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Are all aftermarket diff covers equal?

My rear RuffStuff cover went on without issue and sealed perfectly fine. I ended up using buttonhead cap screws and split lock washers and they seated in the machined slots perfectly. I also just happened uppon a flex head Allen wrench set that covered the sizes required for the diff cover, fill plug and tcase plugs as well ... works way better than a plain old Allen key.
 
I might as well throw in my 2 cts.

I bought the Solid Axle cover because:
1) They were such a great deal at the time (IIRC $65?)
2) To stiffen up the center section (they really are beefy!) because, I have an older ARB RD30 and they are known for loosing end cap bolts because of housing flex.

However, I believe you would get more rigidity by not using a gasket and using RTV instead, I am also going to replace the bolts with studs and flange nuts to get a better clamping force as I believe this would also help stiffen it up a little more....what do you guys think?

Hans
 
Oatmeal said:
I might as well throw in my 2 cts.

I bought the Solid Axle cover because:
1) They were such a great deal at the time (IIRC $65?)
2) To stiffen up the center section (they really are beefy!) because, I have an older ARB RD30 and they are known for loosing end cap bolts because of housing flex.

However, I believe you would get more rigidity by not using a gasket and using RTV instead, I am also going to replace the bolts with studs and flange nuts to get a better clamping force as I believe this would also help stiffen it up a little more....what do you guys think?

Hans
Click to expand...

^^^ Agreed - Solid diff covers are the way to go as far as effective and price. I think swapping the hardware could help with rigidity but I don't see how RTV would make a difference relative to a lube locker.

I put Solid covers on my D30 and C8.25 and they cost me around $120 for the both from Solid Axle Ind. direct through their website. One thing I did was hit them with a few coats of clear rattle can because they do tend to rust prematurely.
 
That was posted in early august on the first page of this thread...

I am kinda curious how ruffstuff covers handle 7.62 and. 454, not that I need them to deflect that (pretty sure a 22 would take out the radiator if anyone decided to shoot up my jeep), just because most other covers were vulnerable to it.
 
My thinking is that a gasket (don't know about the lube lockers....have never seen one up close) are compressable and will allow some movement between the cover and housing, where as RTV is pretty much metal to metal with an all so thin skin between the two (pretty much glues them together too).....I have never had an issue with leaks using RTV.

Just my opinion, though :)

Hans
 
souske said:
Any beefy diff cover will stiffen the centersection

Throw a good magnet in the bottom and call it done!

May as well order up a lubelocker, they kick butt
Click to expand...

I second lube locker, Im planning to put them on both of my diffs soon.

As far as rigidity is concerned, are there any websites that show a comparison of how well diff covers hold up to twisting of the axle tubes? I just ask because I want to buy the best that I can and it seems to me that the design of ARBs cover would "stiffen" more than the others (due to the sideways "U" design of the ARB). I know that I could truss the d30, but I dont do that much hardcore wheeling (or have that large of tire size) to justify the cash for that system. Heck, justifying $180 for the ARB diff cover is pushing it for me.
 
I suspect the weak point with regard to twisting of the axle tubes depends strongly on what diff you're speaking of. For instance, an unmodified Ford 8.8 will twist the tubes out of the casting in stock form due to the non-welded tubes (they're pegged in place) and I'd bet on it being nearly impossible to twist a 14 bolt tube out or twist the housing even with no diff cover at all.
 
If you hit the dif hard enough to damage any diff cover, chances are you will have serious damage to the rest of the housing. Especially if you are talking about a d30.

The real reason to run a thick cover is to help prevent gear deflection and to keep the lip from peeling when you slide it over rocks. In that regard, I think that ruffstuff has it pretty well sewn up.
 
kastein said:
I suspect the weak point with regard to twisting of the axle tubes depends strongly on what diff you're speaking of. For instance, an unmodified Ford 8.8 will twist the tubes out of the casting in stock form due to the non-welded tubes (they're pegged in place) and I'd bet on it being nearly impossible to twist a 14 bolt tube out or twist the housing even with no diff cover at all.
Click to expand...

I understand. I had an 8.8 swapped into my YJ and had the tubes welded when I did. Im more referring to the d30 for the purposes of the topic. I can probably get away with a Riddler over the ARB, I was just wondering if there was any real difference or if its hype. Over on another forum website, they seem to favor ARB for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

rockclimber said:
If you hit the dif hard enough to damage any diff cover, chances are you will have serious damage to the rest of the housing. Especially if you are talking about a d30.

The real reason to run a thick cover is to help prevent gear deflection and to keep the lip from peeling when you slide it over rocks. In that regard, I think that ruffstuff has it pretty well sewn up.
Click to expand...

Lip peeling is my main concern, mainly in the rear. I say that because Im more likely to bash into an object with the front or peal the rear coming off an object. As I said before, Im curious about the claims that ARB makes vs. other brands (RuffStuff, Riddler, etc). Ive seen the "torture test" with the Riddler, which makes them a contender for me.
 
We are really splitting hairs at this point.
If maximimum rigidity is your concern, countersink the cover

Ruffstuff can be welded to ( tie into a truss, or attach ram assist) whereas welding to a cast cover would make me nervous.

Buy whatever you can get the best deal on, spend part of the savings to join Naxja
 
The ruffstuff cover has a 1/2" ring, it definitely has the best resistance to peeling. I have dragged my 8.25 over a lot of rock, there isn't any paint left on the bottom half of the cover, but it doesn't leak.
 
ran RS cover on the old rig with 30/8.25 combo, used rtv, and after every trip they would leak untill i re sealed em, there now on a friends rig with lube lockers and are the only thing on his rig that dosnt leak, now running RS D60 covers on the new rig and havent leaked a drop with the diff covers missing the paint off the lower half
 
+1 for Ridler - I'm happy with them and only have RTV sealing with no leaks, no steering clearance issue.

Ridler puts the plugs up higher so you can run some more oil inside. In my case this is good, but maybe not for everyone. Guessing the windage in there has to get a little crazy at 70+ mph?

I think ARB has nice products, but what they charge for certain products is excessive IMO. Most the solid covers here will match all the claims ARB has made - all you're missing is a dipstick and that might be good.
 
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