvable? Absolutely, I have done it. I have heard a runour that Boostec is fiddling about with AEM F/ICs based upon my success with it. Be advised, if the kits now ship with an AEM F/IC in lieu of the Perfect Power and I do not know that to be the case, it will have a generic tune and you will need to tweak it in. I know the tuner and his capabilities. I can also tell you that as of today, 23 March 2012, the Installation Instructions posted on the website is incorrect. It shows a plug and play wiring harness that does not exist. These instructions, as far as I am aware, are all there is available.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
The kit now ships with the AEM F/IC. No Perfect Power. Sprintex seemed to want to use Perfect Power to 'keep it in the family/country'. The AEM is like ?8-10 wires to tap or splice in.
As far as strokers, Increase in HP requires more fuel regardless of where it comes from. If the stroker makes 15% more HP is will require 15% more fuel. Now with the jeep already running rich, and the computer able to 'learn' a little, it usually only requires a small increase in the injectors or a MAP adjuster to get that extra fuel.
As for cams it looks like the Comp Cams #68-232-4 is the best fit. 206/212 at .050" .460"/.476" 27*overlap 113* lobe center.
If the sprintex puts out 7-8 pounds boost at sea leve then it is sized just right and is not too small as others have stated before.
As far as strokers, Increase in HP requires more fuel regardless of where it comes from. If the stroker makes 15% more HP is will require 15% more fuel. Now with the jeep already running rich, and the computer able to 'learn' a little, it usually only requires a small increase in the injectors or a MAP adjuster to get that extra fuel.
As for cams it looks like the Comp Cams #68-232-4 is the best fit. 206/212 at .050" .460"/.476" 27*overlap 113* lobe center.
If the sprintex puts out 7-8 pounds boost at sea leve then it is sized just right and is not too small as others have stated before.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
On the timing, usually most cars are timed 1* less than detonation. THe computer keeps advancing until it knocks and then retards and builds it's table. On the jeep we know that it is really retarted because we can add 6* thru the CPS mod and it runs well and doesn't detonate. The point is, most boosted engines require 1-2* retard per pound boost to keep from detonation but the jeep already has 6* to start. Think about it, it is good to 3 pounds boost and then required only another 6* retard to get it to 6-7 pounds. So do you use the CPS mod and then retard it 2*/pound boost or do you use the stock CPS position and then retard 2*/pound boost?
Root Moose
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ON, Canada
When I was messing around with Subarus a decade ago I remember some of the guys were getting custom cams ground by.... Delta Cams [?]. From what I remember they would grind whatever you wanted either using blanks or sending your cam.
Ten year old memories... take them for what they are worth.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
In a way, that is a left handed compliment to me...
Sprintex and Boostec both got upset with me for dumping the Perfect Power for the AEM. But I will state again that I know the tuner and you will need to tune on your Heep which means installing a wideband O2 as well as getting the Software from AEM. The Software is free and is available from the AEM website. There is also the issue of the comm cable. If you go with Boostec, demand the cable be included with the kit otherwise, you will need to get one.
Wiring in the AEM is not difficult, just time consuming. You will be interrupting the injectors (so, 12 connections) as well as the Cam and Crank Position Sensors (4 more connections). The Throttle Position Sensor has a T connection as does the switched 12V line. Then there are the three grounds to be made. I removed from the connectors, all of the excess, unused wires so as to make a much cleaner installation.
The O2 line no one has been successful in using it and believe me, it has been fought. Then you have the choice of wiring the external switch to be either data logger or A/B map so you can run tewo different maps.
So, 12+4+1+1+3 and the optional switch. The entire wiring job should take an hour or so depending on your particular skill set. You will need to mount the F/IC as well. I bent up a bracket and mounted the F/IC over the top of the Brake Booster.
The entire project can be bolted/wired in place is half a day or so.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
I think that Boostec only runs the 7th injector with the AEM so you don't have to splice into the stock injectors. So just 2+4+1+1+3?
Tying it into the stock injectors is not their plan. They want to leave the stock injectors, PCM and programming for the N/A running of the engine.
Tying it into the stock injectors is not their plan. They want to leave the stock injectors, PCM and programming for the N/A running of the engine.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
O-G-S,
I read an old post somewhere where you said that you or Rick thought that this kit needed to add an idler pulley for more belt wrap. Does this need this? Do you have a belt slippage issue?
Your lower boost 5-6 pounds might not be all related to your altitude and more a result of your 4.7L stroker engine and cam. Increase the displacement and increase the cam and the boost will drop. Maybe this blower is a little small for your cammed 4.7L but sized pretty good for a stock cammed 4.0L engine which it is marketed to.
Maybe a '2nd' kit For the 4.7L crowd with the larger 335 series supercharger (it is only about an inch longer) a different plenum with the bypass valve mounting moved 1 inch back cast in, and include 6 larger injectors and wire the AEM to control those six injectors as well.
I read an old post somewhere where you said that you or Rick thought that this kit needed to add an idler pulley for more belt wrap. Does this need this? Do you have a belt slippage issue?
Your lower boost 5-6 pounds might not be all related to your altitude and more a result of your 4.7L stroker engine and cam. Increase the displacement and increase the cam and the boost will drop. Maybe this blower is a little small for your cammed 4.7L but sized pretty good for a stock cammed 4.0L engine which it is marketed to.
Maybe a '2nd' kit For the 4.7L crowd with the larger 335 series supercharger (it is only about an inch longer) a different plenum with the bypass valve mounting moved 1 inch back cast in, and include 6 larger injectors and wire the AEM to control those six injectors as well.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Even if they are using the "extra injector" method, you will need to cut the injector portion of the harness as the extra injector is tied into the factory number one injector and fires along with it. The F/IC must have an injector signal in order to work. BTW, the maps I have will not work with the "extra injector" format. I use large injectors... I looked at going with the seventh injector idea and abandoned it for 6 larger injectors. I feel it is easier to control the mixture. Had the AEM been able to fire the seventh injector along with all of the factory injectors, I would have stayed with it as the wiring would have been simpler than cutting into all 6...
And, as of now, I am running a 4.0L. The Stroker was in the past and this compressor absolutely will not support anything larger than 4.0Ls. For that matter, on the Sprintex website (last time I looked) this compressor was not rated for engines of 4.0 Litre displacement... The boost I am limited to is due to the altitude at which I live. 2 pound loss, that's life... Then again, without an intercooler and the Heep's 8.8:1 CR, the boost is in the "safe to run for a long time" range.
No extra pulley was installed altough the replacement tensioner bracket is setup for a pulley. Unless, of course, Boostec takes the time to cut it off of the bracket. I would add one to my setup but for the temperature sensor that I added to the T-Stat housing for the Davies-Craig EWP115 setup. Now, there is not any room for the pulley...
It is real easy to say "well just remake the kit for a larger compressor". The demand would have to be there in order to justify the cost of a new manifold casting. Castings are not cheap...
Just wondering, are they going to provide a corrected Installation manual? The one on thier website is incorrect...
And, as of now, I am running a 4.0L. The Stroker was in the past and this compressor absolutely will not support anything larger than 4.0Ls. For that matter, on the Sprintex website (last time I looked) this compressor was not rated for engines of 4.0 Litre displacement... The boost I am limited to is due to the altitude at which I live. 2 pound loss, that's life... Then again, without an intercooler and the Heep's 8.8:1 CR, the boost is in the "safe to run for a long time" range.
No extra pulley was installed altough the replacement tensioner bracket is setup for a pulley. Unless, of course, Boostec takes the time to cut it off of the bracket. I would add one to my setup but for the temperature sensor that I added to the T-Stat housing for the Davies-Craig EWP115 setup. Now, there is not any room for the pulley...
It is real easy to say "well just remake the kit for a larger compressor". The demand would have to be there in order to justify the cost of a new manifold casting. Castings are not cheap...
Just wondering, are they going to provide a corrected Installation manual? The one on thier website is incorrect...
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
It seems like the F/IC can either run the 6 injectors or the 7th but not both. So just have to cut one injector wire. I am just trying to get a 'feel' for the AEM even if the 8 maps won't work directly on the 6.
Rick said the manifold was like $15k to make and just moving the pad/spot where the bypass goes would seem like a pretty easy mold change. Wondering minds and future projects- a rebuilt 4.7L SC ready engine by Golen and the Boostec sounds real fun.
Who knows on the manual. There needs to be corrections and additions made. Thank goodnes this is not rocket science or brain surgery.
:roll:!!
Rick said the manifold was like $15k to make and just moving the pad/spot where the bypass goes would seem like a pretty easy mold change. Wondering minds and future projects- a rebuilt 4.7L SC ready engine by Golen and the Boostec sounds real fun.
Who knows on the manual. There needs to be corrections and additions made. Thank goodnes this is not rocket science or brain surgery.
:roll:!!blubullett
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Modesto CA
Did you try a smaller pulley to increase your boot pressure? Do you know what the max RPM of the compressor is and how close you are to it?
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
The pulley is as small as is practical. It just is what it is. If this boost range is what you are interested in, then mechanically, I can vouch for the kit. It bolts in with not much more difficulty thatn replacing an exhaust manifold.
Speaking of which... There is very little clearance under the SC manifold as Sprintex has provided plenum space. Something none of the Rimmer versions ever did. As a consequence, most (if not all) aftermarket headers will not fit. Sprintex wants you to wrap the exhaust manifold with header wrap to reduce temperatures. Personally, I have a bit of an issue with header wraps as moisture tends to get trapped and rust happens...
Compressor RPM. Let us chat about that for a bit. Is it better to turn a smaller compressor faster or, is it better to turn a larger compressor slower. My opinion, is that it is better to run a larger compressor slower as it reduces the amount of power needed to turn the thing. Discharge temperatures should be lower as well. At least that is the conclusions from the research I have done.
I will say this again. Due Diligence is the key.
Make sure you know exactly what you are going to be stepping into prior to making the investment. My case is, again, unique. I provided an Engineering solution to Sprintex and they tossed a kit my way. I then re-Engineered the fuel and ignition controls to get it to run properly. I went with new injectors and the AEM F/IC8. All told, I went around $1000 including the laptop (used btw) out od pocket to resolve the SMT8-L issues.
The installation is seamless at this point. If you did not hear the compressor, you would not even know it is out there. Power is delivered when the throttle is opened without any fuss, muss or bother. You would just assume it is a nicely running Heep.
I will also mention that your cooling system need to be at the top of it's game as well. Generating extra HP will generate extra BTUs to be shed. This is not news, it is a know issue when upping the performance of any engine in any fashion. How can it not be? If you are burning more fuel, you are generating more heat. You gotta love physics...
Speaking of which... There is very little clearance under the SC manifold as Sprintex has provided plenum space. Something none of the Rimmer versions ever did. As a consequence, most (if not all) aftermarket headers will not fit. Sprintex wants you to wrap the exhaust manifold with header wrap to reduce temperatures. Personally, I have a bit of an issue with header wraps as moisture tends to get trapped and rust happens...
Compressor RPM. Let us chat about that for a bit. Is it better to turn a smaller compressor faster or, is it better to turn a larger compressor slower. My opinion, is that it is better to run a larger compressor slower as it reduces the amount of power needed to turn the thing. Discharge temperatures should be lower as well. At least that is the conclusions from the research I have done.
I will say this again. Due Diligence is the key.
Make sure you know exactly what you are going to be stepping into prior to making the investment. My case is, again, unique. I provided an Engineering solution to Sprintex and they tossed a kit my way. I then re-Engineered the fuel and ignition controls to get it to run properly. I went with new injectors and the AEM F/IC8. All told, I went around $1000 including the laptop (used btw) out od pocket to resolve the SMT8-L issues.
The installation is seamless at this point. If you did not hear the compressor, you would not even know it is out there. Power is delivered when the throttle is opened without any fuss, muss or bother. You would just assume it is a nicely running Heep.
I will also mention that your cooling system need to be at the top of it's game as well. Generating extra HP will generate extra BTUs to be shed. This is not news, it is a know issue when upping the performance of any engine in any fashion. How can it not be? If you are burning more fuel, you are generating more heat. You gotta love physics...
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
Do you know the size of the crank pulley and the size of the blower pulley?
I have Banks Revolver headers, I hope they will clear.
I have Banks Revolver headers, I hope they will clear.
blubullett
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Modesto CA
I agree with you it is much better to turn a larger compressor slower for both of the reasons you stated. Also, with the smaller pulley you a much more likely to encounter belt slip, which kills belt life and doesn't end up making you any more boost. I was just wondering if it was maxed out yet.
I have followed your thread and believe you have done the best with everything you have had to work with and the limitations of the kit as provided to you. I absoutly hated the 7th injector, but that was covered many, many pages ago.
I live in California so sadly I don't believe I will be in the market for a blower any time in the neer future, at least untill someone builds a CARB approved one.
I have followed your thread and believe you have done the best with everything you have had to work with and the limitations of the kit as provided to you. I absoutly hated the 7th injector, but that was covered many, many pages ago.
I live in California so sadly I don't believe I will be in the market for a blower any time in the neer future, at least untill someone builds a CARB approved one.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
It would pass the 'smog/emission' test in any state as the 7th inj doesn't come on until boost but unfortunately you still need a CARB EO # and sticker and to pass the visual. Maybe one day soon. Big $ to get CARB.
CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
On Sprintex site the max rpm is 15,000rpm and the 210 S/C takes 20HP at 1.4bar and discharge temp increase of 50*. The larger S/C 335 at 11,000rpm and 1.4bar takes 20HP and discharge temp increase of 45*. At faster rpm it will consume more HP and slightly hotter temps.
Larger supercharger turning slower is 5* cooler. Not significant.
Larger supercharger turning slower is 5* cooler. Not significant.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
It is an individual choice. Better than a year ago, I heard rumours that Sprintex was attempting to get the kit for the MiniCooper CARB'd. Never heard any more about it. That kit would be easier as it replaces factory components. I do not think the Jeep kit will ever be CARB'd. Just my opinion. The CARB golks do not like it when just plain folks can make adjustments to the engine. Rat Bastages.
Marty, keep in mind that the 5 Degree delta is in Celsius. No, it is not a huge difference, but when dealing with a non-intercooled Forced Induction setup, 5C is a fair old bit. It is a 9F differential.
Also, keep in mind that the maximum pressure that can be made is going to depend upon the displacement of the engine and the displacement of the compressor. The 210 is a 1.8 bar (26psi) rated compressor, for an engine of 1.8L to 3.0L. As the engine displacement increases, the ability of the compressor to provide the pressure drops. The engine is consuming more than the compressor can deliver. Simple physics.
I have attempted to be fair and unbiased in this thread. And I have gotten a fair bit of abuse for it from more than one individual. That I had to step away from the N.A. Distributor should not colour anyone's decision. Do the research for yourself and make a decision based upon the due diligence.
Caveat Emptor is all I am going to say. The kit is made in Australia by Sprintex and from a mechanical standpoint, it is a piece of automotive art. Everything bolts up properly and the only issue I ran into was the cable bracket that I have documented.
Sprintex has been in business for decades and many other folks use their rotor design. The piggyback is pre-programmed here in Colorado. I suggest, that that a wideband be installed. I also recommend the programming of this piggyback be reviewed by someone knowledgeable post install. Every vehicle is different and I hold that the tuning must be vehicle specific.
Marty, keep in mind that the 5 Degree delta is in Celsius. No, it is not a huge difference, but when dealing with a non-intercooled Forced Induction setup, 5C is a fair old bit. It is a 9F differential.
Also, keep in mind that the maximum pressure that can be made is going to depend upon the displacement of the engine and the displacement of the compressor. The 210 is a 1.8 bar (26psi) rated compressor, for an engine of 1.8L to 3.0L. As the engine displacement increases, the ability of the compressor to provide the pressure drops. The engine is consuming more than the compressor can deliver. Simple physics.
I have attempted to be fair and unbiased in this thread. And I have gotten a fair bit of abuse for it from more than one individual. That I had to step away from the N.A. Distributor should not colour anyone's decision. Do the research for yourself and make a decision based upon the due diligence.
Caveat Emptor is all I am going to say. The kit is made in Australia by Sprintex and from a mechanical standpoint, it is a piece of automotive art. Everything bolts up properly and the only issue I ran into was the cable bracket that I have documented.
Sprintex has been in business for decades and many other folks use their rotor design. The piggyback is pre-programmed here in Colorado. I suggest, that that a wideband be installed. I also recommend the programming of this piggyback be reviewed by someone knowledgeable post install. Every vehicle is different and I hold that the tuning must be vehicle specific.
- Status
