AC compressor to OBA compressor (question)

question... the ports on my compressor look like this:
99Jeepengine001.jpg


what are my options as far as putting a fitting on them? they dont appear to me to be a standard thread of some sort.

This is what mine looked like as well. On the input side (big rubber hose) I simply unbolted in from that black cylinder thingy and tapped the existing hole in the aluminum flange. I screwed and aluminum Viar filter directly on it.

For the pressurized side, I cut the existing smaller rubber line, as far from the compressor as possible. Then I jamed a barbed fitting in it, backed by a hose clamp. Plumbed everything from there.

I simply unscrew the filter before use and squirt some all squirt oil in the intake. I only use this to fill my tires and an occasional impact/ cut off wheel.

Oh and you really DONT need to wire it to the ignition. If you try and turn it on while the car is running, nothing is gonna happen. It just turns on the electro magnet and engages the clutch. If they flywheel aint spinning the AC clutch aint spinning.
 
This is what mine looked like as well. On the input side (big rubber hose) I simply unbolted in from that black cylinder thingy and tapped the existing hole in the aluminum flange. I screwed and aluminum Viar filter directly on it.

For the pressurized side, I cut the existing smaller rubber line, as far from the compressor as possible. Then I jamed a barbed fitting in it, backed by a hose clamp. Plumbed everything from there.


I simply unscrew the filter before use and squirt some all squirt oil in the intake. I only use this to fill my tires and an occasional impact/ cut off wheel.

Oh and you really DONT need to wire it to the ignition. If you try and turn it on while the car is running, nothing is gonna happen. It just turns on the electro magnet and engages the clutch. If they flywheel aint spinning the AC clutch aint spinning.
these were my ideas too. seems simple enough. glad to see someone shares my thought process. i was thinking, the lines (specifically the HP side) are meant to handle the heat of the compressor and engine bay, why not utilize them?"

i wasnt planning to wire it to the ignition... just wiring it to a switch where when "on" the pressure switch governs the clutch and (when the motor is running like you mentioned) will govern if the tank needs air or not. in the "off" position simply nothing happens.
 
kind of an odd question:
is it unwise for the air to come into the tank from the bottom?

it will still have a drain location. i could understand not putting a pressure switch, gauge, etc.. down there for them possibly not functioning right. but is there a problem with the air inlet on the tank being on the bottom?
 
kind of an odd question:
is it unwise for the air to come into the tank from the bottom?

it will still have a drain location. i could understand not putting a pressure switch, gauge, etc.. down there for them possibly not functioning right. but is there a problem with the air inlet on the tank being on the bottom?

Depends how you have plumbed your tank.
The inlet/outlet should not be on the bottom, pushing air into the tank is not a problem, unless it is frozen, but air leaving the tank will carry any water/oil or debris in the bottom of the tank, and that will cause problems.

Jerry H
Frozen in Minneapolis
 
I'll give you a link to my write-up which covers how I dealt with the fittings (I went to an AC shop and had them make some conversion lines for me) as well as how I wired everything in without having to deal with added relays or fuses.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=994978

My setup works great aside from the location of my filter/dryer which I am eventually going to move further from the compressor and out from under the hood because I overheated it once this summer. Tire filling is a breeze and air hammers and impact wrenches seem to work just fine as well.

Good luck with your setup.
 
Walt,

Here's what I was talking about. Seems you would have nearly everything you need here (disassemble and toss motor in trash) for 80 bucks. There is always a 20% coupon floating around so that brings it down to $60 plus lines and an oiler.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-100-psi-air-compressor-93796.html

image_2780.jpg
Doesn't look like it has an oil separator but the rest of the needed parts are there. I would want to be sure the cutoff switch can work on DC power.
 
Doesn't look like it has an oil separator but the rest of the needed parts are there. I would want to be sure the cutoff switch can work on DC power.

There is no difference for AC or DC. It is a pressure switch, internally there is a connection that is open or closed. When the pressure gets to a certain point (100 psi, 115 psi, 125 psi, etc.) the switch opens the circuit and it cuts the compressor.
 
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