AW4 to AX15 swap ECU / TCU question

I'm almost done with the writeup, just a few more pictures I want to take tonight and then proof read and post it. Like I said, I will put a link to it here when it's up. It's 11 pages right now, and will be a PDF.
 
Awesome! I'm an automatic-only gimp, but I'll proofread also if you want.
 
Ok cool. That will help a lot. I'm going to start collecting parts for the swap as it is nearly impossible to find a complete manual donor rig haha. But I'm glad someone else has the same idea I do, I'm tired of the auto :yelclap:
 
Sorry it is taking me so long to get this thing finalized. I should have a chance to snap the pictures I wanted tonight, and tomorrow hopefully I can get it posted.
 
I think your best bet would be to try and find a PCM that was physically removed from a 2000 XJ with a manual tranny. I'm gonna look for that for my '99 XJ when I look for the PCM. I know that website "says" they can program this and that, but even if it is reprogrammed the pins for the NSS and whatnot will still be on the PCM. Personally it just seems like too much to go wrong. i know it will probably take longer to find one but it would be worth it. Also, when you do get the new PCM check all of the pins to make sure none are bent or broken. Something simple like that can cause a lot of headache.
 
Alright well I completed the writeup and submitted it to the powers that be for approval and placement in the FAQ & Write Ups section. We'll see if it gets in there, otherwise, Mod tech?
 
XJ runner said:
I think your best bet would be to try and find a PCM that was physically removed from a 2000 XJ with a manual tranny. I'm gonna look for that for my '99 XJ when I look for the PCM. I know that website "says" they can program this and that, but even if it is reprogrammed the pins for the NSS and whatnot will still be on the PCM. Personally it just seems like too much to go wrong. i know it will probably take longer to find one but it would be worth it. Also, when you do get the new PCM check all of the pins to make sure none are bent or broken. Something simple like that can cause a lot of headache.
Click to expand...

Even if you do this, you are going to pay $50-100+ for a used computer, then it should be programmed with your VIN and mileage anyway ($150+). Which is why I went with the whole new reprogrammed computer for $250. You may be right, but I don't see that this is causing any problems. No pins were bent or broken on the unit i received. The NSS is not telling the computer anything anymore. I could actually just get rid of the NSS on the clutch pedal altogether now, and create a permanent connection for the starter solenoid as that is all that it is doing now is completing that circuit. I really only kept it so my wife and anyone else who drives it will be reminded not to start it in gear. you can still bump the jeep with it in gear, because you don't actually have to disengage the clutch to throw the switch, but you have to "acknowledge" the clutch pedal. I think that's enough of a safety for most drivers.
 
That is true. I meant the NSS from the auto tranny. The pins it would normally connect through will still be in the PCM from an automatic rig. But the NSS from the manual tranny shouldn't even matter. I thought all it doese is act as a circuit interruptor in the control curcuit of the ignition? It shouldn't go through the PCM. I see what you mean by having that there is good in case others want to drive the Jeep. I was thinking of just leaving that out but on second thought maybe that's not such a good idea HAHA. Also, it costs $150 to reprogram the PCM? I knew it was kinda spendy but I didn't think it would be that much. I'll have to look into the site you got the PCM from a little more. It just seems a little sketchy that all you need to do is enter "your vehicle application" and POOF here is a PCM for you. But maybe I'm just being overly cautious. I also just read your write-up. What all was required when you put in the actual clutch pedal assembly? It looked like the gas pedal is it's own thing and the brake/clutch are their own thing. I saw all the holes you drilled is it just merely making new holes so the bracket lines up?
 
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Wow. Well leave it to a dealer to do something stupid like that HAHA. But $40 is pretty reasonable. Unfortunately finding a Chrysler dealership may be a bit of a problem. Well I guess a full service shop with a DRBIII could probably do it. Otherwise it's off to that website.
 
Yeah believe me I did try calling several places and they all responded rudely or told me I was nuts. that's why I bit it and spend the coin to get it done from some place that knew what they were doing.
 
You need to call around. I had one dealer tell me they weren't reprogrammable. I think they just wanted to sell me a new one. Called another and they did it. Also, you need to go to a Jeep dealer, not just a Chrysler or Dodge dealer as they need to access the corporate servers to get the reprogram data. Just having the DRB tool won't let them do it. The dealer that I had bought parts from (25% off) lost their Jeep franchise recently so even thought they had the DRB and were a Jeep dealer they couldn't do it. I had to drive 30 minutes to a Jeep dealer. Sux.

And another thing. If you have the sentry key system (grey, fat key) un plug the sentry module before you plug a used PCM in. If you don't do that and power it up it will not let you start. Then get it reprogrammed and have them plug it back in and have them setup the sentry key.
 
Char-Broil said:
Alright well I completed the writeup and submitted it to the powers that be for approval and placement in the FAQ & Write Ups section. We'll see if it gets in there, otherwise, Mod tech?
Click to expand...

So did you also have to swap the center console? I want to keep my '99 style as it has the cup holders. And it seems nearly impossible to find a 97-01 manual center console.
 
I did not have to swap the console, I am sure you should be able to find the insert for a manual shift boot, which would most likely be a NOS or 3rd party manufactured part. I have not looked yet, I may, but I am going to be installing leather ZJ or WJ seats before too long so I will be fitting a black leather shift boot from another vehicle and likely making a custom aluminum bezel to "mount" it to the console. Either way, this will just go in place of the shift indicator where the stock auto stick came through the console. Both console structures would be the same for auto and manual.
 
Oh ok. I kinda thought that may be but I wasn't sure. I found the OEM shift boot at Team Cherokee.com pretty reasonably priced. I'm getting an AX-15 w/t-case, both drivelines, and crossmember for $300. Not too bad. And I found the master/slave cylinder with the hydraulic line onb ebay for $35. I thought it would be a little more difficult of a swap. Now the biggest thing is I hope my t-case will fit the manual because it is in great condition and I already have the SYE in it. I don't feel like taking it out and putting it in the t-case on the manual, what a pain :smsoap:
 
As long as your jeep is after I believe 92 you have nothing to worry about. Both aw4 and ax15 trans are 23 spline outputs after that. The holes I drilled in the clutch bracket were to drill out the factory welds and remove the clutch half of the assembly from the 94 brake pedal. I then lined it up on the 2000 brake pedal. I would reccomend getting a 97+ clutch pedal assembly instead it would be way easier and failproof. Sounds like a good deal on the parts. Just so you know you will need new front and rear driveshafts. Maybe consider finding a good shop to have them lengthened/shortened.
 
The drivelines that I'm getting with the AX-15 will be wrong? As far as the t-case from what I've read it seems the worst I may have to do is swap the input gear from the "medium" 23 spline to the "short" 23 spline. Pretty much just take the input gear out of the 231 on the manual and put it in mine. Oh and I saw your write up when you posted the link in this thread somewhere. A few pages back maybe? It had all your pictures and everything from the beginning I'm assuming.

Just checked. It's the link that says "build thread" under your info in these posts.
 
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