5.3L Vortec V8 Conversion

[John D]

hey john d do you have any sound clips of that exhaust?

I don't... I will try to get one when towards the end of the month.

 

[Frank Z]

Remove the snap-ring that retains the input shaft. Carefull! The input shaft and low range gear will fallout as soon as the snap-ring is removed.

Remove the large lock-ring in the low range housing in order to remove the input shaft.

At this point I had to use the pin and planetary gear as a makeshift jig so I could reinstall the two rows of needle bearings in the planetary. The two rows are seperated by a small washer.

After installing the planetary gears into the low range housing, use a cold chisel to stake the pins in place. Now you've got your own homebrew booty fab 6 planetary low range gear!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/FrankZ_2006/Vortec/IMG_3951.jpg[img][/FONT][/COLOR]


[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Comparison pic of the OEM Chevy 32 spline main shaft and the JB Conversions short main shaft.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana][IMG]http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/FrankZ_2006/Vortec/IMG_3953.jpg

Remove the snap ring that retains the drive sprocket and the mode hub. Slip them off the the old shaft and onto the new short shaft.

Reinstall the input shaft into the lowrange, and then install those into the forward case half followed by the snap ring.

Re-install the mode fork, range fork, and the rail, followed by the front output shaft, chain and main shaft.

Re-install the magnet.

Don't forget that the oil pump goes on the outside of the rear half.

Hopefully you've been using a brass wire wheel in a drill to clean all of the mating surfaces. DO NOT USE STEEL WIRE WHEEL!!
Once your surfaces are clean it's time to add a little gasket maker. I strongly recommend.....

Re-assemble the two case halves.

 

[Frank Z]

Install a snap-ring once the oilpump is in the proper position.

Now install the reluctor ring and the second snap-ring.

The JB kit comes with a new sealed bearing the replaces the OEM bearing in the outputshaft housing. Drive the old bearing out from the inside toward the outside.

The new bearing is easy to install but it must be installed with the protruding inner race towards the inside of the case.

The new bearing will protrude from the tailcone after it's driven all the way in.

Apply a liberal coat of grease to the new seal and then install the new seal housing onto the tail cone.

Install the new rubber gasket on the mainshaft, followed by yhr new yoke.

Finally, I re-installed my clocking ring onto the case and then re-installed the case in my heep.

 

[Frank Z]

No pics today. Yesterday was spent trying to mock-up the exhaust from the headers to the cat. Hopefully that will get finished in the next couple of days.

PCM is on it's way back from geting reprogrammed and will get installed ASAP.

Shifter and cable will get here this week as well.

 

[collkid]

Wow really looks like everything is coming together.

Keeping the Blue when you paint it?

 

[Frank Z]

Paint? That might be another thread at some point.

 

[Frank Z]

Well it turns out that a Camaro shifter and cable was not the best choice. The shifter base plate needs severe modification to fit and the OEM cable is way to short. I'm going to scavange around the junky yard later today and see if I can find a cable in the 3-4' range.

 

[Sherman_thetank]

you can buy the B&M shifter cable that they sell with their unimac for about 30 bucks shipped, only problem is its 5 ft....but hey you wont have too short of a cable anymore

http://www.race-mart.com/items/prod...sories/b-m-shifter-cables/BMA80735-detail.htm

Or if you need an entire new shifter, i got this
http://www.race-mart.com/items/products/shifters/b-m-shifters/b-m-unimac-shifters/list.htm
and it comes with a 4 ft cable, and all the brackets for any application.

 

[Frank Z]

After trading a few PM's with JohnD regarding his shifter/cable I opted to use a longer cable from a '01 Blazer. $10 at the JY. The cable is routed thru the firewall and makes a 180Deg turn near the bellcrank for the t-case. Once my shifter knob gets here I'll be able to bolt down the shifter. I'll post pics when thats done.

Finally got the exhaust pieced together.....it looks like ass, but I think it'll work.

Installed a front driveshaft from a V8 WJ onto the rear axle/t-case. Not sure if it's gonna work out though. It seems a bit short. I'll peel the rubber boot back tomorrow and have a closer look at the amount of exposed splines.

Found out my $25 dollar Engine Shield won't work on an 03 motor. Too bad, cuz it looked sweet proped up on the motor.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Got the headers on Thursday evening. They are made by Sanderson Headers. I've looked on the Sanderson website and cannot find an exact match.

I'll be painting them in a day or two and then I'll get 'em bolted in so I can start fabbing up the rest of the exhaust.

Yes I'm going to run all 4 O2 sensors for proper fuel management in the closed loop mode.

I was just digging around on pirate and found this link: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pro...d=191&osCsid=7a62562191aedf56fa121a09844c66b9

$285 uncoated. They are for an S10 conversion CSLS1.

Edit: never mind, they do look a bit different. Quite close though. Perhaps they would work? Jeff

 

[Frank Z]

No, they are not the same. Look at the passenger side headers. They DO NOT fit.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

If you didn't notice, I did add a comment below the picture stating that I had in fact noticed that they were a bit different. They still look pretty close though. Have you actually tried a set of these on your installation? I wonder what the issue would be? Perhaps the passengers side outlet angles out more than the Novak sourced ones? BTW, do you have pictures you would share detailing the install of the Novak ones? I would like to see how they dump and how the rest of the exhaust is able to be routed. As I think you are aware, I opted to use a modified set of early vette LS1 exhaust manifolds on mine. They hug the block very tightly, turn down and all come together in a row. I'm then running the drivers side in front of the oil pan (swapped to a Caddilac CSV oil pan) and around to meet with the passengers side. I'm trying to use 2.5" pipe until they join and then either 3" or stick with 2.5" out the back. I'm VERY slow on this project though so I'm sure yours will be up and running way before mine. Jeff

Speedway Motors LS1 block huggers almost fit:

My modified Vette units fit quite well:

Drivers side with start of crossover:

Ok, enough of my pics. For anyone wanting to see my long drawn out project, it is in the Advanced Fab section. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945920

 

[Frank Z]

I think you edited your post at the same time that I was posting.

I did try a set.

The issue is exactly as you described, the collector angles outboard. Another interference area is the lower tube, it contacts the Novak motor mount.

 

[Frank Z]

I'll get some pics of the exhaust up in the next day or two, as long as no one giggles. It's a cut and fit hodgepodge but it'll get me up and running.

 

[Frank Z]

A little more progress.
Got some more of the wiring cleaned up and the power stering lines connected. The module and harness for the DBW is also permanently mounted now as well.

Dual electric fans are installed and the radiator is back in place. I'll be picking the mating connector for the passenger side fan this week and fnishing the wiring for it.

Exhaust is done, extra booger welds enhance under vehicle turbulance......

 

[fatwreck]

What did you use for a Y connector for your exhaust?

 

[Frank Z]

I made my own. Not purdy but it'll get me down the road.

 

[Frank Z]

 

[fatwreck]

I thought about doing that as well, but decided to pony up for the Y collector.

 

[98xjeepy]

awesome build! One of the coolest threads i have ever seen. Keep up the good work.