4.6L Stroker, Help me build it please!

[Flash]

Which program are you using? I can't seem to find a shareware dyno simulator that allows me to plug in all the variables.

http://www.auto-repair-manuals.com/desktop-dyno-cds.htm?OVRAW=Engine%20Dyno&OVKEY=desktop%20dyno%202000&OVMTC=advanced

I bought the one on the left side of the column 6th one down(with out pro tools!) you can add that on later if ya like!

way to much for me to grasp w/ out the pro tool.......... some day tho

its a grate program and has a video on how to us it.

You may have down loaded the "free" one that don't alow you to do much but see how it works!


Flash.

EDIT i can change every verible on this simulator, bore, stroke, rod ratio, comp,........you can evan build your on cam shaft if ya wanted to!

 

[Frank Z]

Thanks

 

[XJoshua]

Time for a quick update. I have all my parts and my backorder from hell summit racing pistons should show up today.

So I have all my parts except pistons, and have deburred the entire block. I have not ported yet until I get the larger valves in.

Before:

After:

 

[XJoshua]

Alrighty. Well since my cash flow has died Ive been forced to seek out DIY projects.

The valve guides arent pressed into the block so instead of paying $60 to have them drilled, probally more since the $60 is have them pressed in. I need to know if I can use my buddies "as tall as me" drill press and some cobalt 11/32" drill bits, some wd40 and time to drill the valve guides myself. Thatll save me some money and let me get the engine off to machine shop sooner.

I was planning on installing the engine this last week in march, but thats not going to happen due to me loaning money to my dad which hasnt been payed back YET!!! So Im aimming for mid april. Hopefully itll be done by then since machine work is going to cost a estimated $720 with tax.

 

[Flash]

Alrighty. Well since my cash flow has died Ive been forced to seek out DIY projects.

The valve guides arent pressed into the block so instead of paying $60 to have them drilled, probally more since the $60 is have them pressed in. I need to know if I can use my buddies "as tall as me" drill press and some cobalt 11/32" drill bits, some wd40 and time to drill the valve guides myself. Thatll save me some money and let me get the engine off to machine shop sooner.

I was planning on installing the engine this last week in march, but thats not going to happen due to me loaning money to my dad which hasnt been payed back YET!!! So Im aimming for mid april. Hopefully itll be done by then since machine work is going to cost a estimated $720 with tax.

NO

If you get the guides of by 1* it will require more time cutting the valve seat area and could cause a real big problem with the geometry of the head.......


Don't do it, $60 is cheap compared to replacing the head and then spending another 60+ on it.

Flash.

 

[XJoshua]

Well I had a question on my valve springs, but nevermind the machine shop can get them at the right install height.

Good to know Flash, no harm in asking right.

 

[Flash]

Well I had a question on my valve springs, but nevermind the machine shop can get them at the right install height.

Good to know Flash, no harm in asking right.

Ya but i would double check the when ya get it back.........

don't now the install hight right of hand.

Flash.

 

[XJoshua]

Well the rods are finally reconditioned. I wasnt able to get a picture of my new to me compressor but its a PorterCable 20gal 6HPmax and I love it. Much, Much, MUCH!!! Better then the damn pancake I was using.

Here's some photos and on the 7th everything should be going off to be machined.

And I did a pretty nice bit of bartering last night for another thing for the Jeep. Traded my universal game system steering wheel(purchased for $10), plus a pair of clairion 3 way 5x7 speakers(purchased for $60) for a GM series Pioneer 4Chan 600w amplifier(normally $200 retail) that is no longer in production.

 

[Flash]

Theres a lot of T.L.C. going on there!

look good!

Flash.

 

[traitor5150]

What is all of the deburring for what does that do for the engine I dont see the point?? also all of the grinding of the rods are your trying to lighten them up???

 

[seanyb505]

It eliminates "stress risers", or so ive been told. Lightening them by removing material would make them weaker I would think

 

[Flash]

What is all of the deburring for what does that do for the engine I dont see the point?? also all of the grinding of the rods are your trying to lighten them up???

when you grind the casting seams out of the rod it make it stronger even tho you have less material there.

As far as the rest go's......I don't now unless XJoshua is having the crank off center ground, for an even longer stroke?......Na then his Title would not have read (4.6 stroker)

I now that some one here built a stroker, only to have a knock in the motor. When he remove the oil pan the one rod was just barely hitting on a casting edge as the rod came around!

Thats something that i will probably do to my block before it sent to the machine shop. Just for that reason!

Flash.

 

[jeepinwi]

I now that some one here built a stroker, only to have a knock in the motor. When he remove the oil pan the one rod was just barely hitting on a casting edge as the rod came around!

Thats something that i will probably do to my block before it sent to the machine shop. Just for that reason!

Flash.

I'm pretty sure that was Frank who had the rods hitting his main bearing girdle.

 

[Frank Z]

I'm pretty sure that was Frank who had the rods hitting his main bearing girdle.

Sure was, I even had washers between the girdle and the head portion of the bolts. A second washer fixed the problem.

 

[XJoshua]

Im deburring the block to limit stress risers. I grinded the rods identical to the HESCO reconditioned rods. Except mine have more material left on the front and rear at the bushing. Makes almost a shape of a sharpened pencil.

I still need to deburr the camshaft area but that is really minor. The main cap area was the grande of burrs. The crankshaft its self it very clean. Right now Im doing the port and polish. I even put some money towards a scientific measuring cup. I should know the name of it since Im in a science class but hey its spring break. All ports will be around the same CC except the 1st and 6th exhaust ports which were formed different and smaller, but just means itll warm up quicker. Im not going to blow money on a flow test but the SA Tutorial says enough on how much more flow Ill have.

 

[Clean Racing]

Im deburring the block to limit stress risers. I grinded the rods identical to the HESCO reconditioned rods. Except mine have more material left on the front and rear at the bushing. Makes almost a shape of a sharpened pencil.

I don't want to sound mean or rain on your parade. I would not have ground so much off the top pads on the rods. Speaking from EXPERIENCE as an engine builder, you just created a nightmare for whom ever balances the engine. Those pads that you ground to a point are for match weighting the rods both small end, and big end.. I do like the fact that you beam ground the rods to releive the stress, now get em shot blasted by the machine shop as well... And get that thing balanced... Other than that it looks great... Nice work...

 

[1bolt]

okay so for those of us that know squat about stress risers exactly how do you strengthen those rods by taking material off? What is a stress riser and why does it weaken whatever it's on? Exactly where on the block would you concentrate on? Interesting stuff, seriously feel free to dig into the theory.

I'm guessing it's a bump or raised edge that heats and cools faster than the surounding area creating fractures? Is there a real longevity or reliability increase with doing all that work? I mean how many cracked blocks and broken rods are we seeing in 4.0 land?

 

[BBeach]

okay so for those of us that know squat about stress risers exactly how do you strengthen those rods by taking material off? What is a stress riser and why does it weaken whatever it's on? Exactly where on the block would you concentrate on? Interesting stuff, seriously feel free to dig into the theory.

I'm guessing it's a bump or raised edge that heats and cools faster than the surounding area creating fractures? Is there a real longevity or reliability increase with doing all that work? I mean how many cracked blocks and broken rods are we seeing in 4.0 land?

Any time you have a crack, or bulge for that matter, it decreases the strength of the material greatly. Think of putting a flat head onto a flat block with one tiny 1mm tall .1mm thick "sharp bulge". Not sure if that helps you at all.

 

[Frank Z]

Any raised metal surface with a sharp or square edge is prone to cracking. Removal of the "Stress Riser" will help eliminate one potential area for cracks to form. The square edge does not need to be on the outside of a piece of metal, they are equally dangerous and damaging on an inside edge. The Britsch Aircraft manufacturer De Havilland learned this the hard way when their premier aircraft (The Comet) started breaking up in mid-air. It was determined that the inflight fuselage failures were a result of square windows. The cracks formed in the corners of the aircraft skin. That's why all aircraft are now equipped with window openings that have radiused corners.

Sorry for the long winded reply.

 

[XJoshua]

Well port and polish is done and it goes to be machined this tuesday or wednesday. I babied the head thats for sure spent the time cc'ing the port to the same volume. except the #2&5 ports which are cresent shapped.

good news is i have enough abrasives left to do the same to my 5M-GE and hopfully get that sold in a year to purchase a '84 Toyota Celica-Supra .

Now all thats left is buying the accessories to make sure it produces nothing but power.

All the CO folks what did you use for your air and fuel systems? 24lbs injectors proballys isnt worth it in our altitute is it? Should i just get a FPR or a Adjustable MAP Sensor? Or all three?

On the '00 intake my TB is 70mm and havent measured the tapped but should i have the opening on the intake the same size as that of the tapper?

Also custom fiberglass fan shrouds on the way for dual electric fans. havent chossen fan sizes yet though. would it be to much to deem this Jeep a Jeep Cherokee SRT6? lol