crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
Finished that would be my ideal Jeep 

Guess I stuck to my word. The reasons above are why I decided to go 97+. The upgraded interior is much more comfortable, and the road noise is minimal. I actually look forward to driving this thing out of state for some wheeling.However, after the Firedrill run I wish I had a nice stereo, carpet, and the ability to do 70mph without the fear of shrapnel coming through the floor board (< I probably should look at into that).
Still sticking to the plan for the most part.Lots of good advice so far.
Well ever since creating this thread, I've been tossing ideas around of my 'ideal' XJ. I've learned some things with my current Jeep over the past five years. What works, what doesn't work, what's essential, and what's a waste of money.
So here's my 'ideal' XJ.
1991-1996 4 Door: Love the look of a two door, hate the functionality. You can still find an HO with low miles for a decent price. Plus replacement parts are very easy to come by. I'd change this to 97+. Part of my reason for the 91-96 was availability of body parts. After thinking about it, proper armor will protect most of the consumable pieces (tail lights, header panel, doors, etc).
4.0L HO: Keep it stock, and reliable. Bonus of the HO is it has a rev-limiter!Agreed.
AX15: Personal choice here, but I like the control and simplicity of the manual transmission. After driving autos all day on the Firedrill run, I came to realize I love my manual both on and off road. I miss my five speed so much. The auto is so sluggish, and robs power. I like the control of the five speed. One thing I guess I took for granted was the ability to "clutch" it on turns/obstacles. Just push in the clutch and you roll back. Who knows, maybe the Nail Salon will get a NV3550 swap in the future.
NP231/Atlas: I'd go for the 231 stock. Great aftermarket, and stupidly simple. However, with a manual gearing is essential off road (especially in rocks), and I would strongly consider an Atlas 5.0 or 4.3 (leaning toward 4.3). The Teraflex Tera Low for the 231 is great (I love mine), but it's still a chain driven case. I would consider an Atlas a worthwhile investment that would out last the rig. Agreed.
Dana 30: The Dirty Thirty is highly under rated in my opinion. It's a tough little axle. I would toss some 4.56's in it, a full case locker, and maybe a Currie steering setup. Stock 297 shafts, and some fresh Spicer u-joints seem to work well. I wouldn't get too elaborate other wise you may as well build a HP44. Agreed.
Dana 44: If you can find one for a decent price, I'd toss an XJ 44 in the rear. I wouldn't think twice about running a 29 spline 8.25 though. 4.56 gears, full case locker, and maybe some disc brakes (making sure to keep the e-brake functional!) and your set. Of course a RuffStuff cover would be added to both diffs. I'd have to say Ford 8.8. I was never impressed by my old 44. It seemed to have little axle tubes, and I was never happy with the result of my disc swap. An 8.8 comes with 3.25" axle tubes, factory discs, and 31 spline shafts. I feel it's a better axle, but takes more work in getting it under an XJ.
Springs: 3.5-4.5" springs. Coils in the front, spring/shackle combo in the rear. Choose your make. Agreed.
Arms: The simple solution would be run some aftermarket short arms. At 3-4" you don't need long arms, and I think they are over rated anyways. If I had a lot of time on my hands, I'd look into fabbing up a mid-arm 3-link at 4.5". Agreed.
Shocks: Bilstein or FOX. I like the new Bilstein 5160's, but in reality 5125's are an excellent choice for the PNW. How often do you hear your shocks boiling? Agreed.
Tires/Wheels: 33x12.5 tires on 15x8 wheels. Personally, I think most radial MT's perform about the same. Which brand are you loyal to, or which tires are the 'cool kids' running? For some of the tread patterns I'd look at getting them siped for winter performance. I think a 33x12.5 will get the job done 90% of the time, and save you and the rig the extra stress in the long run. For rims, I'd consider the tried and true steelies, or go with an aluminum for the extra style points (be different). Unless I'm running bias plys or sub 5psi consistently, I don't think bead locks are worth the money. A radial flexes pretty well aired down, and they tend to hold a bead pretty well. Agreed. I hope my theory pans out.
Armor: Bumpers would be low profile/light weight (.120 wall). I'd like to have the winch recessed behind the front cross member. Maximize approach/departure angles. Rocker replacements would be made for additional clearance. A full belly pan would be used, and I'd try to maximize belly height. A tank skid would be mandatory. I'd also consider some quarter panel protection and door armor for the tighter ORV areas. Agreed.
Cage: I think a cage is essential in a rig that gets wheeled. A simple flop can easily turn into a roll over. I've pushed my luck too many times over the years. As much sense as a Hybrid cage makes, I'd probably go with a standard internal cage like the T&J. Add some triangulation, and you're golden. Agreed.
Winch: WARN. Line speed is crucial. I love my XP, but I'd also consider a TI or 8274. Agreed.
Misc: Keep the carpet and creature comforts. It's what makes an XJ an XJ. I'd probably stick with a stock quiet exhaust. A pair of Light Force's on the front bumper are nice for country roads. On board air would likely be CO2. Electric compressors haven't really impressed me from what I've seen, and I'd keep the stock compressor for AC duty. Agreed.
Overall, I don't want a trailer queen. I want a reliable rig, that can be driven every day, and travel cross country in comfort. I don't have any real interest in hanging out in Crushers or running the Busy Wild every weekend. My 'ideal' XJ would be capable of running almost any trail in the Northwest, and driving home comfortably after.
:dunno:
You don't feel 4.88's are too deep for 33's on a street driven rig? Seems like it might be a bit buzzy at highway speed.Front axle: 4.88
Rear axle: 4.88
You don't feel 4.88's are too deep for 33's on a street driven rig? Seems like it might be a bit buzzy at highway speed.
Also, do you think you'll be happy with a 10.5 tire? I'd imagine a 10.5 would work fine in pretty much all conditions, but might lack floatation in the snow. I guess the trade off for better handling, less weight, and better mileage might be worth it.
well.. times have changed..97+ XJ 4door.. 4bt Cummins, atlas, Rockjock 60s, ARB's, 5.38s, 4 link front and rear, Coilovers, 37-39.5" Maxxis Creepy crawlers, Dual Warn 9.0RCs (front and rear) Hybrid cage, Front to back frame stiffeners, pink fuzzy dice on the rear view..
Now time for Red-ZJ-2.0 (in progress)-Thoseguys Full hybrid cage (1.75" tube)
-Scottbyefab Front tube bumper (1.75" tube)
-Warn Powerplant 9.5
-Thoseguys Rocker cutouts
-Midframe stiffening
-Clayton Radius front/4link rear
-Clean, strong, Good running Engine/trans
-Bells and whistles (Remote start/LED lighting/Butt warmers/"bumpindatrunk"
Phase 3.0 (Who knows when) Will be something along the lines of06' HP60 35 spline
Artec Ind. Truss
Grizzly locker & 5.38
Full hi-steer with Machined Knuckles, 1.5" DOM & 7/8" heims & PSC Hydro assist
06' Sterling 10.50"
Artec Ind. Truss setup for Triangulated 4 link
Grizzly locker & 5.38
Atlas 4 speed (2.0:1, 2.72:1 & 5.44:1)
Clayton 3 link front/4link rear stretched to 112"-114" range
FOA Coilovers (14'' 2.5" w/Res) shock hoops
Plating the front end for Hoops, Tied together
19 gallon RCI fuel cell in an Artec Ind. Fuel cell mount (Stretch requires ditching factory tank)
17" wheels & 37-40" Craigslist tires
For me, I'm building my dream rig.. :thumbup:Rebuilt 5.9 with Headwork/cam/exhaust (Somewhere around 350hp)
46RE with Transgo Shiftkit, Deep trans pan
Currie anti-rocks front and rear
40" Kevlars on Aluminum Beadlocks
Rear tube bumper
Don't narrow a full width axle it just causes scrub radius problems and ball joint and bearing fatigue. You can get down to 76" wide on uncut axles.