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THe NAC Lots-O-Tech Thread

This may be a stupid question, but on the D44 I am building, any reason I cant run the drag link to the top of the ps steering arm, and the tie rod under it from the same hole? I plan on using hiems for my steering, so making it bolt up would be simple, but I cant find anyone running a setup like that.
Is there any issues with running it like that? other than less clearance under the tie rod? Would the bolt on the PS arm have too much stress on it from being longer and having opposing forces on either end of it?
 
I have seen that done by a few aftermarket steering setups actually... I think sheep has it on the yj?
 
I found pictures of XJ_Ranger's steering, and he has it set up that way, I just want some other opinions before I decide one way or another
 
This is what I am talking about, any input?
188335_10150095414331439_524751438_6280215_5916105_n.jpg
 
INFANATE FORCES!!!
 
why not run regular hi-steer?
I keep hearing the tie rod will hit the coils. I found some longer arms, but they only have 1 hole
or run the tie rod OTK and keep just the drag link on the hi steer arm
I might just go that route, or do an inverted T with TRE's, I havent decided yet. Just exploring my options.
 
Crossover steering is awesome. I'd take every effort to make it work if you can.
 
The problem is I have nothing else to drive, and stretching the front end would keep the jeep down for longer than a weekend.
I was thinking of going with the clayton 3 link, because with the lift in the garage, and a few friends to help, I should have no problem getting it rolling again in a weekend. I have no idea if the kit would let me stretch the front enough to be worthwhile.
 
we just but the clayton 3 link on my buddy's XJ with one tons, had to get them to build a pass side upper bc the d60 was too big and the upper hit the floor at ~4" lift. hes at a 2" stretch no problem, idk how far you wanna go.
 
Anyone hook me up with the torque value on a 96+ 4.0L valve cover bolts with the metal gasket and cover grommets/inserts?

Trying to hold off on just tightening down till the inserts seem well bottomed out. Dont want to crush a fresh expensive gasket.
 
not tight.

idk if the metal gasket is much different, but my cork gasket on my 93 was inch pounds, i dont recall the fsm having different number for different gaskets.
 
not tight.

idk if the metal gasket is much different, but my cork gasket on my 93 was inch pounds, i dont recall the fsm having different number for different gaskets.

Completely different.. but it seems idiotproof. I'll prove or disproove that soon enough.

Torque it down till the inserts bottom out.
 
i have always had those loosen up to finger tight on the 4.0's. whenever i have an 11mm or 7/16 socket in my hand and the hood open i'll tighten those down
 
By hijacking it with posts about stuff that was originally being hijacked.

DUH.

I have something to add.

Doublers are a reason to do a 440 and trans swap and miss some snow wheeling.
 
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