'3/4 Ton and Not going to be Done'

[The Hard Struggler]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

My mistake... I did mean .001 to .002. Ha! I was a bit energetic with the zero key!

My experience with tighter than spec gears has been great with the 30 as well as my 44, in my trail Heep. I will agree that on a street driven rig is is a bit tight.

After break in and a couple of easy runs, the backlash tends to open up a couple of thou. My polished 30 held up great for me and continues to serve its new owner well with that same setup.

My .02

Back to our regularly scheduled thread... sorry aparke.

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

got some more work done last night with some help of course!

We got the driveshaft lengthened and also got the U joint for jeep to full size u joint pressed in and bolted up

Also we got the rear perches welded and snugged up the rear u bolts so the rear is done sans gearing and solid diff cover but it will drive off the trailor next time we wrench!

I having trouble with one of the long arms - the shank is getting 5/6 of the way in but the is something inside casusing it not to thread all the way up. We wire brushed the inside threads, used a magnet and sprayed some WD 40 in the but there is still something like a burr or a shaving causing it to snag up. The tolerences are very tight on the ironman 4x4 fabs threads so a little more cleaning, etc should get it all the way threaded.

also got the front truss welded up fully

next is to bolt up long arms and get the steering done

pics soon

 

[asp]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

I'll bet you're having a hard time threading the shank in because it shrank when it cooled after welding. Try running a tap through it. Or, if you don't have one that size, get a bolt the same size and grind 2 small slots in it (basically making the bolt a tap) and run that through. Something like this:

It won't be perfect, but it's cheaper than the right size tap and I'm sure it will get the job done. I've used this trick multiple times. Make sure the cutting edge is sharp.

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

I'll bet you're having a hard time threading the shank in because it shrank when it cooled after welding. Try running a tap through it. Or, if you don't have one that size, get a bolt the same size and grind 2 small slots in it (basically making the bolt a tap) and run that through. Something like this:

It won't be perfect, but it's cheaper than the right size tap and I'm sure it will get the job done. I've used this trick multiple times. Make sure the cutting edge is sharp.

ahhhhh it all makes sense now...

We inspected with a good led flashlight down into the tube which is tapped with no insert but there was some initial heat down towards the bushing for the UCA mounts with could have easily heated the tube up enough to cause such a change. I think my friend Ben might be able to score a tap of this nature but in any case I can buy the bolt and go with you fix... I have no idea how much a bolt of this size and length is going to cost but i think I would rather have the full 5 inches of engagement instead of chop of the end of andy's nice machine work...

Andy if you are reading this a PM is inbound but also if you could answer here as well what is the thread pitch/ size of the shank?

Thanks again for the help guys!

 

[asp]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

I have no idea how much a bolt of this size and length is going to cost

The bolt is going to cost less than the tap, I can tell you that. I figured you had a tube insert welded in... If you just tapped it and welded the bushing on the other end the heat wouldn't effect the other end of the link. It probably just isn't tapped deep enough.

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

The bolt is going to cost less than the tap, I can tell you that. I figured you had a tube insert welded in... If you just tapped it and welded the bushing on the other end the heat wouldn't effect the other end of the link. It probably just isn't tapped deep enough.

cool man thanks - the arms were built by Andy at ironman fab and he did did get back with me... it is a 1.5 12 tpi thread pitch and the threads could be short some because that is exactly the way it feels with about an inch left of threads on the shank... either that or that far in the tap did not fully engage so I am going to see if i can track down a bolt long enough and then secondly see if my friend Ben can track down a tap of the stature - i really do not want to buy one that's for sure! I bet they are not cheap...

 

[asp]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

You could probably stick a tape measure down and get a rough estimate on how deep the threads are. I'm not sure what I'd do if I were in your shoes. I'd be tempted to cut the extra inch of threads off. 5" of thread engagement is plenty.

 

[kastein]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Damn! You're quite right.

McMaster Carr has 1.5-12 taps in both RH and LH thread, strangely the RH thread is more expensive ($165) while the LH is cheaper ($125.) How far in do you need to tap it? The taps they sell are only 6" long overall so if you need to tap in more than about 5" you may be SOL.

 

[foxwar71]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

I'd be tempted to cut the extra inch of threads off. 5" of thread engagement is plenty.

x2 most joints seem to have 2.5-3" of threaded shank

 

[asp]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

The only thing I forgot to mention is that cutting the shanks might screw up whatever heat treatment they have. If you used a chop saw it would probably localize it to just the very end and not effect the temper of the whole thing... Your call. I'd be damn tempted...

 

[Ironmanandy]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Give me a call tomorrow and Ill pay for shipping it back and fixing it. They have to be full depth threaded because it taps to a stop. If you can send the joint and the arm so that I can be sure what the problem is
Andy
704 796 3502

 

[PacificEd]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Give me a call tomorrow and Ill pay for shipping it back and fixing it. They have to be full depth threaded because it taps to a stop. If you can send the joint and the arm so that I can be sure what the problem is
Andy
704 796 3502

Now that is awesome customer service! Kudos Andy!

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Now that is awesome customer service! Kudos Andy!

man that is too nice andy - call ya tommorow and we can go from there... i really hope i do not have to send it back and we can fix it over here in MS... i do have some friends with lathes, etc so maybe it just needs to have the tap run through a little more to get past where it "stops"... call ya tom!

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

oh snap over 2000 posts - damn.

 

[Ironmanandy]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Wttool.com has a tap for this application

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/25147/nm/Industrial_Quality_Bottoming_Hand_Taps_WT_

Its 54.00 They just are not long enough to get a full depth cut. I have an extension on mine for the tubing but I think its just a burr in the thread or something. Get some tapping fluid from your local hardware store. the quart bottles from rigid are normally $7.00. These are super handy to have on hand though for in the future if you take things apart to make changes you can run the tap in everything to clean it all out again.
Andy

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Wttool.com has a tap for this application

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/25147/nm/Industrial_Quality_Bottoming_Hand_Taps_WT_

Its 54.00 They just are not long enough to get a full depth cut. I have an extension on mine for the tubing but I think its just a burr in the thread or something. Get some tapping fluid from your local hardware store. the quart bottles from rigid are normally $7.00. These are super handy to have on hand though for in the future if you take things apart to make changes you can run the tap in everything to clean it all out again.
Andy

cool man will do - i think i have a bottle of taping fluid somewhere for the drill press but i will check today with my friend to see if we can scrounge up a tap

thanks man!

oh and the other arm threads fine so i think it is a matter of depth like you said

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

cool man will do - i think i have a bottle of taping fluid somewhere for the drill press but i will check today with my friend to see if we can scrounge up a tap

thanks man!

oh and the other arm threads fine so i think it is a matter of depth like you said

ben found a tap and tapped the arm again for me - it looks to be the threads on the joint towards the jam nut are being the issue so we are going to borrow a thread file and get the 12 tpi threads in line and run it up tight -> loosen and then repeat till it goes home...

 

[asp]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Why bother with a thread-specific file? When I have to clean threads by hand I just use a regular set of needle files like these. Just be careful about how you do it.

 

[Ghost]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

Sweet! I knew Andy would get you straight. I was about to tell you to call him. I saw the arms and knew where they came from. Looks good but, when ou do break the front look into the RCV's I was impressed with what I saw at the Crawl so far. I ran the 44 with 36 IROC's and broke a ujoint the first time out. Then the third time out broke a shaft. Tack the caps to the shaft or use full circle clips and it will live a little bit longer IMHO.

 

[aparke4]

Re: 1 Ton and Done!

ok so I think i have found my tire wheel set up...

was going to go with hummer h2's but i want to DIY beadlock and the h1 recenters are nice but get pretty heavy so i have read...

so

i am going with a 17x9 cragar soft 8 @ 5 inches of back spacing steel rims with a 37 inch tire in a 13.5 width radial... that way i solve all my clearance problems (no caliper grind) and can DIY beadlock pretty easily in the future... the 17 rim for the time being has a much better lip for holding the tire than the 16.5 rims... the tires are going to be a hodge podge of tires i can get in pairs... might run two maxxis creepys in rear and maybe some procomp x terrains in the front... trying to do on the cheap unless i find a set of 4 for a good deal

also some info on the front HD 44 for any one who cares i found:

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-21911.html

The Dana 44HD is the best of class Dana 44's. The housing is beefier, the tubes are .5" thick walled. The carriers are the same across the Ford Dana 44 all 30 spline and will interchange.,The bolt bolt spindle will interchange with the standard Dana 44. The wheel bearings are unique. The inner bearing is Dana 60 class. The outer is Dana 44 class. The caliper, and bracket for the HD is the same used on the Dana 60. They will interchange. So, no 15" rims on these. The axle shafts from a std 44 are too short to go into an HD. They are about .5" too short, on both sides. The yoke shoulder at the end of the axle will bottom out against the knuckle and still only be half way through the side gears.

This seems to be an area of confusion. Most people refer to all F250 Dana 44’s as Heavy Duty, they are not.
1969-1975 are Heavy Duty axle, but with drum brakes and huge closed king pins. Also in the time the F250 had a small housing, Dana 44/30 sized closed knuckles.

Then the split is 1976-1977.5, which used a large external hub. (Hint this one is the disc brake axle that uses the “dana 60” bearing stated above.

Last is the 1977.5-1979 F250 housing this axle has much smaller lock-outs than the 76-77.5 axle. This axle is often referred to as Heavy Duty, but was never called so by Spicer. (or in the books I have) Sure the housing is much stronger, but I’m still not a fan of calling it a HD axle. (Heck the F100 housing of 73-74 is just has strong)

All of the Ford HD44s made after 77.5 will be high pinion (aka reverse spiral/amboid) gearsets. So they swap. HD D44s made before 77.5 will be low pinion.

And I don't think you can put 15" wheels on any of them. It should use the same brakes as the D60.