ARB vs. OX
- Thread starter wingnutooa
- Start date
- Location
- Camden, SC
Good advise!
wingnutooa
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nashville TN
what sort of bad install? just make sure all of the tollerances are where they need to be.
i setup my aussie's and i've done plenty of sets of gears.
i setup my aussie's and i've done plenty of sets of gears.
loki_racer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
Ox: Cable has to be dialed in. I'm not an expert on this as I've never done it, but I know that the cable has to be adjusted correctly or there can be critical failure.
ARB: Air compressor and actuator (not sure what the part is called that actually activates the locker) have to be adjusted correctly. If not, critical failure can occur.
Basically, for me, it comes down to, why would you buy top of the line products and then have a buddy install it that might know nothing about selectable lockers. To each his own though.
My personal preference would be lunchbox for the rear, selectable (Super 30 kit with ARB) for the front.
ARB: Air compressor and actuator (not sure what the part is called that actually activates the locker) have to be adjusted correctly. If not, critical failure can occur.
Basically, for me, it comes down to, why would you buy top of the line products and then have a buddy install it that might know nothing about selectable lockers. To each his own though.
My personal preference would be lunchbox for the rear, selectable (Super 30 kit with ARB) for the front.
256offroad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville Alabama
biggest problem here is you can run stock shafts as spares.... i think its a huge waste imho to go to 30 spline.
Team Willys
www.rocksolidfab.com
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
Have you ever installed ARBs??? Just wondering because there are no "adjustments". The only way you would have adjustments is if you were running a different compressor and needed a regulator before the "actuator" (which its really called an air solenoid). But even that isn't hard, you just want to limit it to 100 PSI. Worse thing that can happen is the seals leak, which isn't "critical failure". Im not trying to be rude or mean, but it doesn't sound like you are familiar with them, in which case you don't really have a valid piece of advice on the product itself.
You're pretty much correct with the Ox, if the cable isn't right, it may not engage all of the way which can cause the locking ring to strip out.
Im torn on the super 30 vs 27 spline... IF you get the 30 spline stubs and unit bearings to go with the 30 spline inners it makes a lot more sense (but this is VERY pricey). But the problem is like what David said, if you break one you are screwed unless you bought 2 sets, in which it's double very pricey lol. While the 30 spline stuff is a lot stronger on paper, it's still breakable, and if you do manage that feat, your trip is over until you can get another one. With the 27 spline locker, at least you can throw in a stock shaft and keep having fun!
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thechief86
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- White House, TN
i say weld the rear, and detroit for the front. it's predictable, strong, and acts the same way EVERY SINGLE TIME. if you break something, go get some stock open diff parts from a junk yard, throw them in, and weld 'em up. you won't break the detroit, more likely other D30 parts, although you could throw enough money at it to either make it strong, or justify a D44 swap.
EDIT: i DD'd my last (5spd) xj with a welded dana 35 and 31's. it was fine on the street(only squeaked the tires in parking lots), and did exactly what i wanted on the trails without any problem.
EDIT: i DD'd my last (5spd) xj with a welded dana 35 and 31's. it was fine on the street(only squeaked the tires in parking lots), and did exactly what i wanted on the trails without any problem.
loki_racer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
Aren't the shims on an ARB installed differently than most setups? No I haven't setup them up, and I said that already. I do know a couple people that had them installed by people with tons of experience, but no ARB experience and both rigs have had nothing but problems with them. My only experience with ARB or OX are watching them fail, all three installs weren't done by what I guess I would call recommended installers. That's why my recommendation is to have them installed by someone with experience. Obviously, we all know either works well, that's why I can't recommend the products, just info about the install.
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Team Willys
www.rocksolidfab.com
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
Gotcha. Like I said, I wasn't trying to be rude or anything, just trying to keep it to facts instead of hearsay for the purpose of providing a good quality consensus on which selectable locker is best as far as reliability, durability, and price are concerned. The ARBs do shim on the outside of the carrier bearings, which IMHO makes setup easier most of the time. The problem is that the shims are supposed to go between the bearing and the seal housing (goes around the locker outside of the ring gear side carrier bearing). If you put too many shims in there, the air port in the locker becomes covered by the seal itself, or worse, is comepletely outside the seal in which case it doesn't work at all, or it leaks. So the trick is to put only a couple small shims, or one thicker one between the seal housing and the bearing. If it needs more to get the backlash correct, put more shims on the outside of the seal housing. The installation manual doesn't say anything about that... just says to put them between the seal housing and the bearing, but putting too many causes issues like you say. But, if you are experience with ARB's installation specifically, its not an issue.
wingnutooa
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Nashville TN
the E-Locker is about the only one i have not heard horror stories about.
may go that way,
and i'm welded right now, i dont have any worries about it breaking because of they way i wheel but i'm wearing the shit out of my 900$ mud terrains DDing it.
and i'm not going selectable up front just yet, only in the rear. front will keep the aussie
may go that way,
and i'm welded right now, i dont have any worries about it breaking because of they way i wheel but i'm wearing the shit out of my 900$ mud terrains DDing it.
and i'm not going selectable up front just yet, only in the rear. front will keep the aussie
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
Frank Z has run the E-Lockers for some time. He speaks well of them.
Built2Flex
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- d
waste of what? Time? Money?
RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
I would say, do the Yukon Zip locker. Saves you about 200$ or more, and for 49$ you can get a lifetime warranty direct from Yukon...
As for the "master" shim between the race and seal housing. You Should be able to stack all the shim needed for preload and backlash in that area. I only ever had issues with one brand/boxed companys gear set when mixed with a ARB. Otherwise you just use the one master (thick) shim and then add to it for your adjustments.
Robert
As for the "master" shim between the race and seal housing. You Should be able to stack all the shim needed for preload and backlash in that area. I only ever had issues with one brand/boxed companys gear set when mixed with a ARB. Otherwise you just use the one master (thick) shim and then add to it for your adjustments.
Robert
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256offroad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville Alabama
money yes.... time... sure cause once you grenade a 30spline shaft. your days over unless you carry spare 30 spline shafts.
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