- Location
- San Diego
the company is Revolution gear and axle.
they don't have an exact date yet, but it will be in the next couple of months.
they don't have an exact date yet, but it will be in the next couple of months.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
at what point are strong axle shafts helpful/needed
- Thread starter md21722
- Start date
Jbh97009
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, Oregon
Sweet!!!! 
- Location
- San Diego
they were supposed to start selling shafts a month ago but apparently they had some holdups in the production line.
I'm not sure I understand. If you have the hub out swapping an axle shaft is seconds?
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
actually...
i find it much easier to pull the 3 hub bolts and swap shafts than pull the axle nut off on the trail. and my big torque wrench doesnt come on the trail with me. your far more likely to break a shaft than hurt a hub if your buying quality parts. if you are like me, its easy. all of my spare axle shafts are ready to rock with a hub already bolted on... no need to ever pull a hub from the shaft until i get back to the bat cave and restock my spares.
i find it much easier to pull the 3 hub bolts and swap shafts than pull the axle nut off on the trail. and my big torque wrench doesnt come on the trail with me. your far more likely to break a shaft than hurt a hub if your buying quality parts. if you are like me, its easy. all of my spare axle shafts are ready to rock with a hub already bolted on... no need to ever pull a hub from the shaft until i get back to the bat cave and restock my spares.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Revisiting the original posters original question:
My general rule is this: 32's and down stock shafts are fine. At 33's I want alloy shafts. Thats for california wheeling, some go fast, some rocks, some mountains, no mud.
I'd go as high as 31's on stock gears, but by 32's, I want to install some 4.56 gears, and for 35's 4.88's or 5.13's.
I have owned 6 XJ's in about 10 different configs, and built another half dozen or so with other people. My experience has drawn the lines above.
My general rule is this: 32's and down stock shafts are fine. At 33's I want alloy shafts. Thats for california wheeling, some go fast, some rocks, some mountains, no mud.
I'd go as high as 31's on stock gears, but by 32's, I want to install some 4.56 gears, and for 35's 4.88's or 5.13's.
I have owned 6 XJ's in about 10 different configs, and built another half dozen or so with other people. My experience has drawn the lines above.
I agree with some points cal but here in New England I prefer stock shafts and stock gears in a "wheeler" lots of wheel speed has killed 2 dana 30 and one dana 35. Surprisingly my 8.25 has held up quite well. My reason for the stock gears and shafts is ease of finding spares. I went through to many axle shafts and unit bearings (that does include the chromoly axle shafts I found at the junkyard) before I "rebuilt" the dana 44 I'm running. The 3.55 gears suck and the stock shafts aren't the best but I had great luck running abs shafts. This is wheeling with a lot of mud and rocky terrain.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
This makes no sense at all.
Why would stock gears make spares any easier? Are you setting up gears on the trail? And carrying spares?
Same with stock vs alloy shafts in reference to spares. You'd still source the same stock spares if you had alloys, you'd just break a lot less often. They are a bolt in replacement, but 30% stronger..
I guess the fact you were wheeling on a dana 35 at all tells me you east coast kids just don't play as hard as we do. I don't think I've seen a dana 35 permitted on a run in 10 years..
I killed two Dana 30 3.55 gear sets it was far easier and cheaper for me to go to the u pull and grab another axle than it would have been to regear it. And yes I carried spares for axle shafts. Once again it was easier and cheaper for me to pay 50$ a set with unit bearings than it was to buy chromoly axle shafts. I did find a semi built Xj in the junkyard and pulled the axle shafts out of it. I believe they were 1510? Steel. They died when the u joints caps let go.
And no not carrying spare gear sets or setting them up on the trail.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Well, then you're contradicting yourself.
MrShaft696
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Blue Bell, PA
i agree with most of all the posts in this one way or another, but where im from, i weld the caps on, and throw the stock shafts away if they break or become defective...then drop in a spare.....maybe after 10 years or so it will add up to the cost of chromo shafts etc. but I get them at the junk yard cheap.... when you tack the caps it makes it real hard to grind off and rebuild
- Location
- San Diego
or you could run a quality alloy shaft and not worry about it, not have to break on the trail and spend time swapping.
my alloy shafts are nearing 15 years old living that almost all of their life on 35"s with a healthy diet of rocks.
my alloy shafts are nearing 15 years old living that almost all of their life on 35"s with a healthy diet of rocks.
- Location
- San Diego
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
I do full throttle sand hill assaults, similar to mud. No problems D30 4.56 gears and 27 spline alloy usa shafts that are almost 10 years old with a lockright. What sucks is having to fix your junk on the trail. Do what you can to make the parts survive. Full circle clips and 760 joint stock shafts at a minimum. Doesn't cost an arm and a leg and your junk will probably survive a wheeling trip.
To answer the OP. "When you don't want your junk to break all the time."
To answer the OP. "When you don't want your junk to break all the time."
- Location
- San Diego
I have no use for a 60 in my rig. Maybe out back but up front no point. To big and I'm to low. 2.5 inches of lift and my 4.0L oil pan clearance is super tights
