Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Ok, ill probably pull the fuse box tomorrow and see what's what. Thanks for the help.
AC troubleshoot
- Thread starter Lowrange2
- Start date
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
So, I pulled the distribution block apart and verified your diagram is correct. My diagram has totally different colors.
Terminal #2 turns out to be the culprit. When I jump 12 volts to that terminal with the relay in place everything works as it should. Now, my diagram says that the terminal number 2 wire goes over to the fuel pump relay. Unless there is a relay elsewhere that I'm not aware of then it's wrong again. That particular wire leaves the distribution block and goes into the main harness loom.
Where does the dark blue and white constant 12 volt wire come from? I assume it comes from the #5 fuse in the panel under the dash? Is that assumption correct?
I'll start continuity test on that wire when I wake up. G-night and thanks for the help again.
Terminal #2 turns out to be the culprit. When I jump 12 volts to that terminal with the relay in place everything works as it should. Now, my diagram says that the terminal number 2 wire goes over to the fuel pump relay. Unless there is a relay elsewhere that I'm not aware of then it's wrong again. That particular wire leaves the distribution block and goes into the main harness loom.
Where does the dark blue and white constant 12 volt wire come from? I assume it comes from the #5 fuse in the panel under the dash? Is that assumption correct?
I'll start continuity test on that wire when I wake up. G-night and thanks for the help again.
Terminal #2 goes directly to fuse #5, so there must be a break somewhere in that wire. The diagram I have says nothing about going thru the fuel pump relay. It does say the wire splits at the compressor relay and powers up the ABS relay which seems odd but regardless you should have constant power at #2 and if the fuse is good then somewhere it is open.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Cool. I can find that one. Thanks again. Ill let ya know what it was.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
For starters I'm using an auto detection Fluke meter... So it selects whether it sees voltage or continuity on it's own.
I ran the positive lead on the meter to terminal #2 on the relay outlet (should be +12). I ran the negative lead on the meter to the #5 fuse in the fuse panel under the dash.
I fully expected to read some resistance but very little resistance with good continuity but I was surprised to see that it read 6.37 volts.
Why would it read 6.37 volts? That makes no sense... If it were grounded it out it would blow the fuse.
Fuse #5 has a good positive 12 volts.
With the negative meter lead on terminal #2 and the positive meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery and it reads 7 volts. (Voltage)
With the negative meter lead on terminal #2 and the positive meter lead to the negative terminal of the battery and it doesn't read anything. (Continuity)
Seems like I would either have continuity between the two terminals or nothing at all. Not voltage one way and some crazy readings the other way.
I'm about to just run a damn wire to terminal #2 and be done with it.
I sure would like to have it operating properly.
I ran the positive lead on the meter to terminal #2 on the relay outlet (should be +12). I ran the negative lead on the meter to the #5 fuse in the fuse panel under the dash.
I fully expected to read some resistance but very little resistance with good continuity but I was surprised to see that it read 6.37 volts.
Why would it read 6.37 volts? That makes no sense... If it were grounded it out it would blow the fuse.
Fuse #5 has a good positive 12 volts.
With the negative meter lead on terminal #2 and the positive meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery and it reads 7 volts. (Voltage)
With the negative meter lead on terminal #2 and the positive meter lead to the negative terminal of the battery and it doesn't read anything. (Continuity)
Seems like I would either have continuity between the two terminals or nothing at all. Not voltage one way and some crazy readings the other way.
I'm about to just run a damn wire to terminal #2 and be done with it.
I sure would like to have it operating properly.
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Sounds like high resistance in the wire, if you have 12 volts at the fuse and 7 at the terminal you have 5 volts of drop. Have you tried taking the fuse out and just measuring the continuity of the terminal at the fuse to the terminal at the relay, measuring continuity should be on a non powered circuit for correct resistance readings.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I don't have ANY voltage at the relay terminal. I have 12 volts at the fuse.
I do no read any continuity between the fuse terminal and the relay terminal.
I do no read any continuity between the fuse terminal and the relay terminal.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Since mine doesn't have abs would it be unspeakable to run a new wire to that terminal from the fuse and eliminate the problematic wire?
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
My thoughts exactly.
I suppose that's what I'll do. I hate running new wires for stuff like that. I'd much rather have the old wire working but I'm not willing to do that much digging.
Does your diagram show a color change in that wire or is it the same blue/white wire all the way to the fuse block?
I suppose that's what I'll do. I hate running new wires for stuff like that. I'd much rather have the old wire working but I'm not willing to do that much digging.
Does your diagram show a color change in that wire or is it the same blue/white wire all the way to the fuse block?
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
aight. ill go look later. im being lazy right now.
