5.3L Vortec V8 Conversion

[Frank Z]

So it'll beat ricers at the light AND drive over their cars?

Uphill, both ways, in the snow....at the same time.

 

[John D]

Good job Frank! I was hoping the solution would come quickly.

The skinny pedal is really fun to push on. Some of the reasoning and logic you used on your wife - "honey it will be worth it because I will get much better gas mileage" - forget it! I like to drive mine on the street as much as anywhere now. Just wait till you take it offroad. Made my first trip to a park here in Michigan today, it was unreal. When the tires spin up twice as fast obsticles become much less of an obsticle. My cheeks were sore from smiling all day

BTW, after all the work I did on trying to get the instrument cluster working (and finally gave up), there may be a solution. Standby, waiting for someone to finish and report. I'm done with it and have moved on, but it may help others.

 

[Frank Z]

I spent a few hours getting the power steering pump (pulley) aligned. It was slightly racked and side loading the belt causing the squeal. Still have a little chirp but nothing like what it was before.

Took it out for a longer test drive (about 15 miles one way) to friends house. He and his dad have a 6.0L in a TJ and have the same chirp. a quick search found that it's not uncommon.

On my way home I coasted up next to an F-Body Camaro at a red light and got a smirk from the twenty-something guy behind the wheel. He's eye-balling my heep with a smug look on his face. Light turns green, I gave it a little more gas than normal and his jaw taps asphalt. The "new" look on his face was priceless.

 

[FlexdXJ]

I spent a few hours getting the power steering pump (pulley) aligned. It was slightly racked and side loading the belt causing the squeal. Still have a little chirp but nothing like what it was before.

Took it out for a longer test drive (about 15 miles one way) to friends house. He and his dad have a 6.0L in a TJ and have the same chirp. a quick search found that it's not uncommon.

On my way home I coasted up next to an F-Body Camaro at a red light and got a smirk from the twenty-something guy behind the wheel. He's eye-balling my heep with a smug look on his face. Light turns green, I gave it a little more gas than normal and his jaw taps asphalt. The "new" look on his face was priceless.

Awesome, Sounds like fun!

 

[Frank Z]

Gauges are finally ordered and should be here in 5-7 days.

Worked on the hood.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.

Doesn't look too bad in the pics but I'm gonna redo it with a fiberglass scoop at some point.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I just thought I would post up about an issue I'm having with my front accessory drive since I almost followed John! I had purchased a Vette harmonic balancer, LS2 water pump, and Vette power steering pump/alternator mount. The idea was to keep the alternator up high, but not too high and push everything tight to the front of the engine for as much clearance as I could get. Well, when trying to figure out how to get a large remote power steering reservoir to feed into the Vette TC power steering pump (for hydro assist), I discovered that many other setups mount the pump 180 degrees from the Vette orientation. This makes access to the return fitting on the pump MUCH easier! So, I decided to ditch the Vette accessory bracket and build something similar to the Kwik Performance setup. I am also toying with the idea of installing TWO TC pumps on this serpentine system. So, out came the cardboard and many hours playing with different arrangements and trying to come up with small diameter smooth idler pulleys. I looked at every setup I could find and decided I could make this work with ONE small diameter idler pulley if I copied John's belt arrangement going over the top of the water pump pulley. However, before I fully implemented this plan I realized that John's belt is around the water pump inlet! He can't change belts unless he removes his upper radiator hose! While this may work fine for quite some time, I would really rather not have that design flaw in my system. So now I'm back to trying to jam two small diameter idler pulleys in between all the other pulleys and do two full wrap loops before heading to the alternator. Any idea if 300 or so degrees of belt engagement on a power steering pulley is going to cause problems?

Cardboard layout:

Cut and paste cardboard style on engine:

First aluminum plate on engine:

From behind:

Closeup of lower power steering pump mount from behind:

Jeff

 

[John D]

I just thought I would post up about an issue I'm having with my front accessory drive since I almost followed John! I had purchased a Vette harmonic balancer, LS2 water pump, and Vette power steering pump/alternator mount. The idea was to keep the alternator up high, but not too high and push everything tight to the front of the engine for as much clearance as I could get. Well, when trying to figure out how to get a large remote power steering reservoir to feed into the Vette TC power steering pump (for hydro assist), I discovered that many other setups mount the pump 180 degrees from the Vette orientation. This makes access to the return fitting on the pump MUCH easier! So, I decided to ditch the Vette accessory bracket and build something similar to the Kwik Performance setup. I am also toying with the idea of installing TWO TC pumps on this serpentine system. So, out came the cardboard and many hours playing with different arrangements and trying to come up with small diameter smooth idler pulleys. I looked at every setup I could find and decided I could make this work with ONE small diameter idler pulley if I copied John's belt arrangement going over the top of the water pump pulley. However, before I fully implemented this plan I realized that John's belt is around the water pump inlet! He can't change belts unless he removes his upper radiator hose! While this may work fine for quite some time, I would really rather not have that design flaw in my system. So now I'm back to trying to jam two small diameter idler pulleys in between all the other pulleys and do two full wrap loops before heading to the alternator. Any idea if 300 or so degrees of belt engagement on a power steering pulley is going to cause problems?

Cardboard layout:

Jeff

I like it.

I would think less engagment on the pump would be more concerning. I don't see a problem with 300 degrees engagment.

Where is the tensioner? Or is one of the accessories going to be your tensioner.

Were you able to get it to a stock belt length, or will you be searching for a belt?

I never liked the fact that I have my belt captive with the water pump outlet, but at the time it was the best choice. After you pull this off maybe I will change mine :thumbup:

 

[Team Willys]

You just be careful when doing this. Be sure you measure for a belt before you go through all the trouble of actually making any brackets, but it looks like you already took care of that. I Added an on board air setup to to the LQ4 FJ-40 that I converted, and I had to make a bracket using 2 idlers much like what you have shown. Well, long story short, I just barely lucked out... after going through all the trouble and spending many hours getting everything like I wanted it, I measured for the belt and headed for the parts store. Upon arrival, I discovered that the belt that I needed was the longest one that gates made. And it was tight going on...

 

[John D]

Thought I should re-post this pic so others can see it if they are reading this section.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

The tensioner, a ribbed idler and a York On Board Air sit high on the passengers side utilizing a Kwik Performance bracket. I have them removed right now because I was going to try moving things around to get a decent shot under the throttle body. As for a belt length, I had one working with the Corvette brackets, but with this new setup I'll have to figure out a new one. It will be LONG, that much I know (I certainly hope not too long as I have NOT figured that out yet)! Keep in mind that I'm running a WJ steering box. I'm not sure this setup would work on a rig with a conventional XJ steering box. Also, the TC pump I have right now is a Corvette unit with a CTS-V pulley on it and the pulley cannot be pressed all the way on as it would be out of alignment then as well as be in the way of the pump outlet. As it is, I think I'm going to have to use a pressure hose that has a metal end and a 90 degree bend to clear the pulley. As for pulley choices, my only options are CTS-V, G8, and Vette as these are the only ones designed for the close to the engine block belt routing. I think the CTS-V and G8 are the same diameter of 6 3/16" while the Vette pulley is more like 7 1/2 inches. The CTS-V and G8 pumps are quite different looking than the more common TC pump I have. Jeff

CTS-V:

CTS-V remanufactured pump:

CTS-V pump on bench:

'09 Pontiac G8:

'09 Pontiac G8:

Corvette:

My outer plate on top of Corvette bracket:

Corvette bracket on top of my outer plate:

My outer plate next to Corvette bracket:

Here's a shot of the system with the Corvette bracket and a belt that fit.

By the way, my new system will just as easily work with ONE power steering pump and a shorter belt by just deleting one of the idlers and the second pump as long as I can find a belt that will be the right length.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

John, can you share where you got your 90 degree elbow off the throttle body, and what air filter you are using? I think I'm going to end up with pretty much the same setup and would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Jeff

 

[John D]

John, can you share where you got your 90 degree elbow off the throttle body, and what air filter you are using? I think I'm going to end up with pretty much the same setup and would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Jeff

Elbows - http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=9DEH

Air Filter - http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RD-6000

 

[Frank Z]

Jeff,
If you haven't bookmarked this one already:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conve...ive-conversion-gm-part-numbers-oem-parts.html

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Thanks for the link Frank. I have looked at that thread many times as well as others like it. Also thanks John. I was looking at a different K&N filter though. I read some stuff on Pirate and thought perhaps I would use this combination of parts:

Throttle body is 4" OD. Use 90HL4SR $17.88 short radius elbow http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90HL4SR&Category_Code=9DEH I have 6" or so between the throttle body and the top of the radiator. I plan to make a radiator shroud that angles down and out to give me some room at the top for an intake hose.

The elbow would be followed by 40R375 $8.59 reducing insert from 4" ID to 3.75" ID to fit the 4" elbow onto the Mass Air Flow Sensor which measures 3.75" OD on the input and output. http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=40R375&Category_Code=RIS

On the input to the Mass air flow sensor I was going to directly clamp an RU3530 K&N filter. This filter has a 3.75" ID flange and is 7" long. The biggest difference between this and the one you used is the ID is 3.875" on the one you used. It is not clamped directly to the Mass Air Flow Sensor though is it? The RD6000 does have a smaller diameter base at 4.25" compared to the RU3530 at 5.375" though. The top diameters are about the same at 4.00" for the RD6000 and 4.375" for the RU3530. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RU-3530

Jeff

 

[John D]

Throttle body is 4" OD. Use 90HL4SR $17.88 short radius elbow http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=90HL4SR&Category_Code=9DEH

The elbow would be followed by 40R375 $8.59 reducing insert from 4" ID to 3.75" ID to fit the 4" elbow onto the Mass Air Flow Sensor which measures 3.75" OD on the input and output. http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=40R375&Category_Code=RIS

The biggest difference between this and the one you used is the ID is 3.875" on the one you used. It is not clamped directly to the Mass Air Flow Sensor though is it?

Jeff

This is basically what I did, but I used 4' tubing to extend all the way over behind the D-side headlight. I did mount the filter to the MAF. You are talking about 1/8" (1/16" split between both sides) difference and it is a nice fit.

 

[Frank Z]

Finally got a set of gauges on the way. I went with VDO Cockpit White (#600922) and a matching tach. Should be here Wednesday or Thursday.

 

[xj-grin]

Finally got a set of gauges on the way. I went with VDO Cockpit White (#600922) and a matching tach. Should be here Wednesday or Thursday.

hallehfreakingluah!!!!:yelclap:

 

[Frank Z]

 

[Frank Z]

Decided it was time to flex out the heep and make sure the front drive shaft would clear the drivers side exhaust pipe and that the oil pan would clear the diff.
Plenty of clearance for the exhaust.

Oil pan looks safe.

Gratuitous flex pics.

 

[dgrigorenko]

very sexy! glad you didnt end up with clearance issues...