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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

all the OD accumulator does it keep the shift from engaging hard. basically when the gear is engaged the od circuit is filled with pressurized fluid but before it gives full pressure to the gear it must overcome the pressure of the spring on the accumulator piston. it makes it shift softer (SLIP) if you were to block a portion of the pistons travel with a rod or put in a heavier spring it would just shift firmer due to faster engagement of the gear.


This past weekend I tore into the trans to check out the valve body to see if it might be the culprit. I took apart every valve and small parts to make sure everything was in there correctly. Everything checked out...except for the OD accumulator clutch spring. What was in there looks like one of the springs included with the transgo shift kit. Luckily I just picked up a trans that I could rob the parts off of (Thank you Flores and Mike!).

Pictured on the left is the spring that I took out. The two on the right are what were supposed to be there.



From the transgo shift kit instructions...



Gotta love finding all these mistakes in something that I had paid good money for. :gonnablow This thing has been fighting me for over a year now. It makes me wonder what else could be wrong internally.

It does seem to shift better, and not require as much throttle in over drive to maintain speed. I'm hoping it'll now pass emissions so I can finally start driving this thing again! :confused1
 
Got the cross member mostly done. Still will be adding a t case and trans skid to this. T case is mostly rebuilt. Re clocked the t case up nice and high. Pretty excited it lined up the first time. Also started on the front bumper. Hacked out the cracked factory Cross member and will be plating and tubing. Should make the winch high and tight to front. I'll throw up a pic when I get one worth showing

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I've been working on designing my tire carrier in my spare time. I've tried to keep it light while keeping it strong. I also hate carrier designs that push the tire 1' past the back of the Jeep, so this will be nice and tight with a little wiggle room. I should also mention that I don't have an interest in selling these at this time. Maybe once I can afford a brick and mortar shop. :guitar:

Whatcha think?

 
Is there no way to put it up top of the bumper? I know there would be more leverage on the bumper and the swingout, but I think it looks better and helps not drag it off-road.
 
Is there no way to put it up top of the bumper? I know there would be more leverage on the bumper and the swingout, but I think it looks better and helps not drag it off-road.

Not really. The bumper is really tight to the body so it only sticks out about 3" or so.

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The oil pan is so much easier to deal with when there's no axle in the way.

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With a lift it is also easy to pull the pan I hate working on stock Jeeps everything is so hard to reach and no room under it . I really wish I had put a new oil pump in when I did my rear main seal . I still have Two of the Three seals I bought since I got the install right 1st time , which we know wod not have happened had I bought just One seal .
 
Tom, someone beat you to it. It'll tell me fuel trims, which is what I'm interested in. Lot's of other info, pretty much the same as the snap-on scan tool.

 
I've been following this. It looks nice. Mine has a color graphics display and the ability to do some other things, but mine will cost more.
 
Buddy has an stock 00 or 01 with like 3xx,xxx miles on it and I told him to buy 31s because he needed new tires really bad.
He got them on today and then after work we did front trimming and pinch weld and then did a cut and fold in the back in two hours flat. I would post pictures, but I am entirely too lazy and spoiled with other forums that just let you post pics right off of your phone and not use a long process with a hosting website...
 
Been trying to figure out a good t case skid. Basically what I've come up with is just a big piece of 1/4 plate bolted on to the new cross member and one of the frame rails. I clocked the case up so it can be totally flat. I was planning on adding some 1/8x1 ribs to the the plate for some more rigidity. Does anyone think that would not be strong enough? Basically I want to be able to drag it over whatever and not have to worry about it.
 
Bend a hoop to weld onto the cross member. You can use lighter material for the plate that welds to the hoop.
 
That was actually my plan. I bent a tube up, then realized I couldn't get to the drive shaft bolts without dropping the whole thing. Ifi made it smaller it would offer less protection. So I figured a bolt on skid would be easier to work around while protecting more
 
Run another crossmember behind the T-Case and mount the skid to the two crossmembers. You could use 3/16 plate, or even better use some 1/8 and dimple die it, then put a sheet of uhmw under that. The dimple dies will increase the rigidity of the thinner sheet allowing you to save weight and the uhmw will slide much better over the rocks.

Get some of these for your crossmember mounting bolts under the frame rails.

https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_parts/bolt_protectors_tnt_customs
 
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