I didn't know if most people are taking measurements off their D30 and installing the mounts that way. I was thinking of making a jig and doing it that way, either that or actually mounting the axle in place and fitting the brackets, then tack welding.
Would like more input on the off-center issue with the waggy width D44's though.
As Bill (RCman) and I have stated, there is no right/wrong way or any rulebook that prohibits you from setting this axle up anyway you would like. The pinion yoke and driver side UCA can get relatively close together when swapping in a narrowed HP44, so that's something to look out for in relation to clearance issues. This is especially the case with TNT's Y-Link Long arms, because the LCA's have the bend pushing them more towards the middle of the vehicle.
I based the bracketry location on my HP44 off the measurements of a stock Dana 30. However, I did increase the distance between the coil perches, by moving them outboard .5" on each side (total of 1" altogether.) I wish I had the chance to move the perches back 2", but my mounts are already welded, and I don't feel like grinding on this housing anymore.
I'll share what I did with mine, but it might take a few times to understand it. It's hard to picture this stuff without having a physical example in front of you, as well as a tape measure to double check everything. To begin with, I found my axle was .75" off center to the passenger side.
I narrowed my short side to Wagoneer width, and my long side to Rubicon width. Because the Rubicon shaft is slightly shorter, I was able to remove an extra .25" off the long side. This took me from being .75" off center, to .5" off center. Follow?
Next, I left my driver coil perch flush against the truss, and moved my passenger coil perch outboard a full 1". This gave me the extra .5" on each side I was looking for. It was recommended to me by several members to space them out like this. Not only does it help with compression, but also with clearance between the track bar mount and driver coil spring.
I then took my LCA mounts and spaced them apart 30" from inside edge to inside edge. To make sure they were equal distance on both sides, I placed each mount 15" from the center of the housing. (2 x 15" = 30") Stock distance on the Dana 30 is slightly less than 30".
Lastly, the truss. I kept it where it's supposed to be, and I really didn't feel like modifying it. With all the steps I followed above, my UCA mounts were slightly different from their stock location on the Dana 30. Had the UCA mounts not been welded on from the get-go, I probably wouldn't have encountered this difference. TNT might be able to ship the truss and mounts separately, instead of attaching them at the time of your order. If so, this would allow you to place the mounts where you want them. I didn't have this option.
With everything I just explained, I knew my UCA mounts were going to be slightly different than stock. Because they were, my passenger side UCA was going to need modification. With the difference, I altered the angle in which the arm connects to the bushing on the truss. (in English, the bolt holes on my arm didn't line up with the bushings holes in the truss) However, the bushings of the truss required a larger bolt than what I was using prior on my Dana 30. To utilize the bigger bolt, I had to enlarge the bolt holes on the arm. From here, I simply drilled the holes to match up to the holes on the truss bushing.
Still with me?
That's how I did mine. Like I mentioned earlier, it's hard to understand all this without having the pieces to the puzzle directly in front of you. I wasn't fully aware of what this off center issue was until I needed to figure out a way around it. I haven't completely finished my housing yet. When I do, I plan to document everything in a detailed write up.
Scott
