xj drivelines

[GROCERYGETTER]

does any one know if you could modify a front xj drive line to work with a rear sye kit?

 

[yuppiexj]

:twak: Doesn't the front already have the slip joint in the driveshaft?


nevermind I thought you wanted to put a sye on the front yoke of your t-case...
madmaxj is right...I am going to use my spare front as a rear when I finally install my sye

 

[GROCERYGETTER]

yea the front has a cv and a slip and the same u joints could you just have it lenthened? and use it on the rear

 

[ChuckD]

does any one know if you could modify a front xj drive line to work with a rear sye kit?

I have read it might work with an AT and a HD SYE conversion. I tried it on my MT and the front DS was too short. I even tried my wifes driveshaft, hers is an AT, which has a longer front driveshaft.

 

[BrettM]

the answer is yes, you may need to get it lengthened or shortened though

 

[Nay]

I do not consider the front driveshaft to be rated for a rear application. It is a substantially smaller tube diameter than a typical rear SYE/double cardan application. I wouldn't spend the $$$ on lengthening/shortening only to have the shaft lack the rigidity for a rear wheel drive application. Remember, the rear wheels can get 100% of the torque...the fronts never do...

Nay

 

[BrettM]

true, but it could be a good trail spare, or adequate for a "GROCERYGETTER", that is his name after all.

 

[GROCERYGETTER]

thats just what guys at work call my jeep that dont understand fourwheeling

 

[TOZOVR]

I have an AT front shaft for sale in FS.....needs u-joints

 

[sarvermr]

I do not consider the front driveshaft to be rated for a rear application. It is a substantially smaller tube diameter than a typical rear SYE/double cardan application. I wouldn't spend the $$$ on lengthening/shortening only to have the shaft lack the rigidity for a rear wheel drive application. Remember, the rear wheels can get 100% of the torque...the fronts never do...

Nay

i've got about 7,000 miles on mine. it cost me about $50 for the shaft and lengthening it too. if it breaks i'll buy another.

matthew

 

[small pederson]

has anyone ever found a driveshaft from another vehicle that works for a lifted xj

 

[xjaddiction]

I've done it until I could buy a new rear shaft. I have the HD SYE, 7 inches of lift and a 2000 model 8.25. It drove fine on the road, but I was afraid to run it off-road. It was a little short for that.

I carry my stock front for a spare now. Nice to know I can use it in the front or the back.

Greddy

 

[OT]

I've done it until I could buy a new rear shaft. I have the HD SYE, 7 inches of lift and a 2000 model 8.25. It drove fine on the road, but I was afraid to run it off-road. It was a little short for that.

I carry my stock front for a spare now. Nice to know I can use it in the front or the back.

Greddy

So, on yours, instead of a HD SYE, a hack n tap would make the length about right, ya think?

 

[ChuckD]

Doesn't the hack-n-tap use a different flange?

 

[OT]

Doesn't the hack-n-tap use a different flange?

I dunno.

How about just the slip yoke bolted to the output shaft on a 242 with a front DS put on? I'm trying not to spend more than I have to on the 242. I'll be going to a built 231 or Atlas II sometime this year.

 

[basalt51]

Doesn't the hack-n-tap use a different flange?

YES, I was confused how you all were using the front shaft on the rear when the front uses 8mm bolts and my rear flange (RE hackntap) uses ~1/2" bolts

 

[ChuckD]

I dunno.

How about just the slip yoke bolted to the output shaft on a 242 with a front DS put on? I'm trying not to spend more than I have to on the 242. I'll be going to a built 231 or Atlas II sometime this year.

I would just stick with an extended SY, 1" case drop and point your pinion slightly up. At least until your ready for the Atlas, but if I was going to build a tcase up I would at least get a Dana 300 or go with the nearly bolt on 241 Rubicon Rock-Trac.

 

[OT]

I would just stick with an extended SY, 1" case drop and point your pinion slightly up. At least until your ready for the Atlas, but if I was going to build a tcase up I would at least get a Dana 300 or go with the nearly bolt on 241 Rubicon Rock-Trac.

Sorry for the hijack.

I just don't know how much I trust my slip yoke now. Due to the recent high lift I had to grind some of the yoke away for the ujoint bearing cups to have clearance. This is with a 1" tcase drop. It's not a DD but how weak is the stock slip yoke without the clearancing? This would seem to be my new weak link in the drive train now. I'm not a gas pedal junkie, do ya think it'll hold up for a while?

 

[ChuckD]

Spline engagement is very important. I know, I have twisted the splines in a SY before. My tail shaft still held up. Then maybe if you can find a longer driveshaft to help get you by or lower the lift a bit until you can get the Tcase you really want.