New 3 Link Long Arm Crossmember

Alright so after talking to some of my customers and talking to guys on jeep forums I decided to make some changes to the crossmember that comes with the 3 link long arm upgrade I sale.

Originally it was just this. which was plenty beefy but there are a couple things i didnt like.



First, i wasnt so found of the link mounts being directly part of the crossmember. This meant in order to do any drive train work you had to block the front axle, take off the links, then drop the crossmember. Then put it all back together and align it again. Second I thought that it looked a little to blocky. Looks arent exactly everything but eh... Plus i guess it could cause you to get caught up on some ledges. Last I figured if i was going to revamp it, I might as well do it right. So I added a tcase skid as well since those things hang so far down...
So this is what I got.









Any ideas, thoughts and concerns, or constructive criticism would be good.

looks good

crush sleeved i assume?

ever run the numbers?

any pics of your finished product?

and who are you? (just never seen you around before on several jeep sites, nevermind selling longarm kits)

X2 on who are you.

And I have some questions
1.) hex stock? so are those solid links? whats the dia? why not DOM?
2.) why rod ends on the lower arms and not RE style johnny joints?
3.) And this will come with an upper link axle mount as well then?
4.) Target pricing?


I would also like to see some numbers on this, upper link mount on the x member side seems a bit low but it's hard to tell so don't hold me to it.

Sorry, I never really introduced myself. Im a guy from washington who has been building lift kits for abour 7 years. I started in high school and did my first 3 link for my senior project on my 87 cherokee. Ever since then there has been alot of people interested in my work, contantly getting stopped and asked where i bought the lift from. Most people wanted me to design and or build them setups for there vehicles. From Solid Axle Conversions with leaf springs to 3 links and triangulated 4 links. My friends all told me i needed to start a legit business, and after my first long arm build thread I posted on here it seems to be coming around.
I still work full time, this is just something extra on the side. Out of highschool I did new house construction, then worked at irwin research and development as a machinist and engineer. Honestly I work at office depot now, saling computers and working on them. I got layed off from Irwin like alot of people and no one is hiring around here in my line of work.
I've been around on naxja here and there, I try to stay tied in. Im also a member of nw-wheelers and insanityfab.

Alright, enough for the bio. lol

I dont know how to post the whole calculator but this is what i got with a rough estimate on COG.
About 6 inches of lift on 35s
Anti-squat/anti-dive - 103%
Roll-axis angle - 7.02 degrees
Roll-cneter height - 23"
instant center x - 69"
instant center z - 23.5

1 yes, solid hex stock. 1-1/4 from flat to flat. When i first started making lifts we had the scrap hex (anything shorter than 35") laying around at irwin. Its strong, never going to bend, not to mention it looks sweet. lol I get alot of comments on the unique look of my product. Also, solid ends up being cheaper, faster, and cleaner to produce. Turn, drill, and tap the ends and your done. Verse turn, drill, and tap a tube adapter then weld it into DOM.

2. rod ends are more practical for many reasons. Better availability, smaller for more clearance but still plenty strong, and able to use in more applications. ie steering, track bars, ec. I do also offer greasable poly bushings from Ballistic on the axle side if prefered for a more on road friendly ride but still a thread on insert for easy adjustment. I use heims on my daily driver, I like how it handles, but some people dont like to feel every crack in the road...

3. Yes, the kit is pretty easy to install. It uses the 3 stock threaded holes on both sides, then Drill 9/16 through the "frame" rails, and 3/4 on the outside for the anticrush sleeves except on the front drivers side which uses a flag nut. The only welding needed is the UCA axle mount which is also included and is used for the new axle track bar mount as well when you order the steering and or track bar upgrade.

4. Before I revamped my design, the kit with the UCA axle mount, crossmember and skid, and links + all the hardware needed was selling for 600. I believe that 700 for the new design with the skid is plenty reasonable and still better priced than other manufacturers. There is a waiting period of course cause I only work with a couple guys but that will hopefully get better.

The upper mount on the crossmember cant be any higher without going through the floor and I didnt want to sacrifice clearance to lower the lower mount. Seperation at the axle is 7.7 and almost 5 at the crossmember.

Feel free to ask any more questions.

Oh, and the whole crossmember is laser cut then press broke 1/4" plate welded at the seems. I considered 3/16 for the actual crossmember center section and skid but i figured 1/4 would make customers more happy.

Let's say I wanted Ballistic joints on the axle end of both lowers and both ends of the upper while using Ballistic poly bushings on the crossmember end of the lowers, could you do that/would that work? Im not real familiar with building a working suspension so maybe that joint setup isnt even possible for all I know.

Do you have a website set up? I know I have seen your kit surfing around here and it looked good, let's see those pictures!

Edit: looking further at the crossmember, it looks like the trans mount bolts would come through the crossmember and bolt to the outside of it leaving the bolts exposed? Is that just how it looks on here?

Holy crap. me likey!

Any plans to offer a 4 link version for those Jeepspeed folks?

MG2000XJ said:

Let's say I wanted Ballistic joints on the axle end of both lowers and both ends of the upper while using Ballistic poly bushings on the crossmember end of the lowers, could you do that/would that work? Im not real familiar with building a working suspension so maybe that joint setup isnt even possible for all I know.

Do you have a website set up? I know I have seen your kit surfing around here and it looked good, let's see those pictures!

Edit: looking further at the crossmember, it looks like the trans mount bolts would come through the crossmember and bolt to the outside of it leaving the bolts exposed? Is that just how it looks on here?

Click to expand...

Were you wanting the ballistic joint so that it would be rebuildable? I would definitely be able to get that done for you. I would just have to drop down the LCA mounts on the crossmember a little bit for clearance of the over all bigger joint. You would have to pay the difference in price for your joint choice of course. The heims I use are 7/8s - 3/4 bore, heat treated, chromoly heim joints using a 3/4 to 5/8s misalignment spacer. They last a long time especially if paired with a poly bushing.

The main thing I want from my product is customer input. If there is something you would like customized to fit your specific need then I can do it.

I do not have a website setup yet. Know anyone good with the artsy side of graphic design? Im only good with the mechanical side. lol I dont even have a company name picked out for sure. I was thinking either Froehlich Suspension Technology or Lead Foot Suspension Technology. The only thing is I do more than just suspension work. And If i used my last name then what will I use as a logo? This is all the stuff im not good at but I probably over think.

As far as the tranny mount bolt skid... I didnt draw it on there yet. I was just planning on using plate with 4 bigger holes cut out to allow for socket clearance to acces the nuts, also bent at 45 degrees on the front and back then welded to the bottom. Unless anyone else had a better idea.

got an estimated price? Looks sweet.

jeeperjohn said:

Any plans to offer a 4 link version for those Jeepspeed folks?

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I could get the ball rolling on a 4 link, I honestly dont know too much about the jeep speed "scene" but it could be done lol The main problem is working around the driveline and such... Let me look into it.
I do also plan on coming out with a rear triangulated 4 link conversion building off of this crossmember and extending the frame stiffeners back. Lots to be updated soon.
Man I do really need a website!

Thanks for your interests guys.

redrider2911 said:

4. Before I revamped my design, the kit with the UCA axle mount, crossmember and skid, and links + all the hardware needed was selling for 600. I believe that 700 for the new design with the skid is plenty reasonable and still better priced than other manufacturers. There is a waiting period of course cause I only work with a couple guys but that will hopefully get better.

Click to expand...

There ya go 90:cheers:

Maybe for the trans mount instead of another large piece welded on the skid lowering it you could do something like the beadlock bolt protector spacers like these:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Bolt-Protector-Spacer-38quot-4016-pack41_p_1684.html Make them just high enough to cover the trans nuts and cut the rest of the threaded portion flush?

90XJay said:

got an estimated price? Looks sweet.

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Number (4) in my first reply has the price, I know its alot of text to go through. I just like to talk. :yap:
Should be about 700 with all hardware and base line joint setup. (7/8s heat treated chromoly heims all the way around) For poly bushings. Add 20$ per bushing.

sorry was to busy looking at the perty pictures

are you strictly jeep cherokees? like the looks of the kit and its overall construction. looks pretty stout. i might just order one when i decide to man up and get bigger tires.have you designed it around the 242 case or the 231?

It is designed around a 231. I hear the 242s hang lower correct? I've never owned or worked on one so I dont know what the difference is on dimensions.
I have done lots of custom work, im just a big jeep guy and thats what I own and decided to build my business on since thats what I know the best. If anyone needs a custom job done on a vehicle that I dont have a setup drawn up for I wont turn them down. They just have to realize it takes time to design something perfect for their needs.

yes i think the 242 hangs a little lower.

Say I know this guy with an XJ on 33's and roughly 5" of lift. Would this work on such a setup?

think you could come up with a 3 link setup for a 94 yota 22re 5 speed? would it cost me extra for the initial design/fab or would you cover that on your end? i will be using dana 44 out of a fsj and fabbing my own coil buckets and control arm brackets