crasy1_69
NAXJA Member # 1649
- Location
- Gatesville, TX
Thanks for the info. I will have to talk to some of the dealers here.
Craig
Craig
Does the housing still clear the frame mount track bar bracket and does the steering linkage clear the pitman arm and draglink?
I also ran into an interference issue between the upper ball joint zerk fitting, and the zerk fittings on the CTMs. I ended up greasing the ball joint, and then getting a threaded plug to put into the ball joint. When I need to grease the ball joint, I will disassemble the axles and put a zerk back in.
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Getting the trackbar that long was actually one of the hardest parts of this build. It was a pain to get everything lined up, and not have anything hitting.Nice write up, and I also like that track bar bracket on the axle, that's the best length I've seen anyone get!
It looks like you were able to do that because you moved the spring seats behind the axle tube. Does this cause any problems with getting the body spring seats inline with the axle spring seats? I would think your control arms would have to be a little longer (or longer brackets fabbed onto the housing) and the axle would be setting pretty far forward if those top spring seats are in the stock position.
Does the housing still clear the frame mount track bar bracket and does the steering linkage clear the pitman arm and draglink?
Theres always a comedian somewhere:gee:Naw.......I'm sure it all hits.![]()
Im not sure I want to know where your getting your BJs. Do you ask for the full service, or just the cheap knock offs?My BJ's have always come without nipples... :gee:
Maybe I'm shopping at the wrong places? :shhh:
Im not sure I want to know where your getting your BJs. Do you ask for the full service, or just the cheap knock offs?
Ive always liked the American BJs, and not the cheaper Chinese ones. They usually last longer, and have nipples included (in a little bag of course).
I know when we did the ball joints in my mother's dodge D44, my parts guy had ball joints that protruded a little further into the knuckle and had the grease fitting come in through the side of the ball joint.
I'll have to get a part number for them...
I guess if I was paying for everything right out, it would be about $200? But thats for a full spool of wire and gas tank for the welder, and I didnt use anywhere near that much.
I always figured those grease zerks would self clearance.![]()
I always figured those grease zerks would self clearance.![]()
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/StarboardM/Front44/0074.jpg
You do realize that you take the zirc fittings out to install and then put them back in while between the inner C and the outer knuckle?
You do realize that you take the zirc fittings out to install and then put them back in while between the inner C and the outer knuckle?
Ha, I was going to say that, but I figured I'd let that go.
Yes, I realize that, but I didnt want to have to do that when/if I ever have to pull the shaft.
It was a PITA getting those zerks in while it was apart sitting in my garage, so I cant imagine trying to do it under the Jeep on the trail.
Was there anything wrong with doing it the way I did it, other then not doing it how you did it?
They are easy to put in with a 7mm wrench and it take about 3 minutes to all of them. :dunno:
I recommend to ANYONE BUILDING A FRONT DANA 44 NOT to do this and cut into the knuckle like that.