anyone that lives in sacto area down to test drive a vibe situation? im all out

ok, i tried to run it in front wheel only. but by the time i got it to the gas station i noticed my duct taped gatorade bottle situation was leaking profusly out of the rear tail cone. i went straight home. this was less than a 1/4 mile altogether but i was about a quart low in the t case . i never went over 25, so i doubt i hurt the case, but it did remind me that soon after getting the jeep that the t case was about a qt or more low in the t case, and i had by that point put about 2-3k miles on the jeep. so is it possibly that during that time i could have stretched the chain? and are vibrations a symptom of a stretched chain? anyway i filled it up with dec III fluid again. but now im afraid to test drive it . what is the best way to cover up the tail cone, or is there no way to drive it in 2 front wheel without losing all that fluid? i do sometimes get a sort of clunk when shifting into gear. but after doing the control arm bushings its virtually gone. ive even taken it out a few times. ive put like another 2k since the time i filled the tcase up....
 
one more thing, i dont know if this helps, but i had the vibes with the 35 and i still have them with the 44, so im hoping i can rule out the ring and pinion, anything to do with the axle,etc. i put in new spiders and greased the hell outta the bearings and everything, and carefully torqued the ring gear retaining bolts and locktight and the bearing retaining clips as well along with new bolts that hold the flange on each end of the axle that holds the shafts in, and from what i can tell the brakes are great...
 
You are restless.

blondejoncherokee said:
that soon after getting the jeep that the t case was about a qt or more low in the t case, and i had by that point put about 2-3k miles on the jeep. so is it possibly that during that time i could have stretched the chain? and are vibrations a symptom of a stretched chain?
Click to expand...

What kind of t-case you have ? 231 or 242 ?

No, you did not hurt the chain unless you drove those 2-3k in 4wd.
In rear wheel drive the chain is not engaged, so no, it can not cause vibrations.

One more thing, you mentioned a locked, did you put it in ?
 
i have a lockright for the 30. i was gonna swap it in a few months ago, but now i want to wait until the vibes are gone...i have the 231.
 
sounds like a driveshaft u-joint with the only on acceleration symptoms...

id be willing to ride in your junk, but finals week is next week - as is my seniopr project is due, and my baja project is due...

do you have u-bolts on the d44 pinion or yoke straps?

the torque spec on the u-bolts on pinion yokes is about 15 foot-lbs... this is because any tighter, and you start crushing needle bearings...

I once put in 4 pinion yoke u-joints in like 2500 miles before someone told me this, and (allthough I got really good at it) I felt really dumb... I havent had to change a pinion u-joint since (other than from direct rock contact)...

Id spring for the better SYE personally, then throw your front driveshaft in the rear and run around the block...

but im the kinda guy that sees 'heavy duty' and gets excited :D
 
i have the straps actually...i need to do the bolts soon enough....but i did have the straps a little on the tight side. the u joints are brand new and have like no play whatsoever. yah i understand next week is finals. i wanna do the sye anyway, so im just gonna do that....im looking for a seal for the yoke style output for the rear shaft like that austrailian guys write up but so far no dice. if someone would be down t ride around in my junk thatd be awesome if i still gots vibes after the sye. if anyone knows where to get that seal...i meassaged the company in aus. where he got his from...
 
by the way thanks for all the advice so far guys, its helped alot!
 
alright, i have a yoke now that will fit a front ds(free), the RE seal housing(40$), some 3/8" fine thread bolts, have a ton of tap and die sets at the parents house in the bay i need to pick up and a free front ds that i took to that driveline shop in west sac of houston st to have them check it out, balance it and throw a new pinion side u joint which should only cost about 25$.i have some 2 and 4* steel shims, rough country shackles and im ready to pull that t case drop. i am now excited that ill hopefully have no vibes with this sye once i put it in(hopefully monday???) and now i want to finally start saving up for my next project: 34" swampers and 4.88s. im thinking about staying open/open with the 34's so i dont break stuff, at least up front, but im thinking 4.88s and 34's will take me more places than my 31's and 3.55's....
 
actually itll prob be more like 33's since i barely clear the garage door as is, i hate stupid one car garages living downtown, i need to move to the burbs and get a real garage...
 
ok, i got all the peices together to do the hack n tap to fit a front shaft. im probably gonna do it in the next week, just got the output seal to match the RE housing and the yoke, and they fit.and they were only 1.50$ on etrailer.com and they were for 3000lb tractor axles, part number sl150. and the RE seal housing was 40$, some bolts and locktite, had the new shaft balanced and a new u joint put on, all for under 120$ for everything!
 
im trying to get ready. im not gonna try to get work off(i work fri/sat) until i actually get the sye on a make sure it works, so i may not make it, or i may just head up sun/mon and run it sunday, camp somewhere on it, wake up mon, run sliuckrock, and then head home, plus the 19th is my b day weekend....
 
blondejoncherokee said:
ok, i got all the peices together to do the hack n tap to fit a front shaft. im probably gonna do it in the next week, just got the output seal to match the RE housing and the yoke, and they fit.and they were only 1.50$ on etrailer.com and they were for 3000lb tractor axles, part number sl150. and the RE seal housing was 40$, some bolts and locktite, had the new shaft balanced and a new u joint put on, all for under 120$ for everything![/QUOTE

Did you happen to use the tom woods slip yoke that accepts the 1310 U-joints with this set up. If not what yoke are you using? I haven't found a seal yet that fits around this damn yoke. I need a seal with an innner diameter of 1.46 and the one you bought is 1.50. That may be close enough.

I hope it all works out for ya.
Click to expand...
 
i got the yoke from a buddy. i can get you the seal if you need it, at etrailer.com the part number was listed in my last post, the seal fits perfectly in the RE housing and perfectly around the yoke. like i said, its part number sl150 i believe at etrailer.com, its a 1.50$, and its for tractor axles so you know its strong enough. it fits perfect. ill be installing it all this sunday hopefully...the tom woods yoke and the one i got are basically the same peice i beliee. it accepts the front driveshaft just fine.....
 
almost done with the hack n tap with the yoke...had the free front shaft rebalanced and a new u joint at the pinion put on, also had to buy another yoke(the one i got for free was shot, twisted splines) so i should be finishing the project this week after setting the pinion angle getting the yokes to line up so the u joints fit right....
 
im saying it again, i need someone to come over and check out my rig, if you/we can figure out whats causing the vibes ill be so freakin stoked! i have the hack n tap done and over with, finished it all late tonight. i got the pinion angle at about 9-10* and the driveshaft is about 12. i still have vibes. the same vibes as before. does anyone have any idea what it could be anymore? maybe internal t case ? i havent pulled the t case drop yet, but i plan to, then measure the driveshaft angle and maybe throw on the RC shackles i picked up if need be.
this is me yelling at the damned jeep...
HERES WHAT I THINK IT COULD BE NOW:
-INTERNAL T CASE ISSUE LIKE BENT OUTPUT SHAFT, BUT HOW WOULD I KNOW?
-THE TRANNY MOUNT MAY BE BAD(I REPLACED IT WITH ONE I FOUND ON THE GROUND AT PICKNPULL, MAYBE BAD TOO???).
-PULL THE T CASE DROP AND MAYBE THROW ON THE SHACKLES IF THE NEW DRIVESHAFT ANGLE IS TOO MUCH MORE THAN THE PINION ANGLE.
- I HAVE NO IDEA, IM ALL OUT....

- im thinking ill pull the t case and swap in a junk yard case(redo the hack/tap too) if a new tranny mount and pulling the t case drop doesnt work. if that doesnt work then the leaf springs. if that doesnt work maybe swap out the tranny? i have no idea. for all i know it could be some random thing im missing, i have recently changed both front hubs and brakes and the rear brakes are good, along with everything else in the suspension....
 
Havent followed this thread for a while but have you thought of a slightly bent rim. I have had this happen twice and the tire shop never picked up on it when they balanced them. Best thing to do is swap the tires and rims with someone elses jeep and see if it go's away. If you are in the bay area anytime soon I would definately help ya out. Get rid of that tranny drop and adjust your pinion via shims and/or shackles. Just remember to do ONLY ONE thing at a time then test drive so you dont end up chasing your tail.
 
Last edited:
Haven't followed this in a while but you did try driving it with the front driveline removed?

Also, removing the t-case drop will help your clearance and your front driveline angles.
 
the bent rim thing is a good idea. i would be down to try that. i should take it in again for another balance and have them check the rims too...
 
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