Aftermarket Antisway bars

[xuv-this]

It would help if I know how to use the thing. My front bar is actually 26mm. If I upgraded to poly bushings, would I actually know the difference vs. 28 w/ poly?

What about the rear? My bar is only 16mm?!? Thats only a 5/8 inch bar. I'm pretty sure addco is the only one that makes an aftermarket rear bar. Did stock sizes vary any??

honestly, i don't think you would need it. hell, with my 4" lift there is not a whole lot of difference when i disconnect mine.(with the poly bushings and bilsteins) i know the stock rear bar does nothing on a stock xj. i was told once they were there mainly for towing...you could try poly bushings on it, and see if there is a difference. most swaybar sets run about $15-20

reducing body roll doesn't improve handling; at least not on a vehicle with solid axles.
Increasing roll stiffness is common in the world of IFS/IRS vehicles. Reducing body roll reduces problems with camber changes. Controlling camber is necessary to optimize the tire contact patch for maximum grip. If it wasn't for camber changes, the rule would be "softer is better", even with added body roll.On a solid axle, camber is maintained regardless of body roll angle. Roll stiffness is adjusted to balance front to rear traction. "

my setup has some oversteer, and i like it, but that's me and my driving style. actually i think that less body roll does help xj's handle better. like if i haul around a corner, and the next one goes the opposite way, then a stock xj will roll back right as the second turn starts, and throw the weight on the outer front. with less body roll and my setup, i can control where it goes, and how much A LOT better. then i can kick it down floor it and the rear really pushes it through well. i also think that the solid axles really help to hold the inside down, too.

Hmmm, I'm never afraid of working on my truck, and can tackle any job I've tried in the past 3 1/2 years, so the bushings might be a good choice. Any idea on a price for a whole suspension kit?
Thanks alot.

also, plan AT LEAST 1 whole day to do it. and have a couple of spare bolts handy you can use as temps if it is a DD. then get it aligned. the body kit does not include swaybar stuff, and it runs around $100. ebay might be cheaper.
hope this helps!!

 

[JeepSpeed]

You can get four Bilsteins for right at $200 and shocks are very easy to install and you only need basic tools. The only problem you might run into is rust since you have a northern XJ. Just start soaking everything really well with a good penetrating oil for a few days before hand and everything will come off much easier. Then use caution and dont get too wrench happy or use too big of a wrench and you will be fine. Luckily my Jeep has been in Atlanta all of its life so It doesnt have a spec of rust on it. It makes working on things sooo much easier.

I also agree that you will see a bigger improvement going to good performance shocks than you would upgrading the sways. Plus, you wont ever have to worry about shocks again if you get a good brand like Bilstein. They have a lifetime warranty and they last forever on top of that.

Really? No shit. I was trying to shy away from shocks cuz I thought I'd have to pay some wipe to do them. My XJ's from Florida, It's been up here by Chicago for about 4 or 5 years. I think it's time for some Bilsteins.


MaX, thanks alot for clearing that up. I'm mostly an engine guy, and am still kinda a noob on suspensions. If money were no issue, I'd have poly bushings all around, a thicker front and rear sway, street shocks, unibody frame filler (I forgot what exactley it's called), and some 17's. Oh well, I guess school comes first.


Thanks alot to everyone!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

JeepSpeed, since you're on a budget (and who of us isn't? ), here's a suggestion. Find a 90-96 with the towing package at a junkyard, and buy both front and rear swaybars. Then use Energy Suspension poly bushings to install them. The cost for poly bushings should be under $60.

Then for shocks, I'd recommend a set of ProComps. They are identical to Ranchos, but cost less. Granted, they're not as good as Bilsteins, but for bang for the buck, they can't be beat.

With the larger sway bars, poly bushings, and new shocks, you'll have a very good-handling Jeep for well under $200.....

 

[JeepSpeed]

JeepSpeed, since you're on a budget (and who of us isn't? ), here's a suggestion. Find a 90-96 with the towing package at a junkyard, and buy both front and rear swaybars. Then use Energy Suspension poly bushings to install them. The cost for poly bushings should be under $60.

Then for shocks, I'd recommend a set of ProComps. They are identical to Ranchos, but cost less. Granted, they're not as good as Bilsteins, but for bang for the buck, they can't be beat.

With the larger sway bars, poly bushings, and new shocks, you'll have a very good-handling Jeep for well under $200.....

Like I said earlier, boneyards are pretty much out of the question, cuz they suck around me, and if I find something, the stingy bastards charge like a dealership anyway. You guys are all lucky. I found a 92' XJ once, and the guy wanted $180 for the old head. I told him to fuck himself and I barked at his dog.

Anyway, yeah, I think I'm gonna go with the bilsteins and call it a day, but keep the poly bushing setup in mind whenever I get the time and money....ie, next summer with the full time job again. I think I'll be plenty happy. I think my exhaust manifold is cracked anyway. Borla's gonna rape me.

 

[MaXJohnson]

my setup has some oversteer, and i like it, but that's me and my driving style. actually i think that less body roll does help xj's handle better... like if i haul around a corner, and the next one goes the opposite way, then a stock xj will roll back right as the second turn starts, and throw the weight on the outer front. with less body roll and my setup, i can control where it goes, and how much A LOT better. then i can kick it down floor it and the rear really pushes it through well. i also think that the solid axles really help to hold the inside down, too.

now this is down right funny

your "setup"

your "driving style"

your " 4" lift that handles like a sports car..."

your "fantasy" :bs:

you would benefit from reading more and posting less

 

[Atl XJ]

I think my exhaust manifold is cracked anyway. Borla's gonna rape me.

Borla makes a real good header, but its expensive. If it were me, I'd also look into Banks, they are also really good for the 4.0l and I'm pretty sure they are cheaper. I've also been hearing good things about the Mike Leach header but I'm not sure about the cost on it.

 

[xuv-this]

now this is down right funny
your "setup"
your "driving style"
your " 4" lift that handles like a sports car..."
your "fantasy" :bs:
you would benefit from reading more and posting less

i would like to keep this nice, i am not trying to pick a fight, but i think it would help you (and everybody else, including me) to be more open minded.
i did not say sportscar. i said truck. let me rephrase: this type of "setup" handles damn well for a truck/suv. could a camaro hand me my ass? of course. but when it comes down to showing that chevy ssr guy how a real sport truck handles a corner, the phrase "it's a jeep thing, you wouldn't understand" takes on a whole new meaning.aperwork

all i have to ask of you is to try it before you crucify it. i'm not making this stuff up. and i really don't like people that accuse me of saying false things. do i call you a liar? i was not attacking what you said in my last post. i was merely sharing my experiences. i'm just trying to use my experiences to help people who want their jeeps handle better. so can we make nice?:flipoff: :repair:

 

[miketyson]

where do you get bilsteins for said price? and which ones do i need for a 2" lift?

 

[goodburbon]

At least you searched.

My local parts guy can only get them for $100 apiece for the 2 inch lift 5100 series bilstein. That was when I inquired last week.

 

[XJEric]

Since we're talking shocks and such, I'd like to chime in a bit with a question. I'm planning on lowering my '95 XJ as much as possible. I heard 2" is about the lowest you can go before you start running in to oil pan clearance issues. Stock shock length be fine for 2" lower, or should I search and find a shock that is shorter? To ask more of a technical question, from the neutral at-rest position, how much bump travel does a stock shock have? How much droop travel?

Thanks

 

[OCMI_Teddy]

please don't lower it......

 

[seanyb505]

Since we're talking shocks and such, I'd like to chime in a bit with a question. I'm planning on lowering my '95 XJ as much as possible. I heard 2" is about the lowest you can go before you start running in to oil pan clearance issues. Stock shock length be fine for 2" lower, or should I search and find a shock that is shorter? To ask more of a technical question, from the neutral at-rest position, how much bump travel does a stock shock have? How much droop travel?

Thanks

From what Ive read about lowering you should be safe with anything smaller than 2". I wouldnt only advise cutting one coil though, and make sure you cut the bumpstops as well or theyll hit a lot.

 

[xuv-this]

Since we're talking shocks and such, I'd like to chime in a bit with a question. I'm planning on lowering my '95 XJ as much as possible. I heard 2" is about the lowest you can go before you start running in to oil pan clearance issues. Stock shock length be fine for 2" lower, or should I search and find a shock that is shorter? To ask more of a technical question, from the neutral at-rest position, how much bump travel does a stock shock have? How much droop travel?

Thanks

stock front shocks have about 8 inches. how much at stock ride hight can vary a little depending on how saggy your springs are. most are between 3-4" uptravel. lowering any more than 2" would require track bar, pitman arm, and possibly tie rod modifications in addition to the oil pan issue.

 

[XJEric]

stock front shocks have about 8 inches. how much at stock ride hight can vary a little depending on how saggy your springs are. most are between 3-4" uptravel. lowering any more than 2" would require track bar, pitman arm, and possibly tie rod modifications in addition to the oil pan issue.

I was aware of the other issues with lowering more than 2", but I won't go that lower due to the oil pan issue.

If most stock shocks have about 3-4", and I lower 2", that would only leave about 1-2" uptravel. I think I'll start looking in to a shorter shock... Thanks!

 

[Pavel3979]

Can I get 1 1/4 sway bar from Grand Cherokee to my XJ? Did somebody try it?

 

[maybe2fast]

bringing post back from the dead. Can you use a ZJ front bar?

 

[yossarian19]

bringing post back from the dead. Can you use a ZJ front bar?

Can you measure one and let us know? :cheers:

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

i think you can actually.

 

[maybe2fast]

just measured my 96 classic swaybar...26.4mm

I need something bigger for the street

 

[John(XJ)Jeep]

I've just remembered a thought that I had for while but never really bothered looking into it, just a "thought" I've actually considered trying to find a way to use either a front sway bar from another jeep in the back or try to find a similar front bar from another vehicle to replace the rear sway bar. I've only though of this cause that rear bar is pretty tiny and with the hard cornering I do every once in a while I do notice quite a bit of roll in the back. I don't know, like I said just a thought to munch on.