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My stroker thread..pics

Hey guys, what pistons are you guys using and where can I get them I was able to order a set of wh802cp60 in through work only to find that I couldn't get the rings for them. So I returned them and bought the rings for the set that I was pretty sure I could get and I was only able to get one of the wh825cp60.... I checked all of AAP warehouses and second source retailers and nothing, I even checked summit and if I paid for them today I could possibly have them by the end of the month, but the pistons are on backorder. Anyone know of where I can find these?
 
New parts and machine shop list:

46newprices.jpg
 
they want to charge you 770 bucks just for the block?

i'm only paying 850 for EVERYTHING, including balancing!

with as close to stock as you're going with this you should be under 2000
 
lol Sorry I should have explained that. That does not include head work which will be done at carquest for 160ish. I included the block work and rotating assembly stuff with the 770. recon. rods, balancing, pressing pistons onto rods and all the block work. Still high, but I know I wont have to redo it any time soon. Also its right down the road from me.
 
Here's my price breakdown of what I had done at the machine shop...

Hot tank/magnaflux block and head: $154.00
R&R cam bearings: $46.00
3 angle valve job: $186.00
Surface 6cyl HD: $76.00
Valve seat install: $96.00
Surface block: $117.00
Bore block with torque plate: $188.00
Misc labor/cut spring pads: $90.00

...was not cheap.
 
New part! Silvolite 2229 pistons, .030 oversize and dished to 28cc.

DSC00440.jpg

DSC00441.jpg


So now that I wont need the pistons in the rebuild kit I will see if they can take them out and lower the price.
 
Appreciate the offer seany, but I was hoping for pistons with the coated skirts and 60 over. Does KB make a piston that fits those conditions and requires minimal machining? If so was is the part number? I am hoping to pay no more than $300 for them....
 
seanyb505 said:
Can anyone tell me what is included in getting the bigger Chevy valves? Other than the valves is it just machining the head for them or is there more?
Click to expand...

The chevy valves have a larger stem diameter than the jeep ones, so the machine shop will machine out the guides to fit the chevy valves and install guide liners. I had it done on my Renix head when I built the stroker. No need to go 2.02" Intake just go 1.95" Intake and 1.60" Exhaust. As long as your head does not need valve seats it should not be that much to do..
 
But the machine shop should know what to do? I dont want to walk in there and get laughed at cause I think they should know what to do.

Also, which springs should I look at getting?

Would it be a bad idea just to go to a junk yard and find some valves out of a 350? Is there a specific year I should shop for?

Thanks
 
I used Manley stainless valves in the head for the Heep...1.94/1.50 with 11/32 guides....you could have the guides replaced and use 5/16 stem valves.
 
Are the 5/16 stem valves easier to come by? Im foreign to the idea of mixing and matching engines and parts (other than the 4.0 and 4.2 but thats a given) so Im looking for specific sources and/or pn's. Also how much of a difference is there between the 2.02 and the 1.94 intake valves? I mean obviously .08", but how much of an effect will this have the engine's breathing? Thanks
 
The 2.02 valves are too big...i know it seems such a small difference, but the valve head is too close to the combustion chamber wall making the inherent shrouding even worse...Even Hesco uses the smaller valve in their head...you can polish the wall some to help with the shrouding, but stick with the 1.94 valve...as for fit up...get with a performance machinist...he will have a bucket full of old chevy valves laying around...he can compare the stockers with the new valves and determine what needs to be done...I honestly can say...I took my head to the shop and picked it up complete with no minute details...I do know he used chevy springs and retainers...I had previously ported the head and when I got it back, I reblended the bowls because the seats were enlarged a bit, leaving some sharp edges...
 
Im guessing by performance machinist you mean someone other than carquest? Im talking to a guy who helped someone go with bigger valves in their stroker and he said it was only nessecary to go 1.94 on the intake as well.

One other question, for now. The rebuild kit that includes the cam Im leaning toward getting will also come with lifters. (Both are stock pieces) Since the cam will be a stock with more lift, should I get Crower cam saver lifters for 110 or will the stock replacements be ok since it is a stock cam and not an aftermarket?
 
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