VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
It’s not foam*.
Can’t edit posts, I don’t pay anymore.
Can’t edit posts, I don’t pay anymore.
Shit. What's the next size up 375
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I have the Dirtbound 3-link at 3.5" of lift with stock axle side UCA mount. It works, but the UCA bent a 1" tunnel in the floorboard. It's not noticeable through the floor mat
My claytons LAs on my ZJ has the jj body side and rubber dura whatever on the axle side.. my XJ 3 link I’m redoing has JJs both sides for lowers, iro flex joint pressed in to axle side diff ear and a JJ to body. This should allow for maximum articulation with a fairly smooth ride. Maybe not as smooth as the claytons, but smoother then the heim joints it had previously. My 3 link had rubber body side, but after the inner sleeve bonded to the bolt and I had to cut it out, I decided to never want to do that again... hence JJs
tube gets its strength from diameter more so than wall thickness. since the upper shouldnt be seeing impacts you can afford to lighten it up. 1.75"x.120 " is plenty. for the a 3 link, the upper needs to be hard joints at both ends... no bushings, enduro joints, etc.ill also probalby use the iro press in joint, i assume you did the 1/2 bolt?
im 100% doing 2x2 lower arms, Im completely undecided what I want to use for the upper arm, other than Dom will be likely for floor clearance. what is the minimum i.d. O.D. wall tube you all would suggest for the upper?
im not sure i need .25, ide like to, but thats a lot of room I could save.
tube gets its strength from diameter more so than wall thickness. since the upper shouldnt be seeing impacts you can afford to lighten it up. 1.75"x.120 " is plenty. for the a 3 link, the upper needs to be hard joints at both ends... no bushings, enduro joints, etc.
as far as clearancing the floor... bump stop the hell out of it, or deal with it. multiple people now have said that its not even noticeable. your beating a dead horse.
doing this quick visualization also explains why im a proponent for putting the upper link on the drivers side. if you put it on the opposite side of the diff, the upper link has a tendency to roll the pinion down when the drivers side is droop/passenger side compressed, and up in the opposite scenario. you are better off controlling the pinion explicitly.any easy way to visualize this... make a peace sign in both hands and point them away from you. now you have your upper and lower links. roll one wrist up and one wrist down. you can see how the left and right hand side are opposing each other. a busing is needed to combat these opposing forces.
remove one of your upper links/index fingers and now you have a 3 link.
now, on a 3 link, the single upper is solely controlling all of the axles rotation. you COULD run a bushing on one end or both, but its not needed with the bind remove from the system. and because the link is controlling all of the rotation, you will blow out a bushing very quickly from torque loads (braking, 4wd, etc).
ive even seen the PTFE liner in an FK heim wear out and cause a bit of slop in the heim very quickly. i always recommend non lined heims for the upper, keep them lubed and they keep quiet. Johny Joints have a bushing in them like an enduro joint if i recall correctly. you may find yourself tightening them more often than desired. obviously depending on your usage, your results will vary.