THe NAC Lots-O-Tech Thread

[themangeraaad]

I'm planning on running the 8.25 with 33's untill I'm out of school. Funds are tight like with everyone else. Once I do get out I plan on running a similar set-up to what you are currently running.

When do you get out of school?

I may have the XJ width 9" with 4.88s and detroit and D30 w/ 4.88s and truetrac up for sale as of next spring. Not sure if you would be interested but just something to think about. Mind you that is all dependent on a number of things falling into place correctly this coming year. But hey, figured I would give you the heads up incase that tied in with when you were going to be shopping for upgrades. (I forget what Colin is running so idk what "similar set-up to what you are currently running" means)

 

[MoparManiac]

I'm planning on running the 8.25 with 33's untill I'm out of school. Funds are tight like with everyone else. Once I do get out I plan on running a similar set-up to what you are currently running.

Could always get a cheap 4.10 D30 and gear the rear to 4.10s (don't need a new carrier for an 8.25).

Wouldn't be ideal but Adam doesn't seem to mind driving around on 35s with 4.10s (granted he has a 4:1 for the trail).

(I forget what Colin is running so idk what "similar set-up to what you are currently running" means)

Basically HP44 front (lockright, "1-ton" steering, some other crap) XJ 44 rear (superior evo 30-spline, 8.8 discs, UBEs, some other crap) and 4.88s.

If I had chromos up front then my setup would be 100% bulletproof on 35s.

 

[kastein]

So question for y'all... you think the unibody took much/any damage? Doesn't look like it, airbags didn't deploy or anything, so I am thinking it might be OK. Then it would just be a matter of dealing with getting a clean MA title once the repairs were done. I dont think it should be too bad to repair and re-inspect; I just don't know why it would have a salvage title with minor damage which makes me take a 2nd thought about whether or not the unibody is fawked.

http://www.copart.com/c2/individualLot.html?lotId=21547259&searchType=onSaleNow

That's about what mine looked like in November 08. Same corner, too. I had to spend an hour and a half with a 6lb hand sledge and a carpenter's hammer straightening out a small amount of the inner fender wall and the first inch or so of the frame rail (just the tab that hangs out and holds the bumper.) Bid on that, assuming it isn't all rust underneath (I didn't really look at the pics aside from the damage shots and to make sure the body lines were still good)

If you need help doing the body work, let me know, been there done that etc.

 

[themangeraaad]

Basically HP44 front (lockright, "1-ton" steering, some other crap) XJ 44 rear (superior evo 30-spline, 8.8 discs, UBEs, some other crap) and 4.88s.

If I had chromos up front then my setup would be 100% bulletproof on 35s.

Alright, thought it was something like that (I skimmed through the build thread reeeal quickly and just looked at pictures).

That's about what mine looked like in November 08. Same corner, too. I had to spend an hour and a half with a 6lb hand sledge and a carpenter's hammer straightening out a small amount of the inner fender wall and the first inch or so of the frame rail (just the tab that hangs out and holds the bumper.) Bid on that, assuming it isn't all rust underneath (I didn't really look at the pics aside from the damage shots and to make sure the body lines were still good)

If you need help doing the body work, let me know, been there done that etc.

Yeah, that's my big concern right now: rust. It looks clean other than that corner, but then again my Jeep looked clean when I got it.

And thanks for the offer. I will keep that in mind. Now none of you can bid on that thing; I don't wnat to be competing against someone else on here. I love how the "estimated repair" is like $2800. I guess that would explain the salvage title. So any guesses on how much it would cost to repair? $200 on a bad day? :roflmao:

 

[mini=man]

When do you get out of school?

I may have the XJ width 9" with 4.88s and detroit and D30 w/ 4.88s and truetrac up for sale as of next spring. Not sure if you would be interested but just something to think about. Mind you that is all dependent on a number of things falling into place correctly this coming year. But hey, figured I would give you the heads up incase that tied in with when you were going to be shopping for upgrades. (I forget what Colin is running so idk what "similar set-up to what you are currently running" means)

I still have 2 years. But for now my set-up will be good for 33's the way I wheel. Plus by the time I do go with built 44's my shell will have far to much redneck weight shaving and it'll be time to move to another shell.

 

[dan42green]

Anybody want to be my Jeep tutor? I need some assistance diagnosing some issues with my XJ's front end. I'm no mechanic by any means and this will frustrate the hell out of me.

99 Sport, 3.5" RE lift, 32" BFG's.

Creak in the front end at low speeds, but most recently this past Saturday, while driving some country roads at 45mph the front end started shaking violently, slowed down and it stopped, I can speed back up and not have it happen. It only occured once driving to my destination and once coming back.

If anyone is near the Torrington area and wants to lend a hand in looking at it, that would be great.

Or just some advice.

 

[asp]

when you say shaking violently, do you mean like crap your pants go off the road tires skidding or a strong shimmy?

 

[MoparManiac]

Anybody want to be my Jeep tutor? I need some assistance diagnosing some issues with my XJ's front end. I'm no mechanic by any means and this will frustrate the hell out of me.

99 Sport, 3.5" RE lift, 32" BFG's.

Creak in the front end at low speeds, but most recently this past Saturday, while driving some country roads at 45mph the front end started shaking violently, slowed down and it stopped, I can speed back up and not have it happen. It only occured once driving to my destination and once coming back.

If anyone is near the Torrington area and wants to lend a hand in looking at it, that would be great.

Or just some advice.

Stock trackbar? Creak makes it sound like a loose trackbar bracket.

 

[asp]

colin has a point. and at your lift, you're starting get to potential DW teritory.

 

[dan42green]

strong shimmy, happened to be driving straight at the time, so i just went off the gas, and lightly braked.

 

[dan42green]

Yes, stock trackbar.

 

[MoparManiac]

Double check the rod end at the frame end bracket of the track bar for play. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look underneath it for any movement (up and down).

Also, did you redrill the bracket at the axle end like the instructions say? If so, check to make sure the hole isn't wallowed out.

 

[themangeraaad]

I have had a strong shimmy at times, though mine was very hard to trigger... so hard that I have only found one spot where it ever happens (but I'll be damned if it didn't happen every time I passed that spot :laugh3.

I started to get the same problem a little bit and replaced my tie rod ends and ball joints along with my wheel hubs since they were iffy and I had them off already. All that tightened it up a lot. I do agree that a trackbar would be a good possibility as I am also on a stock trackbar (with relocation bracket) and I was at about the same height when I had my issues.

 

[themangeraaad]

Also, did you redrill the bracket at the axle end like the instructions say? If so, check to make sure the hole isn't wallowed out.

^^^I have this problem, but mine doesn't creak so much as clunk. I think the hole is a bit big and when i turn I get a slight clunk/pop sound.

 

[kastein]

Alright, thought it was something like that (I skimmed through the build thread reeeal quickly and just looked at pictures).


Yeah, that's my big concern right now: rust. It looks clean other than that corner, but then again my Jeep looked clean when I got it.

And thanks for the offer. I will keep that in mind. Now none of you can bid on that thing; I don't wnat to be competing against someone else on here. I love how the "estimated repair" is like $2800. I guess that would explain the salvage title. So any guesses on how much it would cost to repair? $200 on a bad day? :roflmao:

looks like the hood is undamaged, probably needs a fender, header panel, bumper, lights and misc. plastic. I'd say 200 should do it for you just fine at a junkyard - once you buy it (if you do) start cruising the yards every few days before work looking for matching panels in good shape, you get a much better color match using another factory painted panel than painting it yourself and it's way cheaper. It cost me just under 800 to fix mine but that's because I was a noob and bought new panels (cost a hundred each for header panel + fender including shipping), paint (150 including shipping and clearcoat and primer and whatnot), an air compressor (100), hvlp gun set (100), and a ratchet set and other tools (100) as well as some other stuff. I could do the same job for 100-150 now.

 

[dan42green]

Double check the rod end at the frame end bracket of the track bar for play. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look underneath it for any movement (up and down).

Also, did you redrill the bracket at the axle end like the instructions say? If so, check to make sure the hole isn't wallowed out.

Lift was installed by the previous owner, so I don't know how it was drilled.

I'll try to get someone to turn the wheel for me while I check it out, it's at home and I'm driving my other vehicle right now.

 

[themangeraaad]

looks like the hood is undamaged, probably needs a fender, header panel, bumper, lights and misc. plastic. I'd say 200 should do it for you just fine at a junkyard - once you buy it (if you do) start cruising the yards every few days before work looking for matching panels in good shape, you get a much better color match using another factory painted panel than painting it yourself and it's way cheaper. It cost me just under 800 to fix mine but that's because I was a noob and bought new panels (cost a hundred each for header panel + fender including shipping), paint (150 including shipping and clearcoat and primer and whatnot), an air compressor (100), hvlp gun set (100), and a ratchet set and other tools (100) as well as some other stuff. I could do the same job for 100-150 now.

Yup, that's pretty much what I figured except that I can't go before work so I will have to make it a leave work early thing. Not to mention the body color dosn't really matter THAT much. If I couldn't find matching panels in the first week or 2 chances are I would pick up non-matching panels and just get the Maaco cheap ass paint job and paint it white again. so that all the parts that Maaco didn't paint would at least match for the most part.

So now I have to decide between this and a 2 dr I found for 1500. I think I will hold off until this one goes through the pipes to see how cheap I can get it.

 

[kastein]

If you don't care that much, I still have some stone white paint that matches a 96 mostly. It'd probably match that mostly as well.

Why can't you hit the JY before work? Back when it was still nice out I was going 3-4 times a week, wake up at 7, hit the JY at 7:30 to 8, leave the JY at 8:30 to 9, hit work at 9 to 9:30. Worked great. Just grab a container of fast orange or something and keep it in your cube so you aren't running around covered in grease at work - pulling body panels isn't going to get your clothes dirty if you're careful.

 

[themangeraaad]

If you don't care that much, I still have some stone white paint that matches a 96 mostly. It'd probably match that mostly as well.

Why can't you hit the JY before work? Back when it was still nice out I was going 3-4 times a week, wake up at 7, hit the JY at 7:30 to 8, leave the JY at 8:30 to 9, hit work at 9 to 9:30. Worked great. Just grab a container of fast orange or something and keep it in your cube so you aren't running around covered in grease at work - pulling body panels isn't going to get your clothes dirty if you're careful.

Eh, I have alot of stuff that goes on first thing in the morning and since my job is to support a customer I pretty much aim to be at the office from at least 8-5 which means I have to leave my house around 7:15, so JY in the AM is tough.

Plus once it gets nice out I am pretty sure the yard may stay open later so I would prefer to get to work a bit early and try to leave a bit early and "work from home". Just hit up the JY on the way back and not have to worry about staying clean incase I found somethign else I wanted to pull while I was there.

 

[kastein]

Ah, ok.

Ross - any chance you'll be around evenings next week or during the day weekend after next? I have an 8.8 that needs welding still and some TCU hackery that I need to work on and test... and beer... Can you weld it with the gears and shafts and whatnot still in it, or should I pull everything out?