cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Remember it's spring loaded. You don't wanna be chasing small parts all over the garage upon disassembly.
ZJ disk to Chrysler 8.25 question
- Thread starter summitlt
- Start date
adrenalinepirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood,CO
About to do this. Have the backing plates to cailpers and linrs. What year of prop. value should I be looking for?
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
94 to 98 Grand Cherokee with rear disc brakes.
DeftwillP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Round Rock TX
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I didn't.
Under the black plastic cap is a bleeder valve that is very similar to the brake bleeder. Unscrew the large nut that holds the spring in place and then bleed it. I used a power bleeder from H.F.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
No need to open up the bolt holes, just the center hole. I used 2 grinding drums on a dremel and it took maybe 10 minutes. It's great that the libby brackets fit without grinding but I couldn't find any for 6+ months, while I had 8 or 9 ZJs with discs to pick over any time I went to the yard.
As noted you WILL need the studs from the flange that the brake backing plate bolts to. The disc ones are longer than the drum ones and you won't get sufficient thread engagement if you use the stock studs. They are splined and pound out easily, make sure you don't screw up the threads pounding the ones out of the donor axle. I used a punch on the center of the end of the stud so that I didn't have to be quite as careful.
As noted you WILL need the studs from the flange that the brake backing plate bolts to. The disc ones are longer than the drum ones and you won't get sufficient thread engagement if you use the stock studs. They are splined and pound out easily, make sure you don't screw up the threads pounding the ones out of the donor axle. I used a punch on the center of the end of the stud so that I didn't have to be quite as careful.
So, I've upgraded to a WJ master, ZJ prop valve, and ZJ rear disks. I originally had a problem with air in the lines, but I used a power bleeder to purge them. I think all the air has been removed, as the pedal is rock hard when the engine is not running. However, the brakes are soft when the engine is running/boost is on. It seems to stop okay (I can't tell if better/worse, since I haven't driven it in a few months), but I absolutely can not lock up the brakes, even on wet pavement (I used to be able to lock up the rears. Should I be expecting better/worse than this?
