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1991 Comanche Build(AKA the POS Jeep)

the 440MJ is gone now too?!Ross are you the only nac member with a crawler still?

Yup, sold to a guy in NY. I had a lot of reasons for selling it.

Thinking I am going to just go ahead and link the rear from the beginning to eliminate redoing it in the future...That being said I have a ton of questions. I am asking over here on NAXJA instead of Pirate because I want to try to bring more tech and knowledge over here rather than people jumping ship to NAXJA when their builds get more complex.

I've been reading a bunch on double triangulated vs single triangulated links. Single seems out of the question because of rear steer imposed by keeping the lower links straight. What degree on the lower eliminates rear steer or at least mitigates it? Would 10° on both sides with a total of 20° for lower be enough to make it manageable? Thinking a little out of the box on my rear link set-up but I don't want to spoil it so I am keeping some of the info a little secret...Below are some links to what I am talking about for those that might be viewing but don't know what I am talking about...

Rear-steer due to single-triangulated links:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/rear-steer.htm

I would honestly think about what your goals are for the rig. Are you going to try any racing? Strictly crawling? Street driving?

Obviously a double triangulated 4 link is the "ideal" suspension setup for a variety of reasons but many times you're limited by the vehicle you're trying to set it up on. If you're hacking the back of the frame off, I would strongly consider trying to use it. Not sure what you have up your sleeve, but if this is a trail rig/crawler, I don't see a bit of rear steer having a detrimental effect.
 
i linked the back of mine, with just the uppers being triangulated. my upper links are just about parallel with the ground and my lower links are right around 10 degrees. using 14" travel coilovers i have very minimal rear steer. i was also worried about having it but once i took out on the trail, it surprised me with how little it had.
 
Looking good. In to see where it goes.
 
Finished up the bottom of the passenger door today.

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Cut out the driverside today, went a little better than the passenger side...

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Bottom of the door after the cut for those that are curious...I had no issues on the passenger side, but I cut the bottom of the manual window cable so now the window lost the last two inches of travel...stupid. Still goes up and down but I need to put a stop on the track to keep it from getting bound up.

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Thanks to my buddy Ryan for helping out today, he is practicing welding on non-critical things like rocker tube end caps.

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Looks good.

Shit happens, don't worry about it.

Did you happen to tilt the 2x6 down and out to prevent water buildup? Probably not a huge concern but I did it on my old MJ. Probably didn't make a difference.
 
I actually made them both level, after I welded the passenger side my buddy said in hind sight we should've...so I just leveled the driver side to match.
 
I've been reading a lot about benders and such and settled on a JD2 Model 32. The question I have for you guys is what the best most versatile die set would be? I am going to be building my cage out of 1.75" .188 wall so obviously I want a 1.75" die. That being said what radius is best suited for an XJ build to follow the body lines? My A-pillar is going to be external and run right above the rain gutter to the back of the cab. JD2 sells the die sets in 5.5", 6.5" and 7.5" radius from center line. Which die set would you suggest? I am thinking 5.5" to allow tighter turns around the cab lines, let me know if I'm dumb.
 
Get the tightest possible. You can always cheat and make a wider bend with a small die, but you can't make a smaller bend with a big die ;)

Also, any reason for .188 wall? Seems most usually use .120, including myself and I've tested it thoroughly.
 
I was thinking since I don't have a C or D pillar the .188 wall would make up the strength difference. I only left enough of the 2x6" tube in the back for one tube, otherwise I was considering doubling the tube at the back of the cab. I haven't started drawing up plans yet, just all in my head as of yet.
 
So I was only able to get out in the garage for about an hour or so today but got a little accomplished...took my time to make sure it actually adds strength.

Used a wire wheel to get the underbody coating off.
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Mocked it up to see where things needed to be extra clean.
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Paint penned it to show where it needed extra attention.
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Hit it with a flap disk and cut off the LCA bracket.
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Tacked up...all and all its a good fit.
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Been in the garage with cardboard all day trying to figure out how to plate the sides...the MJ frame flares out a couple inches and it is screwing with all my ideas...Didn't get anything accomplished but for some reason I welded a piece of 1/4" plate to it that I now have to cut off.
 
I would have absolutely bought those stiffeners for $300.

Making the ones I used out of 3x3x3/16 was a PITA. Never mind drilling all of the weld holes in them.
 
i bought and installed a set of those stiffeners. the fitment was garbage. i worked with the company on how to change them so hopefully they updated the laser program.
 
i bought and installed a set of those stiffeners. the fitment was garbage. i worked with the company on how to change them so hopefully they updated the laser program.

would you buy them again if they were changed? I'm on the fence whether to get them or not. hopefullly they fit better
 
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