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My stroker thread..pics

Since you are runing a stock cam you don't need the cam savers.
This is from Crower's cataloug "The maximum in cam lobe and lifter life. If high spring pressures or extreme and unusual operating conditions have you worried about lobe scuff and lifter wear, insist on Crower “high-lube” CamSaver lifters."

~Alex
 
The real reason I had any question is because the stock cam will have more than stock lift and I will probly go with SBC valves which will have higher pressure. It wont be extreme or unusual, just more than normal. Im thinking it might just be cheap insurance unless they are completely unnessecary and the rebuild kit parts will more than suffice.
 
I do agree with the piece of mind from having that extra oil to the face of your lifter. I forgot to mention another option is to score the lifter bore. There is a tool that your local machine shop will likley have made just for this. It is a cylinder the size of a lifter with either a carbide or tool steel to cut and a hook on the top to attach a handle to.

~Alex
 
Well good new and bad news. The good, I went to go deposit my paycheck today and saw my tax refund sitting in my account! So now I have 3k to spend on the engine. Im still trying to save money where I can though, Im not taking this as a license to use every last cent. So anyway heres what I got today:

4.2 Crank for O'Reilly's - $236.42, shipped to my house (free shipping, the closest one is 200 miles away)
Isky 133125/26 cam - $155.94 shipped
Crower Cam Saver Lifters - $104.53 shipped. I wasnt planning on getting these with a stock cam, but now that I got the isky I figured I want to do everything to not have it fail. If you get these, get them from crower not from summit, you save about $16.

And the bad news...I had to go to work so I couldnt continue my shopping spree! Now that its the weekend, Ill have to wait to make some calls until Monday to figure out where Ill be ordering the remainder of the parts!
 
Crankshaft just got here:

DSC00472.jpg

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Its the 3727 casting so it is the 4 counterweight style, and has a 2" snout. I ordered it from O'Reilleys, which has free shipping. Total was $236.42. The journals all look ok, so I dont think any machining will be in order. I do have a couple questions: What is the best way to store it, vertically or horizontally? And it came with bearings, I cannot use the main but the connecting rods bearings are ok, correct?
 
Rod bearings are the same on all 4.2 and 4.0 engines. Main bearings changed in '91 with locating tab in the center so the 4.2 main bearings will only work in the 4.2 block and in the Renix 4.0 block.
 
A couple updates: the crank requires .040 oversize bearings which I cant seem to find. Camshaft and lifters arrived today:
Isky 133125/26 cam
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A slight issue I have discovered - the online spec sheet and even Dino's cam comparison chart list this cam as having .465" exhaust valve lift, but the spec sheet that came with the cam states it as being .445", less than the intake! Will this make a difference? I picked this cam because it had the dual pattern with more lift on the exhaust side (.450" intake, .465" exhaust)

Crower cam saver lifters
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On the Crower website they were advertised as having a groove down the side which would get more oil to the cam lobes...no such groove is apparent.

On a better note, the pistons I thought had been dished to 28cc have in fact been dished to 30cc! I asked the machine shop if they were think enough to use, and they said they were. This will bring my CR down to 9.13 by using the Victor Reinz .043 head gasket. Im not sure if I had made mention before, but the block will be decked .045". If the stroker calc is correct that the deck height is 9.453", this will bring quench to a nice .0475".
 
So with that Isky basically being .45" intake, .445" exhaust, it's very similar in lift to the mopar 30 I have(.45"). What is the duration on that Isky? I just checked out the specs on Dino's site(tech specs, all the way down on the page there is a cam link). Is the 25/26 a combo of the two individual cams? The crank looks sweet. I still have to get main and rod bearings for my earlier 4-weighter. I ordered the valve springs, retainers, locks, pushrods, seals, and gasket set yesterday.
 
I just got off the phone with Nolan from Isky. He was a nice guy to talk to and helped me solve my problem. The cam I ordered was advertised .465 lift on the exhaust side and it came to my house with .445. He said no problem, just send it back and well grind you a new one and ship it to you no charge. (I have to pay for shipping there, but I dont care cause Im getting what I had originally wanted.) He even said they would throw is a couple free shirts for my trouble. Good company to deal with.

Rod bearings cam with the crank, but I cant use the mains so Im trying to find 4.0 main bearings .040 over.
 
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Bad news on the main bearings. The maximum undersize available for the 4.0 block is 30 thou. Are you sure the main journals of your crank were ground 40 thou under? That's too much.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Bad news on the main bearings. The maximum undersize available for the 4.0 block is 30 thou. Are you sure the main journals of your crank were ground 40 thou under? That's too much.
That's what I was thinking.........
 
Thats what is says on the box, and the machine shop confirmed it. I ordered a rebuild kit from Falcon Sales on ebay. I talked to a guy named Charlie, and he said he found some that were .040 oversized.
 
Rebuild kit and springs from Jeepinwi just arrived. Pics.....

5.9 springs, retainers and keepers:
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Cloyes stock replacement timing set
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Pioneer Brass Freeze plug set
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Melling Oil pump standard flow
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Perfect Circle moly piston rings
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Clevitte 77 Cam bearings
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Victor Reinz lower gasket set (rebuild kit supplier didnt carry Fel-pro for my application, and i eventually decided to save 50 dollars)
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Victor Reinz upper gasket set
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All my toys...
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All the above parts except for the springs were ordered from Falcon Global for $352.37(including shipping + tax cause they shipped inside Florida)

Im still trying to decide if I should get a thinner head gasket to get quench from .057 to .048" and raise my CR from 8.98 to 9.13. I did find a place that had the Mopar Performance P4529242 HG, but they could not verify if it was thinner than stock so they just said it was a stock replacement. I read on the Yahoo strokers group that it was .043" thick when compressed. Can anyone back this up?
 
I ordered the gasket tear down kit from Mopartsracing.com and it comes with the p4529242 HG, which is spec'd @ .043". I still need the pistons, rings, cam, rod, and main bearings, ARP head and rod bolts, the same cloyes timing set you got and the same standard melling oil pump. How much did Jeepinwi charge for them springs?
 
Thanks, everywhere Ive called just tells me its a stock replacement part so I wanted to make sure it wasnt .052" before I ordered it.
Cant go wrong with 2229 silvos for pistons. I thought you had already bought a mopar 30 cam? He gave me a great deal on them, 150 shipped for springs, retainers and keepers. Mopar Direct Connection would have charged 233 for the parts alone without shipping.
 
I meant the cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, but got lazy. My bro works at Advanced Auto so he found some h802cp20(.020 over) and the premium rings for around $200 before his 20% discount. My plan right now is to get the head done and buy all those other parts. I've got a little less than two months(my other bro is coming back on 3-weeks leave in May). I have about 5-6 weeks to get the pistons, so maybe we'll see where KB is at with those pistons by then. I'd prefer to use the 4.0 rod even though I already have recon'd 4.2 rods that my bro got and didn't get to use because the Navy put his @$$ on them cursed oil terminals in the gulf(what the war is really about).
 
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