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tow rig

eflores said:
jocob does make "jake brakes" for small diesels FYI all "jake brakes" are exhaust breaks. big trucks just utilize the valves to stop the exhaust instead of the big butterfly u see in small truck applications. can you tell i work on big truck for a living :)
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Thats what I get for assuming lol, don't Jake Brakes open the exhaust valve so that no compression happens? Wouldn't that require new heads or something major? eflores educate me please if you don't mind.
 
Considering that site is Jacobs Vehicle Systems...... you'd be wrong. Everything is on there from the light duty butterfly exhaust brake to the heavy duty engine and bleeder brakes.
 
Sigh, guess you didn't understand what we we're saying here...did you read the link to see what I was trying to say or just get pissed off because I didn't agree? Here is another something I found in my searches: A Jake brake is a Jacobs Engine Brake and is designed for the big truck's as it sit's on top of the valve train and when it's turned on it actually holds open the exaust valve to release the air out of the cylinder's to help the engine slow down faster which in turn helps the truck slow down. When you hear a truck slowing down and hear all the extra noise from the exaust, that's the Jake brake. They are rated in retarding horsepower, which is usually pretty close to the engine horsepower output. So a 500 hp engine might get 450 Retarding hp with a jake.

An exhaust brake basically shuts off your exhaust pipe (almost) and forces the exhaust to stay in the cylinder's and that in turn forces your piston's and rods and crank to slow down because it has to recompress the air again. The trick is to close the pipe enough to slow you down but not to much to stall the engine or possibly bend a rod or break some other internal part.

The jake brake slightly opens the exhaust valves on the engine when the piston is near top dead center (where ignition normally occurs). On the upstroke, the piston compresses the air in the cylinder to 1/15th its original volume. This creates a lot of drag on the engine. The Jake Brake then releases the compressed air, and the energy stored in it, before it can push back on the piston during the downstroke. In addition, releasing the compression prevents any fuel in the cylinder from igniting. So, you've got drag on the upstroke, no power on the downstroke.

The "Jacobs Brake" was invented by Cummins and then "Jake Brake" company bought the patent so they can call it what they want. There is a difference between the exhaust brake and jake brake, so in truth...you'd be wrong.

*info was taken from www.dieselplace.com and asme.org
 
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pics!!!! 97 Dodge 3500 cummins


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id like to remove that and all the chrome. dad thinks it looks good with the chrome. but i dont like it with white lol.
 
Nice rig man Im sure youll be more then happy pulling with that!
 
couple things. set your timing to about 16º, get a 3k governor spring kit (if it doesn't allready have one), and put in a #10 fuel plate (if it doesn't allready have one). Also add a mystery switch to lock the TC. Also add a boost elbow and gauges. EGT, boost pressure and trans temp.
Don't push the stock turbo past 32 psi. It just becomes in efficient and your EGT's will climb. Once you do all that, plan on having your transmission crap out on you before to long. But don't worry. if you know how to wrench then rebuilding that 47re is alot easier than people think. pull the Valve body and send it to suncoast converters in exchange for a rebuilt unit that has been tuned and updated for diesels. Also order up a billet cover single disc TC.
I have a 96'. I'm rebuilding the motor due to a faulty bypass oil filter system. My best milage was 23 when I could maintain control of my right foot. I don't give a shit about being the fastest diesel on my local roads. Its fast enough and stays drivable. I've pulled a 10% grade @ 55mph while loaded with a lance camper, trailer and jeep with a GCVW of 18k and my EGT's stayed under 1200º. Check the turbo for play, any and you need to get it rebuild.
buy the tools to do the timing yourself. It takes me 30 minutes to set mine. if you wan't help, hit me back channel and i'll give you my cell #. I can talk ya through it.
Don't overboost it, overrev it beyond 3k, push the EGT's or fueling. and keep up on your maintenance and that motor will last you for years.
 
wow, sound like alot. does all that need to be done at once? can the timing be set by itself and still gain power?
 
Rawbrown said:
couple things. set your timing to about 18º, get a 4k governor spring kit (if it doesn't allready have one), and put in a #10 fuel plate (if it doesn't allready have one). Also add a mystery switch to lock the TC. Also add a boost elbow and gauges. EGT, boost pressure and trans temp.
Don't push the stock turbo past 35-37 psi. It just becomes in efficient and your EGT's will climb. Once you do all that, plan on having your transmission crap out on you before to long. But don't worry. if you know how to wrench then rebuilding that 47re is alot easier than people think. pull the Valve body and send it to suncoast converters in exchange for a rebuilt unit that has been tuned and updated for diesels. Also order up a billet cover single disc TC.
I have a 96'. I'm rebuilding the motor due to a faulty bypass oil filter system. My best milage was 23 when I could maintain control of my right foot. I don't give a shit about being the fastest diesel on my local roads. Its fast enough and stays drivable. I've pulled a 10% grade @ 55mph while loaded with a lance camper, trailer and jeep with a GCVW of 18k and my EGT's stayed under 1200º. Check the turbo for play, any and you need to get it rebuild.
buy the tools to do the timing yourself. It takes me 30 minutes to set mine. if you wan't help, hit me back channel and i'll give you my cell #. I can talk ya through it.
Don't overboost it, overrev it beyond 4k, push the EGT's or fueling. and keep up on your maintenance and that motor will last you for years.
Click to expand...

along with all the XXXX ups i fixered above
add dont go over 1250 degree's on the EGT's and before you roast the trans do a billet torque converter and upgrade your valve body ans it should stick together then cut off your muffler and cat and add straight pipe. sounds great and lowers EGT's helps el turbo spool faster and whatever you do dont use marine 370 injectors and you really dont need a plate. take yours out and drive it. you'll like it. do some reading on CF about AFC mods and full rack travel etc its all in the beginners thread
 
Im running glow shift gauges as well as my brother and many friends Its a much cheaper alternative.. My trans, egt, and boost gauges with senders and pillar cost me 180 to my door.
 
eflores said:
along with all the XXXX ups i fixered above
add dont go over 1250 degree's on the EGT's and before you roast the trans do a billet torque converter and upgrade your valve body ans it should stick together then cut off your muffler and cat and add straight pipe. sounds great and lowers EGT's helps el turbo spool faster and whatever you do dont use marine 370 injectors and you really dont need a plate. take yours out and drive it. you'll like it. do some reading on CF about AFC mods and full rack travel etc its all in the beginners thread
Click to expand...
eflores, they aren't fawkups, I'm just not in the habit of telling people to push there junk past a safe threshold like you did.
Sure you can push the timing to 18 and the turbo to 35-37. But I'm advising against it for the sake of reliability. I personally run 17º and I'm turning it back down 1/2º. If your willing to run the risk of popping the head gasket.:badpc: Especially at 35psi of boost.:passgas: And if you forget to watch the EGT's while your pushing hard up that grade @ 70mph you just might melt a piston. but don't worry, you can pull the head, raise the block to remove the oilpan, pull the one piston, hone the cylinder if the scoring isn't too deep and put a good used piston back in with fresh rings.:explosion
If you want to run 18º then spend the money on ARP head studs. There are 2 ways to push the power on these motors. I'm trying to advise you in a safe reliable way.
and about the turbo, yes it can push 35 psi. but its not as efficient at the pressure. the stock HX35 is most efficient at 20-25 psi, and can reliably blow 30-32 psi. But, the harder you push the turbo, the sooner youll have to rebuild it.
Oh, and if you want to add a 4k GSK like he suggested, then you need to install 60psi exhaust valve springs.
I digress. if you want to push the motor hard, then you need to read up for yourself through all the cummins forums and decide on what to do for yourself. If you want to just drive the truck and have enough on tap to pull whatever you need and stay reliable, then don't push it.
 
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