33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

[mcguyver_xj]

the arguments your trying to put out have no place on this forum there has to be some forum for the redneck mud slut trucks out there for you to worship your boggers...driving at all with stock gears and bigger than stock tires SUCKS my last xj was 35's with 3.55's and this one is 33's on 4.10's its a bit better...km2's are good tires i like them but i have been in a rig with mtr-k's and their good too both work way better than boggers if you do any real offroading you dont see anything from interco other than iroks and sxx's or whatever their called (not swampers, not boggers, not thornturds)

 

[MrShaft696]

The bigger the diameter of the tire, the longer the lever working against your drive train.

i dont know what is going on in this thread but i have run 33's and 35's 4.56 locked for years, and to keep it short i didnt have nearly as many problems on 33's as 35's.... steering, ball joints, rod ends, steering boxes, all kinds of crap....the parts just dont last as long period.....you get good and quick at rebuilding the thing over and over....

 

[Hillbilly XJ]

Main reason I decided to stay with 33's, I'm "Old & Slow" not a big time Rock Crawler just enjoy the trails where ever they may take me.........and I make it most of the time :repair:

 

[87manche]

33/35's on stock gears is going to kill your trans.

it's also going to end up with you breaking a lot more stuff because you will have no crawling ability. Everything you do will be attempted at full throttle because that's the only way you can get your your junk to move. Full throttle+33+D30=:explosion:

I loved skinny super swampers, but they are not the best tire ever.
KM2s cut sidewalls on the regular, I know several people that have cut them on mild things.
MTRs are the current fawesome tire and everyone I've seen wih them has been happy. unless you're going sticky treps or krawlers that's the tire you want for general trail riding/on/offroad use.

I'll say this, you have no comprehension of gearing and torque and how it applies to your drivetrain. listen to the previous posters, or just become another askhole that asks for expert advice and then proceeds with their own dumb plan that they had in mind before asking.

 

[cal]

^^^^

Listen go the weinermonger.

 

[Hypoid]

My goal with my jeep is full widths and 40" agro tires (although you probably think those suck in the mud too).
So I'm trying to not put too much money into the axle if I don't need to.

I have no doubts geared is better, but offroad in low am I going to notice? Not many hills around here, but if it becomes really terrible driving to the trails I'll just toss it on the trailer and tow it out.

My second thought is that you will miss the wheel speed when you are sinking in a bog. You will want to be in 4-high, spinning those tars to keep your momentum.

I don't know if the 4.0 makes enough torque to spin the tires through taller gears...Do you have a couple extra cylinders you forgot to tell us about?

Maybe a shorter tire with a wider tread will better suit your terrain; maybe a Super Swamper in a 31/12.5-15. I did not look too hard for flotation tires, but I did not see much either.

Do you have any pictures or videos of the wheeling in your area?

 

[souske]

What I have come to understand about jeep building:
It's a lot cheaper to do it right the first time, than to continually keep re half assing it

Might as well go with those 40" tractor tires now.
If the stock gears aren't that bad with 5 extra inches of diameter, 10 shouldn't be a big deal.
The mass of the tire rotating is a "fake force"
Should be legit.

Just upgrade to the zj cv axle shafts so they hopefully don't blow your ball joints apart the first time those bad meats find traction.

 

[kastein]

Did you come here to teach us about tires, ask us about tires, or what?

Because I can't really tell.

Put whatever you want on your jeep, it's yours. I wouldn't go over a 33 on stock axles however.

this guy has got to be a troll

 

[ocean_jet]

Might as well go with those 40" tractor tires now.
If the stock gears aren't that bad with 5 extra inches of diameter, 10 shouldn't be a big deal.
The mass of the tire rotating is a "fake force"
Should be legit.

True... that and about 8 inches of blocks and coil spacers and you should be good to go.

 

[rockclimber]

What I have come to understand about jeep building:
It's a lot cheaper to do it right the first time, than to continually keep re half assing it

Might as well go with those 40" tractor tires now.
If the stock gears aren't that bad with 5 extra inches of diameter, 10 shouldn't be a big deal.
The mass of the tire rotating is a "fake force"
Should be legit.

Just upgrade to the zj cv axle shafts so they hopefully don't blow your ball joints apart the first time those bad meats find traction.

40"s? Screw that! 72"s baby!

 

[xriide]

Re: Re: 33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

it sounds like your into the BDMT thing, so do what youd like. youll learn down the road...

I don't know what BDMT is.

33/35's on stock gears is going to kill your trans.

it's also going to end up with you breaking a lot more stuff because you will have no crawling ability. Everything you do will be attempted at full throttle because that's the only way you can get your your junk to move. Full throttle+33+D30=:explosion:

I loved skinny super swampers, but they are not the best tire ever.
KM2s cut sidewalls on the regular, I know several people that have cut them on mild things.
MTRs are the current fawesome tire and everyone I've seen wih them has been happy. unless you're going sticky treps or krawlers that's the tire you want for general trail riding/on/offroad use.

I'll say this, you have no comprehension of gearing and torque and how it applies to your drivetrain. listen to the previous posters, or just become another askhole that asks for expert advice and then proceeds with their own dumb plan that they had in mind before asking.

I always figured the transmission was a strong part.
I do listen though, even though I have a thick skull.

Trans cooler has been ordered already.
And looking at gears now, they are less expensive than I expected, and hopefully YouTube can teach me to install.
And going to stick to 33's.
4.56 probably better than 4.10, or can you go too far the other way with gears too?

Makes sense that I'd have to hit everything with more throttle since I wouldn't be able to crawl either.

The tire choice is another thread really, and muskeg is a no win.

My goal is to make it down hunting trails that I can currently only make when it's frozen.

What I have come to understand about jeep building:
It's a lot cheaper to do it right the first time, than to continually keep re half assing it

Might as well go with those 40" tractor tires now.
If the stock gears aren't that bad with 5 extra inches of diameter, 10 shouldn't be a big deal.
The mass of the tire rotating is a "fake force"
Should be legit.

Just upgrade to the zj cv axle shafts so they hopefully don't blow your ball joints apart the first time those bad meats find traction.

I don't, and never have had any intentions on running that large a tire on stock axles. There is an xj running around on 40" agro tires in Alaska on jeep forum, he doesn't have power issues. But maybe I'm way off base.

I don't plan on one tons for a couple or more years.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

It's not the gears that are necessarily the expensive part. It's the labor to install them. Takes specialized tools that most do it yourselfers don't have. And of you want power with 33's, go to 4.88 gears. You'll love it

 

[cal]

^^

what he said. 4.10's would leave you wanting. 4.56's would feel just fine. 4.88's would give you that little extra you want in the soup.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

I don't know what BDMT is.

Big Dumb Mud Truck






since it looks like your willing to listen now... check out what these guys are doing to make the stock axles live a happy life on 35s.
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1015773

it has always been my belief that mud breaks more stuff. the high wheel speed dictates this. the amount of collateral damage is typically higher too, since your not able to hear/see a break right away. a broken axle shaft can quickly turn into blowing the ball joints out and leave your knuckle and tire sitting right next to you. overbuilt is the name of the game.

 

[Hillbilly XJ]

^^

what he said. 4.10's would leave you wanting. 4.56's would feel just fine. 4.88's would give you that little extra you want in the soup.

I made that mistake when I changed gears with my 33's went with 4.56's really should have asked more questions instead of going by the charts. 4.88's would have a much better choice for me anyway. If I ever did decide to go to a 35" tire would need to change to 5.13's for sure then where I could have gotten by with the 4.88's for while.

 

[831_xj]

Alan ran 37s then 40s and as of a couple days ago now has 42" iroks.

Locked d30 stock shafts and gears and 44 rear with chromos and stock 3.55s

Check out Sierra chapter "el junky" thread. He wheels probably 4-5 times a week

 

[cal]

maybe they define wheeling differently around those parts.

 

[cracker]

Alan ran 37s then 40s and as of a couple days ago now has 42" iroks.

Locked d30 stock shafts and gears and 44 rear with chromos and stock 3.55s

Check out Sierra chapter "el junky" thread. He wheels probably 4-5 times a week

Another example of Sierra leading the tards.......

 

[831_xj]

Oh shit socal is tag teaming like it's WWE..

Good ones guys super creative lulz

 

[cal]

two people call stupid stupid, and it becomes a tag team?

must get a log of tag teaming on those runs.