Best cutting/tapping fluid(s)

[themangeraaad]

So I have just about everything I need to finish my 1-ton steering. I got the DOM (will be direct tapping), TREs, taps (purchased from Regal cutting tools), reamer, etc... now all I need is a tap wrench and cutting fluid.

I hope to get the tap wrench some time this week, but I have been doing some research into what would be the best cutting fluid to use. I have seen some people mention using Tap Magic w/EP-Extra and other mention using a black sulfur based cutting fluid when cutting steel (though there was no specifics named).

What would be recommended for a cutting fluid? AI am hoping to keep these taps as nice as possible so I'm definitely willing to spend a bit more to get a better cutting fluid. Also, how much fluid is typically needed for cutting with something as large as a 7/8" tap? Would I need to constantly add fluid (and would likely go through up to a few oz per cut) or is adding fluid once be fine. Aka do I want a 16oz can of fluid or should I go larger or smaller than that?

Thanks :thumbup:
-Scott

 

[moto_ridah]

I used to use tap magic a lot and it works really good but I have moved on to using molybdenum based oil. I think the bottle I have right now Castrol Moly Dee.

I put it in a small container and brush it on the tap flutes, and add a couple drops where the tap is entering the base material every so often. If I am cutting something hard or a large hole I also like to take the tap out after like 3-4 rotations, clean it off and blow the hole out. You don't have to use as much moly dee so the bottle should last a while, but a bottle of lube is way cheaper than a tap so I would be fairly generous.

 

[kastein]

What we used at school was AlumTap, in its various incarnations, but I didn't do much tapping and nothing as large as TREs. I don't have any and I only do small stuff these days, so I mostly just spray some silicone lube in and hope for the best :anon:

 

[Ghost]

I use to use what ever spray fluid I could get my hands on. I have recently learned that those are not what I need and are nto a good idea. SO, I am intrested in what you guys suggest for cutting fluids.

 

[IGOCOMMANDO]

For cutting and reaming, I use Tap Magic. For tapping I use Boelube.

 

[alex22]

This is what we use for drilling, milling, tapping, threading, etc. at work. It stinks like sulfur but it does make a big difference when tapping.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=19539974&PMT4NO=0

 

[SteveT]

If you're tapping DOM (or anything hollow), put a bucket underneath, if you can tap vertically, or atleast get some fall, if you're tapping horizontally, and catch it as it comes out. Be generous with the lube, run it through a coffee filter or towel to catch the big chunks, and use it again.
I'll make you a good deal on one of these...

 

[themangeraaad]

I would love one of those but can't afford one anywhere near that price. I doubt I will be cutting threads anywhere near often enough to need that. But that would be nice.

I will be tapping DOM, and I will definitely be trying to tap vertically. I am hoping to order (or go to a shop that sells) fluid this week along with the tap wrench. I know my grandmother has a bunch of 2x4s and possibly 4x4s in her basement from before my grandfather passed away that supposedly I can go pick up any time I want. My mother just spent the wkend at the grandmother's house so hopefully she thinks to bring some/all of it back with her so I can finally build a decent bench to mount a vice on. :thumbup: then I can finally get this project going.

 

[5-90]

Especially when working in a blind hole, I'll pack the flutes on the tap with grease. It catches the chips - and brings them out with the tap.

After 4-5 full turns; the tap comes out, gets cleaned, and re-greased.

A good moly grease will usually serve.

For a cutting fluid - what are you cutting, and how are you cutting it?

 

[themangeraaad]

I am tapping threads in the DOM tube, that's all, sorry for any confusion. Tapping 7/8-18 threads for 1-ton TREs.

I will be cleaning the threads much more frequently than once every 4-5 turns. The ID of the tube I am using is smaller than what I should be. The tube has a 13/16 ID, however I have heard that it can be direct tapped so I think I will give it a shot. I will use my RHT tap for the first couple cuts, that way it will be less expensive to replace if I do end up breaking/ruining it. So right now my options are:
-Direct tap the 13/16 ID tube and just take it real slow/easy with lots of cutting fluid and hope for the best (I am strongly leaning towards this option).
-Get the tube machined to a slightly larger ID, which could be expensive, aka I would want to avoid this option if possible
-I could drill out the tube to 53/64" ID, but that ID would give 65% thread depth which seems a bit low for steering components.

 

[kastein]

The most important things I can think of to remember while tapping are - remember to back it off to break the chips and clear the threads whenever it starts getting tough to turn. Also make sure you get the cut on the end perfectly square and start the tap perfectly square.

 

[themangeraaad]

Yeah, if I cut directly into the 13/16 ID tube I will be going very slow and backing it out ever 1/4 turn (at most) even if it's not getting tough to turn.

And the only reason I haven't started this project yet is that as I mentioned, I am waiting until I get the wood from my grandmother to build a bench just so I can be sure to have a solid platform for a vice and I can be sure the tap stays perfectly square. All the benches and tables I have now are weak junk and would be useless for holding a vice/tube when tapping.

 

[5-90]

Then grease should be just fine in your tap - you'll be working slowly (by hand,) and don't forget to break the chips! That's probably the single biggest issue WRT tap longevity (threads is threads - keep the cutting edges lubricated and they'll be fine. Bind up the tap with chips, and you're in for extracting the damned thing when it breaks...

(For this purpose, I like Walton Tap Extractors - they've saved me plenty of trouble when the boys have broken taps in their jobs, primarily because they didn't listen to me. Nope, I have no trouble charging them for work when it's because they didn't listen to me, and then made some grievous mistake. I've noted that they only make the mistake once.)

 

[themangeraaad]

Any recommendation on a good moly grease to use then?

Now I just gotta do some research and figure out if I should use a grease or fluid. Thanks for the advice. Now I just gotta find myself a 1/2" chuck tap wrench at a good price

 

[beakie]

one little tip to help you get the threads started square;

if you can get on a drill press, get one of the those 4x4's and hole saw the OD of the DOM about 3" deep into the wood.
then drill the last 1" of wood slightly smaller then the tap.
slip the 4x4 onto the DOM, and start the tap into the wood so you can ensure it goes in straight, and keep it straight for the first few threads into the DOM...
once your into it a few threads, and you need to back it out anyway to clear the bits... wood comes off and you should be good to go.

 

[themangeraaad]

Interesting idea. Will have to give it a shot. Thanks!

 

[5-90]

Any recommendation on a good moly grease to use then?

Now I just gotta do some research and figure out if I should use a grease or fluid. Thanks for the advice. Now I just gotta find myself a 1/2" chuck tap wrench at a good price

Any moly with a decent body to it - I usually use Sta-Lube Red Moly (because it's the same stuff I use on my chassis.)

Engine assembly lube can work quite well - but it's got a much lighter body, doesn't catch much, and needs to be refreshed more often. Use that more for drilling than tapping - unless you need to catch the chips.

I'll use a fluid when heat is a concern - grease for lube and chip-catching, and then use a light fluid (honing oil, kerosene, or some light oil) as a wash to keep heat down.

Kerosene as a cutting fluid? Yeah - especially when machining aluminum. Works very well!

 

[IGOCOMMANDO]

Beeswax or Bow wax (used to wax archery bow strings) works well for tapping also.

 

[Westernhunter]

I use Rapid Tap Paste. It comes in a little white plastic can and I drill various size holes in the lid to just dip the tap in. Works great. I use it nearly every day, at work.

 

[Brandoson]

Rapid Tap Paste is awesome. works great for tapping and drilling. it sticks since its a paste.