Aw4 fluid change?

[squareone97]

I know there has been plenty of back and forth on what fluid to run but I’d like to go with the factory suggestion. My issue is that I don’t know what fluid is currently in it. I’ve owned this Jeep about a year and have found more than one suspicious thing the last owner did.

Is a drain and refill with dextron enough if that’s not what is currently in it?

Any advice on inventory what fluid is currently in the transmission?

Thanks!

 

[tech1001]

I used MaxLife Multi-Vehicle is a full synthetic made by VALVOLINE

 

[cruiser54]

Drain and fill with Dex III is just fine.

 

[maxbraketorque]

I used MaxLife Multi-Vehicle is a full synthetic made by VALVOLINE

After a bunch of research on what people use in the AW4, this is what I used as well. Seems to be the safe bet for a full synthetic. After a flush and fill with this stuff, shifts are noticeably firmer. Definitely happy with the result.

 

[Tim_MN]

I have always used Dexron-II/Mercon in all 7 of my XJ's. You can find Dexron-II/Mercon everywhere, including the 3 dusty bottles at my local grocery store. I drain the pan and refill once a year. Two to three times for you should remove most of the old fluid.

Capacity for the AW-4 is 8.0 liters (16.9 pints), i.e. 8.5 quarts.

Pan Drain and Re-fill is about 3 to 4 Quarts.

 

[emx721]

@TIM_MN do you drop the pan or use the drain plug, last time i tried the drain plug i stripped it plus the washer was eaten up. I tried using a generic washer and insert the plug I killed the thread and had to replace the thread. Now i have the correct washer but am scared to touch the plug (It's an aluminum pan I believe).

 

[emx721]

Replace the pan I meant (can't edit post)

 

[XJI6191]

Two to three times for you should remove most of the old fluid.

That was my immediate thought - but Cruiser seems to think there's no need.

. . . I drain the pan and refill once a year. . .

That often? I thought the recommended interval was something silly - like every 120,000 miles, not that I'm advocating leaving it that long.

 

[freggie]

One option is to pull the return transmission fluid line from the cooler, put the end in an empty transmission fluid bottle with the capacity lines on the side, overfill the pan, turn on the jeep and shift thru the gears taking time in each. Keep an eye on the bottle you're filling up.
*remember how much you overfill the pan
Subtract how much you overfill from what's in the transmission fluid bottle you filled up and add that much of new fluid into the pan/dipstick.

So I buy a 1 gallon jug, pour it all in the transmission, and pump that much out. Total fill is 8.4 quarts, so "flushing" with 2 gallons of fluid should be good.

Or just do another drain and fill should be sufficient if it's bothering you, pan holds about 4.2 quarts but you don't get all of it out.

 

[Tim_MN]

I dropped the pan on my 2000 at 60,000 miles and found no reason to replace the filter. I might drop the pan again at 180,000 to see if the filter needs to be changed.

I use the pan drain plug and follow the severe service maintenance intervals in the owners manual and factory service manual. A few quarts of DexIII/Merc is lots cheaper than a trans rebuild. Once a year changing out about 1/2 the fluid insures clean fluid and no worries. My 1998 has 284,000 miles and the trans fluid is clean and red.

If you tow, live in a extreme cold or hot climate, or drive off-road often, follow the trans fluid service every 12,000 miles recommendation in the owners manual and factory service manual.

 

[cruiser54]

Drain and fill every 30,000 miles normal duty driving and every 15,000 miles severe duty driving.

If you look closely, you'll see that the PLUG was designed to strip before the pan. New plug with new sealing washer and you're generally good to go.

I replace the washer every time since it's a crush washer.

There is NO recommended factory interval to drop the pan and replace the SCREEN inside.

 

[75SV1]

I use regular DexIII. I will note that there are synthetic DexIII. I did ask before on the use of synthetic DexIII and about 3-5 guys use it with no issues.
I have dropped the pan on 3 XJs. The first one a '98 with say 130K. It had some black stuff in the pan. The next a '98 with 220K clean pan. My 2000 XJ clean pan. If you drop and clean the pan abut 4 quarts. The hard part is separating the pan tube from the fill tube. I put rust buster down the joint and a bit of heat.
I'm also in the camp of every year or two to change the fluid. First its easy. Next not really expensive. Also, adding a trans cooler will help.

 

[cruiser54]

Pan removal can be a real bitch.
Waste of time in my book.

 

[Woodswanderer]

Buy 16qts of fluid of choice, pull return line at the quick connect and stick it in a washer fluid jug. Start vehicle, cycle thru the gears as it pumps out 4qts, refill, repeat until running out of new fluid. For extra piece of mind and cleaning, dump a can of BG Quick Clean (or similar) into the trans and high idle up to temp, cycling through the gears every 30 seconds or so, prior to disconnect and pumping out. It’ll help dissolve any gunk in the valve body passages and trans cooler.

3/8” ID clear hose fits over the return line. You can make the washer fluid jug into a graduated container by measuring out every 32oz with a mason jar. You will need a quick disconnect tool for the return line fitting also

No muss no fuss, and all the old fluid is prepacked for disposal. Google/youtube “Gibbons flush XC70” for good instructions. Different vehicle but the procedure is the same and much easier on the XJ.


I went with BG full synthetic ATF and dumped a bottle of BG ATC in afterwards. Lost about 2-3mpg afterwards, YMMV. I’ll be doing it again when i install a Hayden 679 cooler, dropping the pan and installing new solenoids and a new filter, and will to Amsoil next time. Not thrilled that the BG ATC turned my bright red brand new fluid brown after putting it in. Top to bottom fluid condition (fresh fluid from bottle on top, white cap is final pass prior to ATC being poured in)

codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread

 

[XJI6191]

f-w-i-w, my Haynes manual (known in other circles as B-o-L, i.e. Book of Lies) suggests the filter (their word, not mine) should be changed with the fluid.

 

[cruiser54]

f-w-i-w, my Haynes manual (known in other circles as B-o-L, i.e. Book of Lies) suggests the filter (their word, not mine) should be changed with the fluid.

Totally wrong as usual for them. They have the 4.0 engine plug wiring diagram wrong also.