How hard are they to do?My jeep has a bad wobble and I can't do over 45! my front axle slides left to right when I drive. but anyways some guy told me they were harder than hell....and that there pressed in there....he told me its like a 4 hour job? Is this true because I would like to do it myself to save on cash but not if there that hard!!!! anybody ever done them?
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Control arm bushing replacement?
- Thread starter XJEEPER04
- Start date
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
I would just find someone who has old ones to get rid of after putting on some aftermarket ones.
Yucca-Man
NAXJA Member # 683
- Location
- Castle Rock, CO
Your front axle slides left-right? How's your trackbar??
cherokeekid95
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- york, pa
I have not done it myself but i have heard the same about them being a major PITA.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Yeah, it's not fun...but first let's get a couple things straigtened out before you do it...
Track Bar, sounds to me like yours is shot (because your axle is moving), I would replace it first off.
Now, the wobble. Before you start replacing everything in the front end (I've done that) I would go out and get a wheel alignment and balancing done at a good shop. That is the cause of the wobble most times.
If you really want to change out your control arm bushings, be my guest, here's what you should do...
First, go out and buy yourself new lower control arms (the cost of OEM ones is just about the same as bushings), if you're running no lift or up to 3" you can get OEM ones, http://www.quadratec.com/ will be your friend here (go to Cherokee, then Hard Parts, you'll find them there cheap, note: These are sold in single units, you will need two, don't make the same mistake I did!) Get new Upper arms as well.
Now, the only bushings you have to change are the ones at the Upper Arm to Axle mount. Those are not fun to do! A good replacement is Napa part number NCP 2671372 These come in pairs, be warned.
Now, start out by putting the new bushings in the freezer, this will aid with installation. Get yourself a drill and drill out the rubber part of the old bushings, then remove the inner part. Now you're ready to start beating it. Get your BFH, some penetrating lube, and a screwdriver. Spary the lube, and try to beat the bushing out. If that doesn't work well you can try to collapse it a bit by beating the outer shell of the bushing in, you should be able to deform it enough to get it out. It ain't easy, but it's not too bad once you've done one.
Also, here's what I did...I took one of my old upper arms and removed the bushing from it, just to train myself. That way you can figure out how to attack it with something easier to get to.
When installing I used a 2" pipe cap to drive it in, that way the force was spread around just the lip of the bushing. I ended up removing my coils to do it, it gave me more room to swing the hammer.
Anyway, do the alignemnt and balance first, you don't want to do this job unless you have to.
Sequoia
Track Bar, sounds to me like yours is shot (because your axle is moving), I would replace it first off.
Now, the wobble. Before you start replacing everything in the front end (I've done that) I would go out and get a wheel alignment and balancing done at a good shop. That is the cause of the wobble most times.
If you really want to change out your control arm bushings, be my guest, here's what you should do...
First, go out and buy yourself new lower control arms (the cost of OEM ones is just about the same as bushings), if you're running no lift or up to 3" you can get OEM ones, http://www.quadratec.com/ will be your friend here (go to Cherokee, then Hard Parts, you'll find them there cheap, note: These are sold in single units, you will need two, don't make the same mistake I did!) Get new Upper arms as well.
Now, the only bushings you have to change are the ones at the Upper Arm to Axle mount. Those are not fun to do! A good replacement is Napa part number NCP 2671372 These come in pairs, be warned.
Now, start out by putting the new bushings in the freezer, this will aid with installation. Get yourself a drill and drill out the rubber part of the old bushings, then remove the inner part. Now you're ready to start beating it. Get your BFH, some penetrating lube, and a screwdriver. Spary the lube, and try to beat the bushing out. If that doesn't work well you can try to collapse it a bit by beating the outer shell of the bushing in, you should be able to deform it enough to get it out. It ain't easy, but it's not too bad once you've done one.
Also, here's what I did...I took one of my old upper arms and removed the bushing from it, just to train myself. That way you can figure out how to attack it with something easier to get to.
When installing I used a 2" pipe cap to drive it in, that way the force was spread around just the lip of the bushing. I ended up removing my coils to do it, it gave me more room to swing the hammer.
Anyway, do the alignemnt and balance first, you don't want to do this job unless you have to.
Sequoia
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Those are what's in mine right now...dunno man...craziness!
- Location
- Torrance, CA
I have a few more at home that I didn't use, I can take a look at them wheenver I get back tehre.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
These are the part #'s I have upper ncp267-1372 and lower ncp267-3409
moog # for upper k3131 about 11.00 for 2
moog # for upper k3131 about 11.00 for 2
well guys ive got it all tore down.....parts come in tomarrow. I got the upper and lowers for 15 bucks and i hope they come with the steel sleve! they were so shot i didnt even have to pound them out they just kinda fell out! what do you guys think they will charge to press the new ones in?????
- Location
- Torrance, CA
That's how mine was, a bit loose, but that's also how the OEM one was as well 
My plan is when I put my RE arms on (as soon as I get them) get a larger bolt and use it (I still have some spare bushings lying around). When I do that I'll let you know the size I get (since I have the luxury of taking a non-deformed bushing into the hardware store
My plan is when I put my RE arms on (as soon as I get them) get a larger bolt and use it (I still have some spare bushings lying around). When I do that I'll let you know the size I get (since I have the luxury of taking a non-deformed bushing into the hardware store
Moto
NAXJA Member #576
- Location
- Right Field Bleachers
you could just replace the whole arms that come with bushings from Quadratec i think they are only something like 20 a piece and a new stock trackbar is cheap too.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
ChiXJeff said:
Is the bolt an original one ?.
ssnsltd
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ft. Bragg, NC
FWIW:
I just started replacing all of my rubber for Poly. I have a pretty bad "death wobble" thing going on.
I got a complete kit from JC Whitney.
Anyway- I just uploaded some pics to my
Sucky Web site :looser:
I can use the auto craft shop on post, so it is not much of a problem. From what I have done so far, I would say the front could be done with hand tools and afloor jack. It will take a little time though.
I am doing the last upper and the leaf springs this Saturday.
I just started replacing all of my rubber for Poly. I have a pretty bad "death wobble" thing going on.
I got a complete kit from JC Whitney.
Anyway- I just uploaded some pics to my
Sucky Web site :looser:
I can use the auto craft shop on post, so it is not much of a problem. From what I have done so far, I would say the front could be done with hand tools and afloor jack. It will take a little time though.
I am doing the last upper and the leaf springs this Saturday.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
Well Jeff as I recall the early bushings had stamped indentations inside the bushing sleeve to use a smaller diameter bolt but the bushings have superceded 2-3 times since then. In 97 the axle end bolt was no longer serviced. Here are the specs for it. M10x1.50x75. The body end bolt is part # 6505153AA which is a M10x1.50x85.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
ssnsltd said:
Poly is great if you want very little give (why track racers use it) but it will add stress to other parts if you plan on flexing it up off road and this is where the compliance of rubber is best. Ideally the Johnny Joint is the best of both (the control of poly with a spherical bearing).
