2000 xj Where to start

[Evan03]

Lots of great info here.

Id contact accutuneoffroad.com for shocks valved for your application along with whatever long arm front you decide to run.

Good shocks will transform your rig getting closer to sxs comfort goal.
Bilstien 5100s and the like are just cookie cutter over the counter shocks.

 

[gjones5252]

Here's a set I built for my Cheromanche......... https://naxja.org/threads/gen-ii-sliders.901851/

Yeah those look great! I’ll refer to them as I am planning.

 

[gjones5252]

Lots of great info here.

Id contact accutuneoffroad.com for shocks valved for your application along with whatever long arm front you decide to run.

Good shocks will transform your rig getting closer to sxs comfort goal.
Bilstien 5100s and the like are just cookie cutter over the counter shocks.

That’s good to know. I didn’t know they needed to be tuned. Thank you! Added to the list!!

 

[Tim_MN]

The Jeep factory gas tank skid is adequate. I have a Rusty's transfer case skid.

I built and installed my own rock rails one Saturday morning.

 

[gjones5252]

The Jeep factory gas tank skid is adequate. I have a Rusty's transfer case skid.

I built and installed my own rock rails one Saturday morning.

Ok awesome thank you!
Dang I wish I could just bust some out that fast. Good work.

 

[Evan03]

Took a few friends for a rip in my jeep yesterday. Did some slow vertical climbs getting the holy shit i cant believe your jeep crawled that comments.

Twinkle in my eye. You guys wanna go fast. Yeah, well maybe buckle up. Fast rolling badger mounds at fifty king coil overs lovin it screaming for more faster.

Your jeeps so awesome our tacoma cant do this lol.

My xj was my first time doing valved shocks. They are set up from accutune for my jeeps weight, tire, size, driving style and my actual suspension geometry.

Over the counter shocks are fine but. They arent intended to work for every jeep they arent intended for a go fast jeep or a go slow jeep. Kinda like one size fits all underware.

Setting up 2.0 or 2.5 resivor shocks will take more money more time and more work but will be a game changer and can run with the faster side by sides comfortably. Many will argue this is impossible.
One friend even sold his utv after ridding in my jeep at speed.

Im currently testing 2.5 resivor foa shocks on my f150. Its now a 80 mph rig in the wasboard and is 100 times more stable with dirt bikes in the bed on the pavement
Its an adrenalin rush launching off cattle gaurds at freeway speeds.

The foa stuff runs about half of the cost of fox and king and also have a large selection of pin tops for stockish jeep mounting.

So far my foa shocks have no leaks and valving foa did for me is great

Stinky fab 3 link would be a great starting point to build a go fast build around. Id probly go 3" lift. Fabbed my 3 think after lots of time talking to sfr
Call sfr and tell them your goals they are great to talk to.

 

[Cottontail]

I made a forest rig that can run a rock garden out of a 2001 Anniversary Edition XJ. Did it all on the cheap with junkyard parts and some aftermarket parts. I found a factory XJ 4.10 front axle and a Ford 8.8 rear axle out of the junk yard. Got a rear lunchbox locker from a guy on , and bought a new front lunchbox. I did a 3.5" lift kit (springs, and coils), and then bought an SYE new. I went 2 inches higher with a coil spacer on the front, and Dodge Ram shackles on the rear. My armor was all purchased new. My steering is a hodgepodge of new and junkyard parts. For example, went with the V8 XJ tie rod. I'm running 31" tires and I've not found much that has stopped me. With the purchase of the Jeep included, I'm well under $10,000 invested. Never any worry about the 0331 head. It's been a great engine and great Jeep. 160K on it and it's been rolled - still running me around the mountains.

 

[gjones5252]

I made a forest rig that can run a rock garden out of a 2001 Anniversary Edition XJ. Did it all on the cheap with junkyard parts and some aftermarket parts. I found a factory XJ 4.10 front axle and a Ford 8.8 rear axle out of the junk yard. Got a rear lunchbox locker from a guy on , and bought a new front lunchbox. I did a 3.5" lift kit (springs, and coils), and then bought an SYE new. I went 2 inches higher with a coil spacer on the front, and Dodge Ram shackles on the rear. My armor was all purchased new. My steering is a hodgepodge of new and junkyard parts. For example, went with the V8 XJ tie rod. I'm running 31" tires and I've not found much that has stopped me. With the purchase of the Jeep included, I'm well under $10,000 invested. Never any worry about the 0331 head. It's been a great engine and great Jeep. 160K on it and it's been rolled - still running me around the mountains.

That’s awesome. Good to hear you don’t always have to buy brand new.
What brand armor did you go with?

 

[Jeepedo129]

As others have mentioned, Frame stiffeners are the best place to start on an XJ. Not just for the extra rigidity but it also cuts down on some of the resonant noise from the jeep. It's still a unibody, but on both jeeps that I have done frame stiffeners I noticed a noise reduction on road.
Dana 30 is a good axle, and there are lots of aftermarket support for them. However with the 2000 the Dana 30 in there is a Low pinon axle. It's not as desirable as the High Pinon D30 that came in previous years due to driveline angles and it is marginally weaker design since the ring gear is being pushed instead of pulled by the pinion. However, for you I don't think that really should be a concern. Just know that when you go to buy Lockers and Gears that you have a LP diff and will need standard cut gears instead of reverse cut.
Also, on the 2000, jeep liked to throw a D35 in the rear for giggles i think. In previous years, only jeeps with ABS had the D35 but apparently in 2000-2001 they started throwing them in there. I'm sure there is a reason but I'm not aware of it. I made this mistake on mine, thought I had a 8.25 and instead I ended up having a D35. D35 is an OK axle. But as you'll find many people despise them like the plague. The axle is defiantly not as reliable as the 8.25 once you go bigger tires and gears. Just stuff to consider. Not saying you need to swap out the D35 if you have it, but a lot of people ditch them for either a 98-99 C8.25 (29 Spline), Ford 8.8 out of a Ranger/Explorer, or D44 out of something.

Also, If you're going higher than 3" I would recommend doing a Slip Yoke Eliminator on the rear output shaft of your transfer case. You'll pick up driveline vibes with the stock driveline, even with a Transfer Case drop kit installed. Several different flavors to choose from. Hack n' Tap or a full yoke replacement. Comes down to preference.

Long arms will give you the best ride and off road performance compared to the short arms. 4 link kits are coming more available now and are more preferred over the radius arm set ups that most long arm kits are. But either set up will work better than what you got. Long arms will also allow you to recenter your wheel in the wheel well. Couple of recommendations on long arm kits though, Make sure the crossmember has the ability to drop the center section in case you need to remove the transmission or transfer case. Having to disconnect all your front suspension just to drop the transmission pan is a royal PITA. Also, If you are mostly driving on road or dirt roads, I'd go with poly bushings on the axle end just for noise reduction.

But most importantly - Get the jeep out there and get it dirty. Upgrade it as issues or limitations arise haha.