• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Alexia's 1997 Comanche - 4.7L Stroker

Found a decent shifter with no burn marks that was nasty dirty and the sliders would jam. The pieces can be slid out to clean them thoroughly.
gallery_1_12_211649.jpg


I was driving around with out a shifter handle. Much better now!
gallery_1_12_195668.jpg


My rare find! RockinMJ(On Comanche Club) was asking me about proportioning valves and I said I would go to the junk yard to grab him the correct one for his conversion. That led me to scoring a set of rare 1997 only AB model cruise control switches I needed on a Jeep that just arrived in the yard. They came from the same Jeep as the shifter bezel. I cleaned up the switch portion and swapped nice button plates from a pristine pair of switches. Cruise control turns on now, but still does not work due to a vacuum leak.
gallery_1_12_192343.jpg
 
Should fit 98 as well according to my info - I had to find a set for my 98 to make cruise work.
 
So I know I missed it but what color is the exterior getting? Bad ass build. Hope to see it in person some day.
 
Should fit 98 as well according to my info - I had to find a set for my 98 to make cruise work.

I have the same part number ending in AB, AC, and AD. AB is listed as 1997 only and AC is listed as 1998 only. Neither of my AC or AD switches will work on my 1997.

So I know I missed it but what color is the exterior getting? Bad ass build. Hope to see it in person some day.

Still mostly undecided. I am toying around with a matte black with light orange/peach pin stripes right now.
 
I stopped by the Lander's DCJ dealership after the junkyard on Saturday. It was a $20 donation to enter a vehicle into the show. I figured why not just to be silly since I was doing to toss in the donation anyway.(They were giving away raffle prizes and free food!) Just imagine this mismatched paint, unpainted on some parts, faded paint, missing half the interior, various junk yard Comanche parts in the bed, and a bunch of loose tools on the passenger seat.

Tossed the hood up to show off the shiny engine bay to distract the judges.(To also hide the LKQ marks on the hood!)
k836yzR.jpg


The competition in the off road category was FIERCE! So much I must have scared them all off.
K5EHjnx.jpg


My shiny engine bay distraction plan must have worked. First place and a t-shirt just for showing up.
XJVptK7.jpg


n9Mi85V.jpg


Wo7jhKU.jpg


7aYjbJB.jpg


ITVwGjs.jpg


M1riLJk.jpg


MjuZPL7.jpg
 
There is something cool about seeing a vehicle under construction. Once they get paint, many have no idea what all it took to make it look the way it does.

Good Job Alex!
 
Holy big pictures Batman! Nice job!
 
It's looking great. How is the forced induction plan coming?
 
It's looking great. How is the forced induction plan coming?

I was originally going to use a AEM F/IC, but they no longer make the patch harness. However, Split Second makes a setup with a patch harness now that requires no wiring and just plugs into the ECU. I am researching more into that at the moment.

The first item I need to do is get the AW4 valve body reworked. I am considering finding a low mileage AW4 to swap over at the same time. Then there is the issue of the rattling and grinding transfer case chain. Just a few things to work out in the power transmission department before I get to forced induction.
 
Actually that tire is the current JK Rubicon tire. They call them a KM but they are just a tick different but they do resemble the old KM's more than the KM2.

After checking several tire distributors in middle TN, I only found 1 tire and they are expensive. You can buy Goodyear M/TR Kevlars for less.

They rub some at full steering lock. The tread pattern is unique to Jeep and designated DT for Different Tread.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92619_004_07.htm

So, what you're saying is that I need to find some JK take-offs and get different wheels. :)
 
I was originally going to use a AEM F/IC, but they no longer make the patch harness. However, Split Second makes a setup with a patch harness now that requires no wiring and just plugs into the ECU. I am researching more into that at the moment.

The first item I need to do is get the AW4 valve body reworked. I am considering finding a low mileage AW4 to swap over at the same time. Then there is the issue of the rattling and grinding transfer case chain. Just a few things to work out in the power transmission department before I get to forced induction.

For some reason I keep forgetting about the tuning nightmare of the OBDII (plans for my 92 are much simpler). I looked at the Split Second briefly, seems legit. Hopefully they recognize that there is some potential market if they prove they have an easy management system, and continue with the product. I know more people would venture into forced induction if we had an easy plug and play kit.
 
So, what you're saying is that I need to find some JK take-offs and get different wheels. :)

If you can find them for cheap, go for it.

For some reason I keep forgetting about the tuning nightmare of the OBDII (plans for my 92 are much simpler). I looked at the Split Second briefly, seems legit. Hopefully they recognize that there is some potential market if they prove they have an easy management system, and continue with the product. I know more people would venture into forced induction if we had an easy plug and play kit.

I am not afraid of modifying wiring harnesses or making significant modifications. What I am afraid of is cutting up the wiring harness for one fuel/timing solution, finding out it sucks, and then splicing in another leaving it in a mess.
 
I really have not done much to it in the past two months. I needed to build a new computer which was been taking precedent over my slush funds, but I did make an update video over the week end. Skip to 3:55 for running and driving. I ordered Hot Rod Flatz in Olive Drab Green. So the color is decided and I will be painting 09/07 through 09/15 which gives me nine days to work on it. I never painted an entire vehicle before so it will be fun. :D

 
that looks a wee bit faster than 45 and you missed 2 stop signs, LOL, sorry my LE side ;)

Truck looks and sounds great, I need to build a stroker
 
that looks a wee bit faster than 45 and you missed 2 stop signs, LOL, sorry my LE side ;)

Truck looks and sounds great, I need to build a stroker

"Sorry officer, I promise it won't happen again."

It is sheriff jurisdiction out here for speeding and they keep such an accurate monthly rotation on their hiding spots that all the locals do the exact speed limit on certain days. The Huntsville cops, well, they are sneaky, but generally seem to only care about keeping reckless and DUI drivers under control.

Yes, definitely build a stroker. Start by getting a spare engine block and work from there. Get the block machining work done professionally. The rest is easy to do since the 4.0L is such a simple engine. I never built an engine before though I only needed to look up directions on rocker preload and the proper way to install pistons with their rings.
 
that looks a wee bit faster than 45 and you missed 2 stop signs, LOL, sorry my LE side ;)

Truck looks and sounds great, I need to build a stroker

I'm glad somebody else saw that!

I'm still waiting for that boost Alexia. My buddy was trying to convince me to put a VDub heart in the YJ. Was talking some pretty impressive numbers for a different breed of angry squirrels. Still want to supercharge the Rocket first though.
 
I'm glad somebody else saw that!

I'm still waiting for that boost Alexia. My buddy was trying to convince me to put a VDub heart in the YJ. Was talking some pretty impressive numbers for a different breed of angry squirrels. Still want to supercharge the Rocket first though.

I am doing the research on it still! Right now it looks like I will only be able to run roughly 6 to 8 PSI of boost reliably on 93 octane gas since it is already high compression at 10:1. Which makes the M90 supercharger I picked up rather over sized for what I need. Even those current decisions are up in the air until I start tuning the stroker for a naturally aspirated base tune. I plan to grab an AEM F/IC since they can be bought on sale for around $350. Much cheaper than the cost of tuning and a hand held flasher.
 
What cam do you have? static CR and dynamic CR?
 
What cam do you have? static CR and dynamic CR?

Bore: 3.935"
Stroke: 3.895"
Combustion Chamber: 55cc
Deck Clearance: .0015"
Gasket Thickness: 0.051"
Gasket Bore: 4"
Piston Dish: 21cc
Connecting Rod Length: 6.123
MOPAR 29AD
Cam Intake Duration: 248
Cam Lobe Separation Angle: 108

SCR calculates to 9.94:1, though compression test indicates it right at 10:1. Though if the gauge was 0.006% inaccurate that would not surprise me. :p
DCR at 8.67:1
 
Back
Top