ZJ D44 problems...solutions?

Jeff 98XJ WI

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Butternut, WI
Hey all, my friend has a ZJ with the aluminum D44 and she has experienced quite a bit of noise from the rear end. She was told it was a pinion bearing, so she had that replaced at a shop. It seemed to quiet down for awhile, but then the noise returned. I drove in it yesterday and the gear noise is BAD. Starts right as the vehicle begins to move. So, what are her options for fixing this? Would a TJ D44 rear be a good choice for a direct swap? Where can one find one of these? What is the cost? She was quoted something like $900 for new gears to be installed and I couldn't tell you if the problem is really the gear set or the setup of the gear set or the bearings or a bent housing or what. All I know is that general consensus is that the Al. D44 is junk and hers has problems. Thanks for any input. Jeff
 
Maybe a 8.8 would be a good option... Tons of gear ratios [stock] stronger, less expensive, and tons of aftermarket support [if that applies to her].

Will.
 
I'd definitely toss the AlD44. The 8.8 swap is pretty popular with the ZJ builders. A TJ D44 MIGHT be close to a bolt in but I'm not sure. Look up "Project Phoenix" on Mallcrawlin.com or NAGCA.com. I think he used a TJ D44 in the back of his and gave some pretty good details about the swap.

Even a (gasp!) D35 from a ZJ may be better if your friend doesn't wheel.
 
She doesn't need anything special. Just something for a daily driver that will work and not be noisey nor super expensive. Hers is a loaded Grand with a v-8, but I don't think it is the 5.9L. I don't even know if it has ABS, but I imagine it does. I'm pretty sure its got the full time t-case. Jeff
 
Like people are saying the Ford 8.8 is extremely common with the ZJ builders as are long arm conversions. For a dd, I'd suggest a cheap and bolt in dana 35. The dana 35, although not a strong axle, is a better bet than the aluminum 44 found in the ZJ. The aluminum 44 doesn't have much aftermarket support and is different in some respects to the plain jane 44.


Check on car-parts.com for a yard that has a 93-98' dana 35 in your area. You should be able to find 1 for under $300 complete ready to bolt in, that's at least what the 8.8's go for I've seen in the Explorers in the same years 95-98'.
While you're at it, it would be a good time to upgrade to disc brakes if she has drums right now. I believe all ZJs from 96-98' had them and were stardard on Limited models starting in 95'.

Troy
 
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xjj33p3r said:
Wouldn't it be a concern to put in a d35 behind a v8?

It should hold up with street tires on a dd. You are only talking about 35 hp difference between the 6 and 8 anyways. When you start locking a dana 35 and add 33'+ tires, and wheel it do you have problems with them. It should be fine on the street.

Troy
 
Was hers part of the factory re-call ? did it get taken in ?Might check it out before spending $$$
Wayne
 
The TJ dana 44 isn't a direct bolt in swap, but pretty close. I got that answer from a few people on Pirate4x4.com You might want to check over there as well.
 
Had the same problem with a 98 4.0 D35.
Called a parts yard and got a guaranteed D35 to replace it for $400 - problem solved.
A daily driver doesn't need to upgrade - just fix the thing and drive it.
 
Honestly.... I know that im gonna get flammed for this but.... There really is nothing wrong with the Al-44 when it has been set up properly...especially for a street vehicle.. The only thing is that most owners are not educated on these rear ends... Over the last few years I have rebuilt probibly 300 of them, thanks to a local used car wholesaler... The AL-44 uses all the same bearing as the 8.8 ford, not the D-44... The bummer is that the gears are pretty much a dealer only item. I always rebuilt the rear with pinion, carrier, and axle bearings.. The biggest problem was that the carrier bearings had way too much preload from the factory, causing premature failure.. You should shop around some of the shops in your area that rebuild rear ends, but here in So Cal... $900.00 is what the dealer was charging to rebuild one of these, with out gears... Now with that said, if I had a grand and was taking it on the trails regularly... No I would get rid of that housing and convert a TJ 44 or 8.8 into the rear... I hope this helps...
 
MJ_Chubs said:
I'd definitely toss the AlD44. The 8.8 swap is pretty popular with the ZJ builders. A TJ D44 MIGHT be close to a bolt in but I'm not sure. Look up "Project Phoenix" on Mallcrawlin.com or NAGCA.com. I think he used a TJ D44 in the back of his and gave some pretty good details about the swap.

Even a (gasp!) D35 from a ZJ may be better if your friend doesn't wheel.

The TJ D44 is NOT even close in bracket allignment or geometry. BTDT. LCA mounts are close, uppers - not even.

IMO the 8.8 would be the more economical swap, given that you have to do bracket surgery. A disc brake TJ D44 will command high dollar from the salvage guys.

Bob
 
Clean-RC said:
Honestly.... I know that im gonna get flammed for this but.... There really is nothing wrong with the Al-44 when it has been set up properly...especially for a street vehicle.. The only thing is that most owners are not educated on these rear ends... Over the last few years I have rebuilt probibly 300 of them, thanks to a local used car wholesaler... The AL-44 uses all the same bearing as the 8.8 ford, not the D-44... The bummer is that the gears are pretty much a dealer only item. I always rebuilt the rear with pinion, carrier, and axle bearings.. The biggest problem was that the carrier bearings had way too much preload from the factory, causing premature failure.. You should shop around some of the shops in your area that rebuild rear ends, but here in So Cal... $900.00 is what the dealer was charging to rebuild one of these, with out gears... Now with that said, if I had a grand and was taking it on the trails regularly... No I would get rid of that housing and convert a TJ 44 or 8.8 into the rear... I hope this helps...

I'm in total agreeement with you. I too have overhauled hundreds of these and once setup properly, I've never seen an ongoing issue. They developed a bad rep from the problems they had on initial setup. Now, the parts availability is a problem if you want to do gears, lockers, but otherwise I would have no problem using one. I have one that I inteneded to swap into my TJ to replace the 35, but the aforementioned bracket differences stopped me along with the lack of aftermarket support.
 
Rock Yacht said:
The TJ D44 is NOT even close in bracket allignment or geometry. BTDT. LCA mounts are close, uppers - not even.

IMO the 8.8 would be the more economical swap, given that you have to do bracket surgery. A disc brake TJ D44 will command high dollar from the salvage guys.

Bob

Agreed, TJ dana 44's go for $1-1.2K on Pirate4x4 and other boards, on ebay as well. Explorers are so plentiful, so it would be best to get a 8.8 from it 95'+ with nice disc brakes and have the links welded to it, you'd have a bullet proof rear axle then for a dd. This is also stronger than the dana 44 used in the TJ with axle tubes not much bigger than the dana 35 tubes. The XJ 44 had 2.75" tubes so they are a little beefier.

All being said this is a dd, so just get a dana 35 and bolt it in. You should be able to get 1 for $300 or so, shop around on car-parts.com or spend about the same amound and then some more to have the bracketry bolted onto a 8.8 Your $, so you make the call.

Troy
 
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Troy... you know how much everything costs... what can I expect to pay for a '98 Mercedes Benz E300 3.0 liter turbodiesel engine & automatic transmission coupled to a divorced Ford NP205? I'd need all the computer & wiring stuff along with it.
 
Clean-RC said:
Honestly.... I know that im gonna get flammed for this but.... There really is nothing wrong with the Al-44 when it has been set up properly...especially for a street vehicle..
The biggest problem was that the carrier bearings had way too much preload from the factory, causing premature failure..

What you are saying is that most can be fixed with a new set of bearings and
a little less shim on either side.
Seems simple and a lot cheaper than the alternatives.
 
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