What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Got some boxes of goodies dropped off from the brown truck this week but still waiting on boomerang shackles and rear shocks. :eeks1:

FAWESOME!!!!!!!!!!

Jeffro, I stole your drivers side tail light. El Presidente has some cool blacked out lenses for ya. If not, I'll find a regular one.

Fred said:

Jeffro, I stole your drivers side tail light. El Presidente has some cool blacked out lenses for ya. If not, I'll find a regular one.

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If it were just about anyone else I'd be pissed but you're good, however.

To anyone else that's at the Flores Garage:

DO NOT TAKE ANY PARTS OFF OF OR OUT OF MY BLACK RIG. I'M GOING TO BE USING QUITE A BIT OF THAT STUFF ON THE NEW RIG. I'LL MAKE A LIST OF WHATS FOR SALE WHEN I'M DONE BUILDING THE NEW RIG.

planefixer said:

If it were just about anyone else I'd be pissed but you're good, however.

To anyone else that's at the Flores Garage:

DO NOT TAKE ANY PARTS OFF OF OR OUT OF MY BLACK RIG. I'M GOING TO BE USING QUITE A BIT OF THAT STUFF ON THE NEW RIG. I'LL MAKE A LIST OF WHATS FOR SALE WHEN I'M DONE BUILDING THE NEW RIG.

Click to expand...

Like the hanger version 2.0

For those of you out there that have MOPAR Power. I have found this little goody for you to think about.

Will fit both the 5.2 and the 5.9 engines and looks exactly like this:
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Pretty interesting, eh?

If all goes well, I see one of these on the Wife's ZJ in less than a year... She would let me install a compressor as she is convinced that she will collect speeding tickets. She claims that my rig is "Too Fun to Drive"...

Mmmmmmm....6-pack injection. Secksi.

No doubt. And beyond it's undeniable great looks, performance.... From what I have been reading, MOPAR has been strangling the begeebus out of both the 5.2 and the 5.9 for decades.

All in the name of emission control... Personally, I do not see why an engine can not run both well and clean. As long as you have the mixture right, it will pass.

In fact, I had an interesting conversation with a fine fellow in the Emission Compliance Office up in Denver a couple of weeks ago. What he said was that as long as the tail pipe gasses meet spec, the State must pass the vehicle. Regardless of what it looks like under the hood. They just put the vehicle down as a "Pass with Advisement".

"Advisement" meaning that it does not look right but.... The numbers are good.

BTW, from what I have learned about this manifold, it is a gateway to convert an engine to fuel injection.

Interesting, eh? Opens up all sorts of ideas.

Where do I get that manifold? That would look pretty sitting on my 5.9

Shoot me a PM...

Re: Re: What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Will do

Chipped away at the headlight rewire project. As of today, the wiring loom is complete, the relay box is installed and wired. All that is left to do is finish the harness run and button the front end back up. It is sort of in pieces at the moment to make it easier to run the wire...

Digger, PM responded to.

For those that may be interested in the six pack manifold, here is a complete description:

Complete mechanical progressive 6bbl EFI Intake systems based on available aftermarket manifolds. Each kit comes fully assembled with three billet throttle bodies, adjustable progressive linkage, fuel rails with billet mounts, IAC, TPS, Fuel rail crossover (AN-8), billet throttle cable mount, and one of three air cleaner options: Billet adaptors for the use of all stock 6bbl air cleaners (air grabber, shaker etc.) A flat fiberglass base for the use of factory A?C systems and the stock 6bbl element and top, or a minimalist polished and anodized flat billet air cleaner with K&N element for tight fitting applications. Please call or email for additional ordering requirements (hp target, head port style/size, Hemi applications etc.)

OK. IT is simply amazing how easy it is to get battery voltage at the headlights. All you have to do is eliminate the factory connections...

Have tested the system and will finish putting it back together tomorrow. If I can.

I am, finally, going to listen to both my Physician and my Wife. They yell at me for doing to much at a time. Apparently, every time I get up on my feet, I go charging off to "get things done" which promptly knocks me back down. So..... I guess it will take 2 days to run a harness and replace the grill, headlights running lights and the headlight doors.

Don't you just hate it when your Wife is right?

No kidding, right? Would NEVER live it down.

Besides, she already knows as I stopped after first pulling the grill/lights out, then the next day, I made the harness. Next day... Well, you get the idea.

It appears that my choice is everything taking for nearly ever to get done or..... Put myself back into Hospital.

Given that I have sworn to NEVER see the insides of yet another ER, the choice is fairly easy.

I mean, it took me a month to install the fender flares. 15 minutes at a time, every other day....

But, this is my reality and, now that I am backed into a corner, it must needs be accepted as such.

But, I do not have to like it and, I do not..................

Spent the day at Flores'. Getting one step closer. Got the 8.8 and new springs installed. Flores is wrapping up the motor install.

A little Prostreet action.

Forgot to mention this:

STOCK
Voltage at Battery, 12.16 Vdc.
Voltage at Headlight 8.5 Vdc at Passenger side.

WITH RELAYS
Voltage at Battery, 12.16 Vdc.
Voltage at Headlight 12.09 Vdc at Passenger side.

When deciding on how to handle the grounds, I measured the resistance of the stock connector location to the battery post. It read 0.04 Ohms. So, rather than run discrete ground wires, I used the stock connector via a 1/4" spade on the new connectors ground location.

It should be noted that this value was at the Driver's side (worst case) connector, the Passenger side value was 0 Ohms... At least Chryco got something right........

The wiring is done as follows:
1) A 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse block.
2) 14 gauge wire from fuse block to relays.
3) 16 gauge wire from relays to headlight connector.

Now before anyone jumps up and says that the wires are too small, the circuits carry less than 10 Amps and the run is less than 10 foot. The PDC holds a single 10 Amp fuse for the stock wiring and that has a considerably longer run...

I installed discrete fuses for the low/high beams. Once I get around to measuring the actual beam currents, appropriately sized fuses will be installed. Plus, once the LED headlights go in the fuses will need be changed again...

And yes, my battery is down from it not being driven much. Will toss it on the charger.

I dood this:



It's still a tired engine with bad compression on two cylinders, blows oil, and needs a rear main seal, but the T-body does make it run stronger. It also seems to run smoother, aided by losing a vacuum leak, and fixing the exhaust.

hmm, how much

$100. The idle is still a tad low.