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Aftermarket Headlights

I'm pretty sure there's at least one thread on about every light upgrade available if you search around here a bit- harnesses (who sells what, how to make your own), housings, bulbs, HID, projectors, pictures, thoughts, opinions, how to aim them... and so on.
 
I'm pretty sure there's at least one thread on about every light upgrade available if you search around here a bit- harnesses (who sells what, how to make your own), housings, bulbs, HID, projectors, pictures, thoughts, opinions, how to aim them... and so on.

thanks.... I searched to see what I could find - was basically wanting some sites where I could find something and basic info... appreciate the help :)
 
i'm looking at 6k and under lighting...

When converting to halogens its almost trivial to base your decision on how much light is produced. I mean what ever K you get, it is going to be like 10000X brighter than halogens. You are splitting hairs in my opinion.
 
Ok, BUT by that logic there's nothing wrong with a 30,000k HID kit either because it produces ~2000lm ... which is more than twice a halogen's 900lm. Of course, I dare you to drive down a highway at night with dark blue HIDs lighting your path. You'll go mental after a few miles because the human eye is most comfortable with something that resembles daylight. Obviously, I'm not saying 8,000k is the same as 30,000k, BUT it is darker than 4300-6000k, and it will affect your driving comfort at night.
 
Ok, BUT by that logic there's nothing wrong with a 30,000k HID kit either because it produces ~2000lm ... which is more than twice a halogen's 900lm. Of course, I dare you to drive down a highway at night with dark blue HIDs lighting your path. You'll go mental after a few miles because the human eye is most comfortable with something that resembles daylight. Obviously, I'm not saying 8,000k is the same as 30,000k, BUT it is darker than 4300-6000k, and it will affect your driving comfort at night.

I guess its just personal preference then. I would sacrifice 400lm for a little blue tint, which IMO is very reasonable to drive with. But im sure others will stick with 6k or less for maximum brightness, and even others will go with 30k for the mega blue look. Either way, you are going to trade brightness for blueness. Jst depends on what you are going for.

(or if you are ricer, then you HAVE to get 30k):twak:
 
IMO, 90bucks is too much for those headlights. I would go with autopals.



Ebay, wreckers, teamcherokee.com (email them, they might have them).

Thanks, I'll check it out.

As for HIDs, I had 4500k on my old car and they were perfect (in projectors). They had a slight blue from a distance and angle, but pure white up close. I really dislike anything above 6000k as I just think people are trying for the blue look which can be achieved at a lower K with the proper hardware. I got mine at ddmtuning.com and not only are they a great price, they also come with a lifetime warranty. Straight plug-n-play...took about 30 mins to install everything.
 
-- I saw this thread and had to add in my experiences with them. From what i skimmed thru, i noticed that NO ONE mentioned the MOST important thing....

-- ALL OF THE WIRING NEEDS TO BE UPGRADED,, ALL OF IT!!

-- If you dont swap out the stock wiring,, or in some cases you use the "wires included" way,, DONT!! There NO better then stock.

-- OK, i guess i just cant say upgrade your wires and then leave,, SO,, lets say i took a 100% stock XJ, and took out the stock headlight wiring and LEFT IN the old, old lights that still work,, as soon as im done with the NEW wiring, you wont believe the difference even when your standing right there!!

-- Long story short,, if u stick in ANY H4 bulb OR ANYTHING with higher lighting power,, you MUST upgrade those skinny wires and replace it all with some nice thick wires,,, and while ur at it,, make a second ground for each light and or relay, AND CLEAN each connection and make sure the connection is SOLID,,, then on EVERY ground wire, GRIND TO BARE METAL FOR MAX CONTACT on each and every ground that you have.

-- Stainless washers and lock washers are always good to use if ur screwin down a ground connection.

-- Hope that helped!!!
 
-- I saw this thread and had to add in my experiences with them. From what i skimmed thru, i noticed that NO ONE mentioned the MOST important thing....

-- ALL OF THE WIRING NEEDS TO BE UPGRADED,, ALL OF IT!!

-- If you dont swap out the stock wiring,, or in some cases you use the "wires included" way,, DONT!! There NO better then stock.

-- OK, i guess i just cant say upgrade your wires and then leave,, SO,, lets say i took a 100% stock XJ, and took out the stock headlight wiring and LEFT IN the old, old lights that still work,, as soon as im done with the NEW wiring, you wont believe the difference even when your standing right there!!

-- Long story short,, if u stick in ANY H4 bulb OR ANYTHING with higher lighting power,, you MUST upgrade those skinny wires and replace it all with some nice thick wires,,, and while ur at it,, make a second ground for each light and or relay, AND CLEAN each connection and make sure the connection is SOLID,,, then on EVERY ground wire, GRIND TO BARE METAL FOR MAX CONTACT on each and every ground that you have.

-- Stainless washers and lock washers are always good to use if ur screwin down a ground connection.

-- Hope that helped!!!

Maybe thats whats wrong with my HID setup??
The passenger side bulb flickers on startup and idle. Drivers side is fine.
 
Maybe thats whats wrong with my HID setup??
The passenger side bulb flickers on startup and idle. Drivers side is fine.

I think that could def. be it. How many watts are the HIDs? I know a lot of people who run 55w HIDs have to run an accessory harness straight to the battery because the stock wiring doesn't have the juice to fire them up. Might not be a bad idea to do that, especially since they are only about $20.
 
I think that could def. be it. How many watts are the HIDs? I know a lot of people who run 55w HIDs have to run an accessory harness straight to the battery because the stock wiring doesn't have the juice to fire them up. Might not be a bad idea to do that, especially since they are only about $20.

After they are lit, i think they run 35watt. The "lighting" power is much greater i think. But i am no expert...
 
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